carryall elec to gas, lifted, kohler, bigger wheels/tires hyd fronts

charliew13

Ok, I'm too new. I guess this is the place to start this thread. If there is a better place maybe a moderator can move it. Been doing a crash course on this but of course I don't know what I don't know. But I've learned mainly from here enough to probably make some wrong assumptions. I love to fab and have several welders and a mill and have access to a good machinist but really try not to use him any more than absolutly necessary as he is pretty busy with his projects, we are retired, that just means every day is saturday but if it's for someone else it's also overtime pay.

You prolly can tell as all my buddies already know, I'm also too long winded.

Parts I have so far:

97 elect. carryall 6 gonna be my wifes yard car- if she doesn't like it oh well it's mine. Plan on putting a electric tilt on the bed with fold down sides.

95 cc gas for parts- no motor or clutch

92 4x4 350 polaris kinda looks like water damage- might use the drive clutch Kinda thought about using the tranny as the jack shaft only with gears. (it may be junk also from water as it won't turn by hand but it could be the brake is stuck it has been setting outside, the motor came in a box already apart) Both clutches look ok and I have the belt, it looks like it doesn't have any time on it. I sorta thought about using the front end but the struts have some rust on the rams at the top and even cleaned up they might leak.

The front frame rails of the carryall are damaged. the pass side is broke at the back bolt that holds the front assy on all the way through. The driver side is cracked at top at the alum upright. The driver rail is bent a little but this is a high torque buggy not a 100 mph thing. I've been looking at it with the front end off for a few days while I do more imp stuff on the place. I can sandwich two 3/8/ 2.0 plates on the rails and do a lift sorta like the z lift to get it right may even add a cross piece to stiffen it up some.

just got a 20hp kohler from here thanks to 89 marathon

I have ordered the taper adapter sleeve and a hd 1 3/16 belt

Also I can get a gas yamaha for parts-with both clutches and the rear end

Thats where you guys come in. Do I need the gas yammy for the rear end? The cart is priced at 250.00 and the motor has had the carb robbed off of it so it's prolly not good. But maybe the rear end is. I am going to need some rear axle pads but I can torch the ones off of the elect rear end on the cc carryall axle I guess unless I can get some new ones which of course would fit up tighter to weld on the the gas yamaha rear end to lift it. I do have some 3.0x1.5 rectangle tube I coud use and put a pad on that to go up.

I'm trying to not get ahead on this and regret not thinking and asking enough

Not sure about the clutches I have available

Thats it, open to suggestions, haven't bought wheels and tires. Thought about the front hyd brake kit from jakes although I have bought front end parts and brakes from a member here for extra parts as the carryall is missing the cables so the front stuff may be wore out could have also just been robbed when the frame broke. New bushings can't hurt.

Like I said I need about 20 mph and mostly torque, this may be a pasture buggy if the wife doesn't use it and the 92 2x4 350 polaris I bought new will stay resting in the shed, It's gets used less and less. I mainly use it for pulling stuff around the place, I've pulled a toyota truck sideways in my shop with it. It fits in smaller places than my massey tracter. That was before I filled my shop up with projects.

Are any of my thoughts useable?

BGW

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tjb406

use the 95 cc gas rearend it will bolt right in i beleive. and it being 95 it will be the right rotation for the engine you have for it.

charliew13

Well it is like christmas today. I got some 23x10.5x12 inch mojave tires on black wagon wheels, a super sport black 7.5 lift, a new cc driven clutch for bb kits, a 780 comet drive clutch, a 13/16 hd belt, a rear manual disk brake kit for the front and some small missing gas car parts. Now all I gotta do is find the time to start fitting it all up.

charliew13

I thought I would update a little. It has been cold and rainy thankfully the last 24 hours so I got to play with the cc. The driven clutch came off easily as it had some copper looking antisize on it. The barkes were rusted on though. I can't believe there is no access to the adjusters to back the shoes off of the drums. Lots of bumping with a deadblow and prybars on the drums. I took the anchor bolts loose and that seemed to help some. The shoes look new but both the shoes and drums need a good cleanup.

As time allows I have been heliarcing the broken front rails and adding a 1/4 x about 2 3/4 flat along the sides of the rails to reinforce them, they were bent to the driver side a little but they straighten pretty easily before the added pieces on either side. The lincoln 185 is light duty for this stuff and the duty cycle slows the welding down some. I learned plug welding 3/4 holes in 1/4 aluminum is not the way to go without a spool gun.

