clutching gone mild

golfcartjohnny

I have a 1980 EZGO Marathon, that I lifted, and installed a 20 HP Honda Twin, motor in.
The primary clutch, is a Comet 94C Duster, and the driven clutch, is from a Club Car, ( I believe).
From what I have read, the more pucks you add to the Comet clutch, the sooner it will start shifting.
I Have 6 heavy pucks in the clutch, along with the pink spring.
When I take off hard, it shifts up so slow, and then slowly picks up speed.
I've watched it working, and the engine has to rev up to around 2000 rpms before the clutch starts moving. It will shift till the belt is at the top of the clutch. Both clutches shift completely.
Though it is a smooth takeoff, I don't like it. My brothers stock cart, will get me on the start, every time.
When I hit the gas, it should be taking off quickly, not slowly. The belt isn't slipping either, as I can climb hills etc, without it slipping.
My question is, what am I doing wrong.
What spring/puck combo, do I need to make the clutch shift faster?
I'm not worried about spinning the tires at take off, but do want a faster reaction.
If there is another type of primary clutch that will fit a 1 inch shaft, that will work better, I'm listening too.
Thanks for any help.

BGW

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raydhd

Comet 780

Morgan44

What pucks are in the clutch? Usually six 7/8" pucks and the pink spring works out well. You should be more around 16-1700 engagement I believe. Your secondary is probably too stiff. You need to lighten the spring in there more than likely.

chevydmax6

I second that

golfcartjohnny

I'm not sure the driven clutch is the culprit.
I took the seat off, so I could watch what it was doing.
The engine would rev up, and the primary wouldn't shift right away. It had to rev up, before it would slowly start closing. Once the action started, it smoothly closed, while the driven clutch, opened.

chevydmax6

That a video and post it so w can see what is going on

BigBlockMan

The 94c will always shift slower than the 780. Regardless of spring or weights. It was a good 2 cycle clutch. But for a four cycle....... There are much better choices.

golfcartjohnny

I will try to take a video, and post it. As for a better clutch, I'm all ears.
If you have a suggestion, please give details, as far as weights, ramps, if any, and spring.
Thanks

sho305

I've had a lot of fun tuning my 94c, or maybe not so much lol. Do you mean it revs hard on takeoff and does not go? Then shifts and you go? Mine did that but I have the ribbed cover clutch its different. I ended up getting a black spring for that and cut it shorter, quite a bit shorter like over an inch. I think I posted on my build thread "my second g9 clone bb" in clones. That helped a lot, its not perfect but much better. The pink spring may be ok with a twin that does not need to rev as much. Many say six 7/8 heavy pucks and pink is good. I would first try tightening up the secondary preload more than stock (or a little more spring) and cut the pink spring shorter by say half inch after you try it then see what changes when you cut it.

Problem I had is it would take off and rpm would drop and by say 20mph rpm were too low for my clone. Using the black spring made rpm say the same from say 5 to 25 when it shifted out. The pink spring is weakest so it shifts faster, once it starts shifting. Faster shift is getting into high gear sooner so rpm drop as you go faster until it shifts all the way then of course rpm go up. It still revs some on take off, but funny thing is more hours I get on it the better it works.

Changing the puck weight will change the shift rpm and engagement by my testing. Less weight will rev more on takeoff and rev more as it shifts, but it will act the same. Shorter spring will make it engage at lower rpm, longer at higher rpm. You will have to adjust the puck weight to get the right rpm again if you change the spring. If you tighten up the secondary spring preload or put in a heavier one, it will make it rev more, usually more at lower speeds not as much difference at higher speeds. Again if you change it a lot you will have to change puck weight to get your rpm where you want it again. If you have a rev limit you want it to stay at 3600-3800, it always varies some and you stay away from the limit. A twin might run harder at lower rpm some have a lot of midrange torque so 3400 could be better I don't know. What I did is run a set distance to about 25mph, then I changed things and ran it again. If I ended at a higher speed using a hand gps then I gained. With the mods to my clone 4K rpm was the best speed. I used a $15 ebay tach for a lawnmower and don't think it even works anymore.

golfcartjohnny

That's exactly what it does. It revs up, then takes off, gently, then picks up speed. Though it's not bad, it does use up more fuel, and just isn't right.
I've heard the pink spring, is the lightest they make.
As far as tightening up the driven clutch, the primary has to start moving together, for the rear clutch to shift. It's not happening, until the rpms go up.
There is plenty of torque from the motor, to not lug it down. If the clutch would engage sooner, the engine rpms would drop, and not rev up as high. That's what I'm looking for.