Cut the crank down?

jsmall

This is where the clutch sits without cutting the crank down. Does it stick out too far or should I cut it down?

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BGW

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AaronW

Lot of side load on the crankshaft and crankshaft bearing. Does the drive belt align properly?

-AW

Field6565

I would cut it down. Get the clutch as close as you can to the block. Right now you are putting stress on the bearings.

jsmall

It’s not mounted yet but the mount I made can adjust front to back and side to side. So once it’s all aligned I can just tighten the bolts and lock it in place.

raydhd

CP241

Cutting/drilling/tapping the crank sucks. It's not a lot of fun, and if you screw it up you're done. no second chances. And you're stuck with an OEM style clutch, and guessing your clutch has seen it's years of use already.

It's worth a few bucks to buy the comet 780 and the starter/general pulley from vegas carts. It's a stronger clutch and takes 2 minutes to install it, plus you won't have to fight drilling out the crankshaft.

Just my .02. I did that once, next time I do a swap I'll buy a keyed clutch.

Shepard

Drill the pilot hole in the crankshaft before you cut it. This way you can keep it centered.

jsmall

I cut and drilled the crank last night and got the clutch 1/2” from the block. Did yours spin on the crank? Is that why you say you would use the keyed one if you did it again?

slonomo

I had two different engines spin the clutch using a tapered adapter. I'm not a fan. It does work for a lot of people though.

gunwhatgun

I will offer this. In the machine world, a taper fit is very common and once you understand them they rarely slip. In a mill or lathe you place your taper attachment and then give it a tap to wedge it on. Not a massive blow just enough to get it past the stopping point and wedged on. Then make sure you have your bolt torqued properly.