Studs VS Bolts

Shepard

This is from another thread I didn't want to hijack.
"Well I ran into my first major issue, my exhaust bolts backed out the other day and stripped out half my threads" written by Ironmonkey.
These Vegas engines are very tough and the blocks are much heavier in every aspect. The one thing that remains constant with all engines is the threads in the block. What the block is made of?
With anything that comes apart on any kind of regular basis --- covers - hatches - racing quality engines - etc, uses a stud instead of a bolt. In these clone engines I like to inspect the threads every time I pull off some part.
I replaced the head bolts with studs on my racing mower. The intake and exhaust are studs also.
Iron monkey I suggest using studs for your exhaust pipe. You can run the stud in as deep as the pocket, good studs have a allen socket on the end of the stud. A stud allows 100% use of the threads like in your head.

BGW

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Brother Bob

Hello Shepard, If it was mine -- I would run a tap one size bigger than the (Metric ) With a stanard Course threads only with (STUDS) and Don't Drill just take your time and tap with pleanty W-D 40 and use a good degreaser when done.Then the best lock tight you can find. Let it set over night: thumbup:

dundeebarnbuggy

I have found this very common on china engines that I seem to attract to get repaired. Probably a combination of poor metal and bad tapping job. Neighbor brought me a almost new china engine that was used on a hydraulic pump and when I removed the plug, most of the threads came out with it. Hardly enough metal in the head to helicoil. Told him to see if he can scrounge a good head and I would try to get it running. Your exhaust port problem is common too. Agree with the solution to use studs and don't hang a heavy/long exhaust pipe off of it. Use a section of flex pipe and support the system further downstream. Keep us posted.

raydhd

I have studs on the exhaust , intake , head, and valve cover. All with thread locker red.

dundeebarnbuggy

Not sure how much the thread locker will help on the exhaust studs as the studs and parent metal gets pretty hot. But won't hurt. If the studs are bottomed snug in the block there shouldn't be any reason for them to loosen other than expansion from heat cycling. I used to cross drill rocker studs and put roll pins in them to keep them from pulling. Not sure if it is doable in your case, just an idea.

Cavemandrew

Studs with red thread locker and brass nuts.

HBR

Does the exhaust area get hotter than 550?

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/ho...-threadlocker/

raydhd

When I put new exhaust studs in the head the thread locker was intact after 170 hours.

HBR

When I work on motorcycle clutches I have to keep the heat on the bolts in order for the Red to stay soft. Once it starts to cool the stuff hardens up and makes getting the bolts out back to impossible.

raydhd

What you don't want particularly on the exhaust studs is for them to come out while you are taking off the nuts on them. Thread locker red was the only thing I found that was sure to hold them with repeated use. When I changed to shorter head studs to remove the the older longer ones I heated the area with an electric heat gun and they came out with out issue. P.S. My front cover and cooling shrouds still have bolts with thread locker blue on them.