Speed Concerns with big block swap

ramptester

My dad and I are building a Club Car Carryall II, 1994 model, gas. We have it lifted with 22s. Check my profile to see the build so far. The motor just won't run right. It sputters and backfires, with sooty exhaust and black plug tips. I've changed all the fuel lines and cleaned the carb, although I could not remove the main jet as someone had buggered it up before me. The carb butterfly is wallowed out, so it probably needs to be replaced. The header is stock and has developed a few holes. We figured that the cost of these repairs such as a new carb and muffler would really be throwing money down the drain on an underpowered worn out unit. We looked into rebuilds but we have a piece of land that is very hilly and is just too much for that 9 horse motor to pull reliably.
My problem is that it was mild enough for my wife, mom, and kids to drive before, but is a bit faster now with the taller tires. It would obviously be much more capable over the hills with a 23hp vangaurd, but I have concerns about it being too fast. How controllable is the power on one of these if we were to go with the CCP kit, including drive and driven clutches? Is the kit a key start, or does it still use the pedal?

BGW

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Field6565

The kit will be key start. I wouldn't be to concerned about the top speed of the big block as it won't go any faster than the stock engine, it will just get there a lot quicker and have a ton of torque. I would assume you could also adjust the governor a little to keep the top speed down.

TJL

On my 96 carryall 1 on 22's it was decent with the fe290. Would go fast enough but nothing special, i didn't worry about other people driving it. Now it has a kohler v twin and I will not let anyone else drive it. It accelerates scary fast compared to stock and if you aren't used to it you could wreck it quick.

If your worried about it you may go with a clone motor instead of a v twin. A stock-ish clone gives significant increases in power over a tired stock motor but it isn't a total animal. 9hp to 15hp +\- instead of a torquey 20+ hp v twin. Also with the clone it's a pretty easy install and if you decide you need more power you can get with someone like Vegas carts and make the "tame" clone motor a real animal.

Dave in VA

I don't know what the CCP install instructions are for a CC, but for the Yamaha G16, you utilize the cart governor, with a new included gov to carb cable. Speed was definitely limited when installed per instructions. I ran the pedal cable directly to the carb, and performance was greatly improved.

But even with the 23, I can putt slowly around the yard or down the road. Mash the pedal, and it's a different story. Common sense must prevail...

ramptester

thanks for the advice. I'm not sure my boys have common sense, though!! I guess I'll have copilot duties for the next few years.

sho305

Stock clone is like a supercharger on the stock engine, its nearly twice the power of a worn out stock engine. But without work you are not going to be doing wheelies lol, it just feels like a lot more than stock in that you can roll over sand that would near stop you before and spin up a hill the stock engine barely made it up. Its not much faster because they don't rev more, though a rev kit is cheap and will give you a little more speed on a straight. My other clone with some bolt on parts and still stock cam and block is faster to where you can get going on a trail much quicker, you don't keep it planted on a trail anymore because you get going too fast. The stock clone does 31gps flat out in a G9 with 22s, mine as hit 38gps so far same cart and tires, stock it went 30gps, all without governors. The clone gets to top speed in under half the distance the stock engine took on a flat drive. A v twin is going to have more torque so takeoff will be harder yet, though they tend to not rev out unless you modify them. V twins can be much more expensive to buy or mod, but they are a larger engine than a clone as well and can make more power because of that. They are pressure oiling too so they might last more hours.

The stock clone is much like a very powerful stock engine, it starts with the pedal if you set it up that way. It does have enough power that if you drive out of a ditch that is steep it can pull a wheelie with two guys on it. With one person it usually spins the tire instead. They do have cut sheaves that give more gearing at low speeds. A twin is really going to set you back in the seat when you take off, the clone does enough to notice you are not on a stock cart. I don't let anyone but known adults run my clone, its certainly not safe for kids. For kids I'd put a stock clone and rev kit in with the governor still on the cart, defeat the governor for yourself if you want it faster when you are driving. You can do this with a twin as well, but its still going to have much more power on takeoff. The real advantage with a clone is you can have a new engine for just about less than a stock rebuilt. You can get a Vegas clone with more power yet for a little more. All depends on you use of the cart and your budget. Bigger can be better, a twin can sound cooler as well. The last thing I'd say is even if you put a clone in a cart then you wont have that much work to do to install a twin or some other larger lawn type engine if you change your mind later. You will have the mount, wiring, and clutch issues worked out already.

compmikey

Sort of related - are the stock clutch components up to the job of handling the V-twin power levels?

jeff70

The driven clutch will be fine, I am using the stock G2 clutch on my Vtwin and it works OK, I am not sure about the longevity of it but for now it is doing the job. I plan on going to a 2 barrel carb and a 23hp cam in the future, and when I do I will upgrade the clutch just so I can get the most out of the engine.

clmidrive

Im running a 23hp vtwin with high rev kit and upgraded cam 25 inch tires with stock clutch and no gov. 43mph on gps.
Steep ditches with one person on it it will pull the front wheels of the ground

sho305

The 1 3/16 size belts were originally for up to 500cc sleds with 60hp or maybe more. The clutches used are similar though tuned differently, but I mean similar design and strength when you look at them. Even higher hp clutches use better quality belts and clutches with more holding forces, but the basic design is not much different. Pretty sure the first sled I went over 100mph on was a stock 1 3/16 or maybe 1.25 wide belt just like many carts use.