Lifan 15hp governor removal

1arunem

I find a lot of info on removal of the governor on the HF420 but not much on the Lifan 420cc.

Is the process the same? Any issues with removing it (other than the concern with high rpm as it relates to rods/valve springs, etc.).

Thanks!

BGW

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sho305

When I did it I took the block cover off and broke the plastic gear off completely. I took the arm out the top and using grease on the tap and rag inside, I tapped the hole 3/8 thread part way in, then put a set screw in there with teflon tape to plug it. I put the engine cover side up overnight before so any oil would creep away from the cover (it was empty, I did this before putting oil in it, but they test run them so some oil still in there).

You can get HD springs from Vegas and others for $20 or something, and pretty much run it hard long as you don't hold it at max rpm for extended time like down a road for miles. I would run 5-10 gal of fuel through it before you put the springs in, so its fully broke in before you rev it hard with stock rod. I have only run maybe 1/8 mile WOT for testing a few times, I burst up to that max speed but then let off. I don't run roads that much so I don't run over 30 or so very often. Its hit 38 gps last time I screamed it on a road then I put a vegas cam/rod in it but have cart at a different place and not easy to run road there. I'm sure when I get it going good 40 will be easy but better yet it has more beans, its fun. It has a lot of other mods too. The other 420 cart is stock and it runs 4300-4400 max rpm with no governor floating valves, you can't get over that until you put springs in it. I had problems with the scooter carb I have on it and have it working better, but have a new carb to try on it now after I made a fitting for it. The CV carb did not want to run faster than it did before the cam (same speed it ran with stock carb and stock cam), I tied the spring up shorter and it helped a lot but not sure what its doing. It runs great at lower speeds. New carb is a slider carb.

raydhd

All the clones use the same system. The only key thing is to remove all the parts inside.

1arunem

Thanks.. I thought I read something on these about an electronic limiter?

Shepard

If you have a Vegas Carts 625cc engine -- it has an electronic rev limiter -- no other.

sho305

The home depot 420 (lifan) now has ut2 ignition and it has a limiter, but you can buy the unlimited coil from NR racing.

raydhd

OOH I forgot about that UT2 Business. It might be cheaper to get a UT1 coil and flywheel.

Shepard

Ya Honda comes up with these ideas to screw up the clone game. Now these other idiots are using it in there engines. I did some homework - I was wrong about the 625 being the only controlled rpm engine. Here's the problem -- who runs there cart in the 1800 to 3500 rpm range constantly? The Honda CDI coil will only benefit people who have or are required to operate at 4000 rpm or less like the amusement go karts and kiddie kart racers. My cart operates like a truck and is through the 1800-3500 rpm range so fast I don't think I'd feel the benefits. I'm looking for one of the 625cc engine wire-on rev limiters.

sho305

I don't know about UT2 but the G9 (and G2) ignition retards to zero at idle then advances starting at 1000rpm until full advance at 2500rpm I would guess around 30 degrees I think it says in the manual exactly what it does. Then stays same above 2500rpm at full advance. From what I read the B&S and honda electronic magneto types do not change the advance that far (30 degrees but only 10-15 or something). I think when some of the G2/9 ignitors go bad they stay at full advance all the time, so hard starting and poor low rpm running. Most all these advance the flywheel timing then only retard at low rpm, they do not really advance, high rpm is straight timing pre advanced mechanically on the flywheel. That is why UT2 flywheels are different they are advanced more and possibly there is a timing element of waiting for the electronics to work.

Anyway, 2500rpm and higher full timing is typical for automotive, or non electronic (non ECU) ignitions. So it should make a difference for a 0-3600rpm use, while its not much it does help or you can run more total timing without knocking at lower rpm. With the old static timing way you have to either run it over 2500 all the time with more timing, or use less timing as a compromise if you load the engine under 2500. I thought of trying to put my G9 ignition on my clone to get advance, but do not have the time to fabricate some kind of flywheel pickup for it to run on, I don't know if the magnet would run it right I have not compared with the G9 flywheel which is significantly different and appears to have a hall effect window for the pickup.

On the other hand automotive engines have had advance since the beginning of time, EFI since the 80s....not really sure why lawn engines can't, but hey my smarty phone cant even block calls or EQ music so new tech really aint what its all cracked up to be. They only care about what they can charge for, screw the customer and efficiency and environment and anything else. The government hacks want to put a cat converter on a lawn mower but not make it use say 10% less fuel its whole life with a little tech, you tell me what makes sense. Nobody cares about us people. But hey old tech is dirt cheap, and there are some EFI lawn engines out there now.