I'n still thinking the polaris two speed tranny might be a good thing for the carryall. The rear tires on the polaris seem about the same size as the 23 inch wheels I have so the sproket size is already there to get a reasonable idea of where to start on the gearing. There seems to be a lot of room front to rear under there for the tranny. I'm not sure about how much a chain drive can handle with the added weight of the kohler and the additional polaris tranny should put the unloaded weight up to about 950 lbs, not counting the lift and wheels and electric tilt actuator. The kohler weighs about 100 lbs byitself.

I got a extra crank to have either cw or ccw drive on the kohler so I'm still studying the options. Also the polaris drive clutch is the roller type and it still seems like a better option than the 780 to me. I also still am not sure the taper sleeve is a real heavy duty solution with the polaris clutch.

I was also looking at the polaris carbureator hmmmm.

charliew13

Another update, I got out and drove the 92 350 polaris around and remembered that sometimes it's a b***h to get it in gear, You have to rock it back and forth while trying to shift it. It's been that way since new. soooo I'm gonna get a later polaris xplorer/sportsman tranny that has two shift shafts. That model shifts easier. I also will probably just use the electric rear end and save the gas rear end. The drive ratio between the polaris tranny and the elec. cc rear end and chain or cog belt is another question. The splines on the polaris sprockets look awful light duty. My polaris only has about 400 miles on it so it isn't a good example. I'm hoping for 3k flat land crusing and low range pulling power. I'm thinking the 350 polaris will do about 45-50 top speed but don't know the rpms. It has 25 inch tires I think.

1989Marathon

Nice update. What kind of shape is the Kohler motor in.

GAC

What kind of actuator are you going to use? I have been looking at a few and there are thousand's of these things... How and where to mount?? I know nothing about these but willing to learn.. Looking forward to seeing what you do with that.

charliew13

I bought this actuator and their momentary switch. I may switch to a relay with limit sw after I fuggure it out. The retracted length will be a challenge getting it in the center of the cart.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280873905899...#ht_915wt_1141

I also bought a 96 400 4x4 sporstman polaris tranny and shifter. It should be a better design as it uses two shift shafts and should be easier to change gears than the earlier version I already have. The elect. rear end won't work using two driven clutches as a drive from the tranny to the rear end as the clutches od appears too big. This way I won't have to make a input shaft for the elect. rearend. I think I can decide on a ratio between the tranny and the gas rear end and make spacers to set the clutches at the diameter I want and use a adjustable idler to set the belt tension, if I guess wrong I can easily redo the ratio, also I have the polaris belt, which is 1 3/16, or a new hd cc belt wiich is only 1.0.

I haven't unboxed the motor yet, but I will as soon as I can get to it as I will have to switch the crank to get ccw rotation on the non flywheel side for the polaris tranny. I have bought a rebuild gasket set. I hope the extra crank is good. I have a bunch of neway valve cutting stuff so I will probaby redo the valve seats and use new seals and check the spring pressure. I haven't decided about hotrodding it yet. I need mostly torque. Not too interested in high rpm. High rpm shortens motor longeivity.

charliew13

Ok, it's a little cool this am so I have been trying to catch up on my studying on the driveline. I saw where there might be a formula or system to figgure out the belt/clutch spacing to get the belt to be at the top at wot and slack enough to shift easy at idle. Anyone got any threads that might be enlightening? Also I have a new cc 1.0 hd belt and a new 1 3/16 hd belt and a good polaris 1 3/16 belt to start with. Is a 1 3/16 belt better or will it just last longer? The drive between the tranny and rearend will be a constant size in the cc driven clutchs so the belt will be running in the same spot all the time. Will this wear the clutch sides prematurely? I can switch to cog belt stuff but I will need to buy that stuff. Also I can use #50 chain as I do have the polaris stuff for that but I will need a driven sproket for the rearend if I go that way. Really don't want to use the chain drive but it is the easiest and cheapest. I can get another cc driven clutch for 50.00 to go with one I have. I will have to make a belt tensioner for the cc belt drive to the rear end of course, if I go that route.

carguymn

Very interested in how this goes. I too have a Carryall 6 that I want to convert from electric to gas.

Please be sure to add as many pictures as you can.