What driven clutch options have I got???

Tjpokey

I've searched high and low but can't find what I'm looking for so hopefully some one can help me. I have a 95 cc and Honda v twin sitting on the shed floor ready to go in the cart. The honda engine is a 1 1/8 shaft and I'm stuck on what clutch to use so what I would like to know is can I use a clutch like a comet 780 or cvtech 06 and machine it from 1" bore to 1 1/8". I realize the clearence issues with the spring hanger so I'm very limited in options and to make things harder I'm in Australia and I think I must be the only person here to try a v twin swap. All I can find here is dusters and the smaller comet 40 I don't like that idea and the cpp web site says they don't do international shipping so any help and info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

BGW

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fstg21

You're not the only one. I walked a buddy of mine in Adelaide through it over e-mail and Skype.

Have the shaft machined down.

Turning is easier than boring and doesn't require a broaching tool.

Remove the crank.(easier than you think it is.)

Take it to a competent machine shop. Any engine shop can do it. Have it turned down to 1" then they can use a 1/4" end mill to cut the slot. Cost me $50 us last time I had it done.

If the shaft is a full 4" long, then have the take 1" off the end and retap it to whatever pitch you can find the correct length bolt in.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/302610a.htm...FQ9eQgodHGwABA

They'll ship wherever and auto-quote the shipping on the site.

Cheers.

Tjpokey

Fstg21 thanks heaps for the reply I think I'm going to try machine the crank but that leads me to another couple of questions. To remove the crank do you basicly remove the rear crankcase cover drop off the big ends and pull out the crank? And also what driven clutch would you recommend and how did your buddy in Adelaide go? Did his swap work well? Thanks

fstg21

You have to remove the flywheel as well. A rubber mallet and a wedge work well for a one time removal.

Remove the valve covers and loosen the rocker arms, then pull the pushrods.

Remove the crankcase cover. Then slide out the camshaft. Make sure you do not lose the thrust washers on either end of the cam. (kind of blue in color)
Remove the connecting rod caps. Then push the pistons as far up in the bores as you can.

Now you can remove the flywheel. If you have or can get a 3 bolt puller I recommend that.

If not, use a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer.
With an impact gun loosen the nut on the flywheel.

Spin the nut off till it is flush with the end of the crankshaft.

Then, place the back side of the engine against something rigid, leaving enough room for the crank to pop out.

A strong piece of lumber across the legs of a sturdy chair works well.

Sit in the chair, then smack the nut with the mallet until the crank pops loose. Retain the woodruff key and nut from the flywheel side and take the crank to the machinist.

Tjpokey

While its apart would you remove the governor or would you just use a stiffer spring or piece of wire on the linkage?

The link you gave me to the drive clutch also has a driven clutch. Would it be up to the task? Thanks heaps!

rokcrlr

An easier way to remove the fly wheel is to run the nut flush to end of crank, give it one sharp smack with a hammer ,preferably a brass one, if you don't have a brass hammer be sure to hit as square as possible to crank end. the flywheel will pop right off. Done it this way for years on briggs cranks and have never had a problem. Briggs even makes what they call an inersia (sp) puller that screws onto end of crankshaft and you smack with a hammer.

Tjpokey

Cool thanks