BRIGGS 16 build up opinions

nobuckbuild

Ok so far Im getting closer starting the build up my 303447 all parts a cleaned or as clean as im going to be able to get it (former carpet cleaning van engine) i have a new crank rods and pistons block bored .020 over , 23 hp cam , the great dilema I have now is rev kit. I don't like the idea of shim's due to unknown spring rates and wear. the price difference is minimal and I am thinking just go with the isky springs and heavier pushrods with a timing key. I just dont want to have it be a weak spot on a new engine.
next item i pulled the gov out and and just trying to figure out the fuel side of things i just cannot get settled on fuel delivery, three options i am considering, first and most expensive fuel injection 400+ and some fab work but it would be bada** and tuneable performance at the flip of a switch , major drawback is that way i want to build this is motor isolated from the rest of the cart as in electric wise and this would complicate that.
Second would be the two barrel setup that i have seen on another thread but I cannot find a manifold or adaptor for it (anyone know where to get one) but the other side the coin is a two barrel carb flowing through a single barrel manifold, thats where the fabbing of a custom manifold comes into play.
third and the option I would like to try first is to open up the single carb with jetting and see if it will feed enough for 4500 rpms and not lean out on me and the paramount question of suffocating the engine with the bigger cam and bore and not getting enough air and fuel to make the power.
im just looking to fill those cylinders with 14.7:1 for max power without sacrificing reliability and driveablity but still have that grunt.

wow 17 questions and now i need to know what others have done and there opinions

BGW

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1989Marathon

I was going to go with the Isky springs too, but the weak point would have been the stock stamped spring retainers. The rev-kit was the best option. The shims set into a pocket and cannot move. 3-shims per valve. I also went with the larger diameter pushrods. Use the thin metal head gaskets to bump compression. I don't think you meant 14.7:1 ratio. Even if you could achieve that(which you can't with this motor), the crank would self destruct within a few minutes at speed.
As far as the 2-bbl intake, they came on the 20hp vertical shaft motors. I bought mine on heymow forum for $50. I bought two 2-bbl carbs for about $40 each. Now I have a spare for parts. Get the carb with the black(not white) emulsion tube so you can install an adjustable needle. That way, you remove the main jet, and have infinite adjustment for the high side of the carb. The 2-bbl intake has two separate sides(dual plane). Each side feeds one cylinder. The 90° adapter is available online for $30 new. I wouldn't attempt to install a 2-bbl carb on a single bbl manifold.
Your third option with the single bbl carb is do-able. If you only want 4500rpm, you don't need the 23hp cam.

1989Marathon

The 2-bbl intake is about $90 new. Part number 690886.

nobuckbuild

when i said 14.7:1 i was speaking of air fuel ratio, i could imagine if you could get it to start with 14.7:1 compression i wonder which parts would escape first the rods or the heads. anyways what i was hung up on was that 90 adaptor the other parts i can find . where did you get that.

1989Marathon

J.Cribbs

I also didnt like the idea of shims so i used precision double valve springs and billet retainers.

http://www.precisioncams.com/mower.html