89 Marathon Electric to 23 Vanny

Harperhogue1

Hello Everybody,
I'm new around here. I've been snooping around all of the knowledge on here and thought I would say thanks to everyone for inspiring me to initiate my first build. So without further delay...

Cart is an 89 Marathon electric. (Was anyway) Started off by locating an ME29 rear end which was a challenge in itself. Had no driven clutch. Tore out electric equipment and rear end. Installed ME29 with 4.5" lift. Built risers for front and custom shock mounts all around. Re-worked brake mechanism and installed newer model brake cables to fit ME29 Brake backings. Brakes good to go. Installed new tires. Rolling chassis complete.

Ordered new Vanguard 23hp 386447-0195-G1 with no governor and 20 Amp alternator. Installed rev kit with timing advance key. Installed new EZ-GO driven clutch on rear end and new Comet 780 drive onto vanny.

Built engine cradle. Got everything lined up and mounted. Built battery cradle, wiring harness and fired up engine. Started right up and sounds great. But... this is where my troubles begin.

Engine has no throttle control bracket so I have that ordered and will have to figure out how to tie all of it to pedal once it arrives. Stock vanny carb has tiny throttle body control and seems it will be difficult to connect to. Will have to build some sort of lever system to compensate for log travel in pedal versus extremely short travel in throttle body.

Driven clutch is hitting oil filter mount at high rpm. So I have ordered a remote filter mount kit and am hoping it will solve that problem.

Shifting linkage- Well since it was electric there is none! After research, the rear end seems to have been originally set up for the double cable FNR. Well in my mind two cables just means double the trouble in the future. So I ordered the newer model single cable mechanism. Three problems with that- 1. FNR shift lever mounts to rear end toward direction of driven. Driven will most likely hit it at high rpm. 2. I would mount it and find out but the bracket that mounts to the top of the rear end and holds the cable is hitting into the rear engine cylinder. 3. FNR shift lever is also blocked by the troublesome oil filter. So little to say I have some brain racking and mods to make on that issue.

Once I get all of these things sorted out I will take it out for the long awaited test drive.

One question I have that you guys might be able to answer. I have Alternator 696579 and rectifier/regulator 691573. See type J alternator id. http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/mi...nator_id_a.pdf
I can't seem to get the pdf to attach. Two yellow wires and one red wire. I do not have a red DC output lead on the connector side (as shown) that is opposite of the rectifier, which I can easily add. (kind of important for battery charge) There is a red dc out wire coming from the rectifier going to the connector. I did put my voltmeter on the backside of the red wire and got nothing. This should be the charge circuit. Correct? Is it possible I have a bad rectifier brand new out of the box? Any input would be helpful on this one.

Also on top of the engine there are two other wires I cannot find any info on. I did figure out the black wire is for a tach and operates mine properly. But I cannot figure out what the white on is for. Possibly ammeter? It is putting out about 1.5vdc at 1200rpm. But in reverse polarity? I'm stumped on that one.

Anyhow, I'm attaching a few pics of the build and ones pertaining to my questions. I will post more soon. And I'm sure to have more questions. Thanks again and please feel free to critique anything you might notice that I'm doing wrong.

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BGW

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Rep

I cannot offer advice, but I admire what you've done. Very cool.

I'll be watching this thread.

1989Marathon

Very nice project! Welcome to BGW.

You won't see any DC on the red wire unless it is connected to a battery with at least 5VDC.
I can't see the other wires very well in the pics. Where are the other ends connected to?

Harperhogue1

I think I'll just go for it and hook up the DC out with ammeter in between. See what readings I get then.

Small wires- From a picture I took when I had the cowel off it looks like the white wire is wired to the stop switch terminal. The black wire seems to be linked series right to the ignition coil. Which would make sense for rpm signal. Maybe the white wire is for mower seat safety kill switch since it is putting out reverse polarity?

Harperhogue1

Well that did it. Connected to number 6 post on ignition switch and is now showing strong charge with ammeter. Put ammeter in line and it is indicating correctly as well. Thanks Marathon for your input.

Harperhogue1

I was wondering if anyone on here might be able to provide me with some measurements of their gas tank. Ezgo TXT and up. I'm having difficulty finding a Marathon gas tank for my build, that doesn't cost a fortune. Thought I might try to use a newer model one if it would fit. Tank dimensions anyone? Thanks in advance for your help!

Unforgiven

look around for a lawnmower tank,...they are plentiful around my area.
First picture is a lawnmower tank 2 1/2 gallon that I was going to use, but I was going to have to fuel pump to my gravity feed carb and decided against it.
Ended up a good friend fabed me a 5 gallon tank that I mounted behind seat.

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