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Unread 04-07-2012, 11:16 PM   #1
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 190
Default Clutch change drama

Honda GX670 24hp EZGO - Changing OEM EZGO driven clutch to CVTech.

The grease trick with the 3/4" fine thread 2" bolt works.....but only works on a tapered shaft. A straight shaft with a key just allows the grease to squirt through. Cleaning up all that grease was a real PIA.

Having the 3/4" bolt though came in handy with a couple of deep sockets. For whatever reason my clutch was stuck (rusted) onto the shaft after the driven bolt was removed. I tried multiple deep sockets and finally found the right size to shove down the hole (after removing all the darn grease). I used one deep and one regular socket and then inserted the 3/4 bolt. The clutch started coming off the shaft but amazingly the darn thing would not come loose even after bottoming out the 3/4" bolt. Had to remove the regular socket and add a second deep socket before it finally would come loose.

Of course, then the clutch would not come off because it hit the side of the frame. Had to disconnect the rear shocks and jack up the rear. Finally off.

Sanded rusted shaft and spent 30minutes cleaning grease and put on antiseeze. Then the CVtech slid on the shaft but to my disappointment it has a different offset than the OEM clutch so it slid on the width of an electrical tape roll further (I will actually measure it soon to be exact). This means that the belt alignment is off.

Went to Home Depot to get washers to space out the clutch. None fit even close to the inside diameter of the CVtech that would also allow the bolt to go through. So it sits in jacks in the garage until Monday when a real hardware store opens.

Should I try to washer space out the Cvtech the width of a roll of electrical tape or should I try to move the engine sideways? What torque setting should the driven clutch bolt be once I get it back together? Should I use Loctite?

Keep in mind that I have to do this over again when Fstg21 has his camshaft ready and I remove the governor. Clutch has to come off again. Yea. I also switched to a 1 7/32 wide belt and the OEM secondary clutch might not open enough until Fstg21 machines one so that could change the alignment again.

Sigh.
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Unread 04-08-2012, 06:20 PM   #2
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 252
Default Re: Clutch change drama

I had a buddy at a machine shop make my spacer. Put it between the three shoulder on the crank and the clutch. 1" washers should work to get it spaced out far enough.
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Unread 04-08-2012, 09:12 PM   #3
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 190
Default Re: Clutch change drama

Cool...you think spacing out the clutch 3/4" is OK or should I remove the driven clutch to see if it has spacers that could be removed to push it closer to the engine side? This would reduce the amount that I need to space out the drive clutch.
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Unread 04-08-2012, 09:19 PM   #4
Gone Wild
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 252
Default Re: Clutch change drama

Didnt see any spacers in my driven, nor did I have to add any to the new driven from cpp. I would space the drive clutch first..... Least amount of work! ;)
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Unread 04-11-2012, 05:54 PM   #5
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Default Re: Clutch change drama

Before I used a 3/4" spacer, Fstg21 told me to check the mounting holes on the engine. I was able to move the engine just 1/8" short of the 3/4" that I needed.

Now will just add a washer to get the remaining spacer.

Does anyone add loctite when installing bolt on Primary clutch? What lbs. should I tighten it to?
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Unread 04-11-2012, 06:00 PM   #6
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 252
Default Re: Clutch change drama

Haven't used loctite on any of mine. I would estimate torque around 20 ft lbs. It is just holding it on, not keeping it from spinning.
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