Longer Drive Belt

fillic

Just finished up the installation of the Honda GX620 in a club car ds (9. Keeping the original clutch for now, but I need a 4-5 inches (41" - 42") longer drive belt. Where do you find a belt a 1" wide belt that is heavy duty. All I can find are wider ones.

would any variable speed belt work for the short term?

Phil

BGW

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fillic

anyone

Flintrock

That's a tough one, long, narrow belt. Here's a few Carlisle belts for ATV's/ snow mobiles that are close. A little wider is not normally a bad thing........

UA411 42-5/32" 1-3/64"
UA424 41-7/32" 1-3/16"
UA439 42-11/32" 1-1/4"
MAX1110M2 41-13/64 59/64"

Davis Welding and Fab

http://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-belts/=buyfw8

McMaster Carr? I think this one is 1-3/16 X 42

sho305

You might be able to cut down a 1 3/16, not sure if I should post the osh* approved way I would do it.

fillic

Thanks! Ordered from mcmaster a 1-3/16" variable drive wide belt. Sooner or later I"ll have to change the stock clutch since I'm told it won't stand up to the Honda 20 hp.

If I have to cut the width down, what's the best way to do it?

jadawg27

I want to know that one too.

gillean

I know this is old but i would be really interested to know how to do this?

sho305

You run it on the clutches, while doing that you take say a grinder that will thin the belt... Beforehand you have to figure out how to get the grinder in the proper position that will cut the belt at the right angle and stay in position. You have to hold the grinder against something so it does not move around, but cuts true. Then you cut just a little at a time on the rotating belt in an effort to make an even cut and get the same width all the way around the belt. If the clutches are not straight for some reason you might make a mess. You have to do this safely of course, rotating belts are nothing to mess with. This was not hard to do on sleds as the belt is very accessible, and you don't need to run the belt really fast or anything. So you could do this from the outside and never have the tool or your hands that close to the belt or sheaves. You could clamp a 2x4 or something there on an angle and as you slide the tool down it cut more on the side of the belt, that way it cut the same on the whole belt. Also better to do this such that belt is off a fixed sheave and not moving around. Did this a long time ago and it worked, but now I don't even remember why we did it. Some sleds were raced and it might have had to do with how the clutching was set up. Some guys did stock class and you can't touch the engine. If you can't figure out how to do this safely by all means don't do it.

gillean

Thanks for the info sho305