Vanguard Rev Kit

slonomo

Looking for some advice on a rev kit.

I have a stock 23hp Vanguard engine. I will be installing the CPP mild cam for it, not the Cheetah.

Should I get the standard rev kit?

Should I opt for the billet pushrods?

Should I get HD valve springs?

Are there any other options for rev kits?

This won't be a race engine, but I want durability along with the added performance.

BGW

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Kennzeichen

I would get everything but the springs. That’s my setup but with a bigger cam.


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slonomo

How does your cart run? Did you have any other engine setups before? How did they compare?

Field6565

Here's the set ups on Vanguard carts. My G1 has an advanced timing key, billet retainers, billet pushrods and double wrapped valve springs from E.C. My G16 has an advanced timing key, billets retainers, billet pushrods and HD valve springs from CPP. They weren't kits, everything was purchased seperate. Both are on stock cams and I haven't had any issues. No matter what you do I reccomend the billet pushrods. I think the rev kit from Performance V-twins comes with the better pushrods.

slonomo

E.C.?

I have the CPP kit in my 16, but it didn't come with the billet pushrods, I ordered those separately.

So, with the CPP cam, should I go with the heavier springs? I'm thinking so.

Field6565

EC Carburetors.com

I like having the new springs. Here's a pic of the CPP spring compared to a stock Vanvuard spring. Big difference.

Attached Images

20171127_143419.jpg (78.0 KB, 0 views)

Kennzeichen

I just ran my 18hp at the CAW drag strip, running 5k rpm and hit 45mph. Can’t knock that I guess. My engine runs great.


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Kennzeichen

What’s the advantage in having them? I’m curious, I haven’t heard anyone say that they needed them or wished they had them after the fact.


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slonomo

Heavier springs help when you have a bigger cam or you run your engine at high rpm. At high rpm the valves are moving so fast that sometimes the springs will not have enough pressure and the valves will lose contact with the cam and/or the valve seat and not fully close, aka "valve float". Poor performance, added wear, and possible damage to the valve-train can result. Heavier springs will help combat this and put more pressure on the valve to keep it in contact with the cam and seat.

Now whether or not the Vanguards "need" this is in question. I think using them is cheap insurance, but with a cam they might be necessary. The downside to using heavier springs is the possibility of added wear to the cam and tappets. Zinc additives, heavier oil, and synthetic oils all help, but as with any performance mod you do sacrifice some durability.

Field6565

That's exactly right Andy. It's just added insurance. Just like the cast aluminum rockers over the stamped steel ones. Also the thicker billet aluminum push rods over the the thin stockers. If you're running the aluminum rockers, thicker push rods and high compression valve springs.....your valve train is bullet proof.
As far as the stamped steel rockers go, unless you was holding 6k rpms for a long period of time like the race mowers do, I don't see them being a problem.

Now I'm wondering how high you could rev a shimmed stock valve spring before it would actually float. I think CPPs website says 5500. The heavier springs should go well beyond that.