The Yama-zuki G1 build

neonacr24l · 01-25-2016, 02:30 AM

I started this build about 4 months ago...ive always wanted to swap a bike motor in a golf cart..ive built a few go karts and a quad with the swap. so found this 1983 Yamaha g1 at golf cart salvage shop down the street from me and picked a complete non running roller missing a few parts (parts that were getting tossed anyway). So with past builds ive done once I get the motor in the other places that needed attention took a back seat or half assed them cause I wanted to rip it around instead so the engine is going in last even though I have it already (90 gsxf 750 w/ screw type head). Im actually planning on going through state dot inspection to make road legal, so I cant really rig to just work.

I actually wanted to keep the rear end mainly cause of torque, I have a 6:1 gearset and tried finding info on making it posi before I tore it out, couldnt find anything or didn't look hard enough so I opened it up chamfered both ends of all 4 planetary gears and tig welded them with a nickel filler rod and turned the welds down .005" below the bearing face, worked perfectly. Since I was in there I removed what looked like a governor of some sort...cleaned it up and shot it with some paint and back in.

Replaced all 4 shocks with RGV adjustables and remote dampers (260mm rear and 280mm in front) the rear is lowered 2" front is at stock height.

Now instead of the normal shifter I chose to build a up down air shifter setup/
The tank is a stainless 4" 308L sch10 pipe with .250" sides Tig welded and back gases and pressure tested to 180 psi with a 3 psi drop overnight. the tank has a drain valve underneath, inlet, outlet, and pressure switch (90/120psi). 2 solenoid, 200psi nylon lines and compression fitting. still waiting on the bimba air cylinders I ordered and cant really put those on till the engines in. rams are controlled by the nitrous/ horn buttons on the steering wheel I ordered. I have a MPS ignition kill that getting wired in the bike harness along with a dynatek DLR-400 2-step launch controller that I had laying around.

still have to fab a hub to weld on to the spline coupler I salvaged out the steering wheel.

Dash was framed with .750" MDF , and wrapped with faux leather, stainless sides wrapped in 3D carbon fiber vinyl as was the gauge bezel that holds the oil pressure and temp gauge. (im using a water temp gauge for oil temp actually) Pioneer stereo with a CF surround and a pioneer 4 way 6x9

and then everything was covered in diamond plate. I work on this thing every weekend so im hoping to have this done before april, so that's what it looks like as of tonight

neonacr24l · 01-25-2016, 02:32 AM

more pics

neonacr24l · 01-25-2016, 02:39 AM

more pics

meangreenmachine72 · 01-25-2016, 02:58 AM

Can't wait to see it when it's all done. Keep the pictures coming.

neonacr24l · 01-25-2016, 03:14 AM

Rims are Proline 14x7" 4x100 bolt pattern. I was able to center the rim and got them to true with a mag base indicator to .014-.017" so I don't see why some threads Ive read shun on the 4x100 bolt pattern on the 4x4 hub when in theory theres a 1/16" difference and that's .03125 per side. anyway. I still got to order tires which I found 205/30-14 will work fine in the front and trying to figure out what I wanna run in the rear might be a 225. and I need to order 2" hub spacer. the offset is too narrow (35mm) they fit but the fronts hit the remote damper. the wider stance will make it look better and the concentric adapters will be easier to center. id make them but they would actually cost more for the material and studs then the machining time. so not cost or time efficient.

if you noticed in the pics the hub on the differential input shaft is part of the secondary clutch that has the splines on it. I milled the 3 teeth off it, cut a boss in it and put a 1.25"x5 (5/16-18nc) bolt pattern in it to affix a 530-18t sprocket to it. I still have to machine the sprocket cause I just got it in the mail 3 days ago. the engine will also have a 18t front sprocket to carry a 1:1 ratio to the diff then 6:1 to the tires. top speed I figured would be 70-80mph but im not going for top speed. ill update as the parts come.

cfherrman · 01-25-2016, 02:43 PM

You wont be going over 30-40 with single a arms and rear drums if you didnt upgrade those already

Looks great and also looks professional.

I think you are going to be over geared, bike motor probably revs to 10k so you can rev it when you want speed, but you will probably have to test drive it first.

neonacr24l · 01-26-2016, 01:07 AM

I did the math with 2 different formulas and came up with 72 on one and 84 on the the top speed...factory rev on the cdi is 12,700 rpm. but I do agree, gotta test it first...tire height will be another factor and im going taller and wider in the rear oppose to the front. ill post pics when I get to the front end. rear end is getting the cable disc conversion. just a hint the front is getting cross drilled rear discs from a 88-91 civic/crx si. I got plenty of room with the 14" rims and 2" spacers. the rear rotors have a deeper inset than front rotors and are single plane non vented in the center so the disc isn't as thick (8mm)

so I got my steering wheel in the mail tonight and figure id get a start on the hub for it, and picked up some coiled wire cause it would almost be a waste of time trying to make a clock spring work from a car..this is a golf cart and don't see it going to SEMA. but got the wheel bolted on ..need to wire it up and do little grinding on the hub to clean it up and put two reliefs in the face to run the shifter wires through the hub, along with the horn. the hub is made out of 304 stainless exhaust expansion tube...got rid of the metric bolts for the wheel and used 10-24 1" cap head bolts with the nuts welded to the underside.
The spline coupler is recessed 1.50" so the hub covers everything and have enough room on the wheel side for the steering shaft bolt, horn and wires. also did some more diamond plate...figure I got some scrap left from the sheets I bought and have enough left to jazz the pedals up...and plate behind the pedals on the body.

neonacr24l · 01-26-2016, 01:11 AM

more pics

cfherrman · 01-26-2016, 05:20 PM

I might copy your pedals

I cant remember what im geared to but at 1:1 shaft, 12:1 rear axle, and 22 tires im geared to about that......i think.

Epb · 01-26-2016, 08:13 PM

Really cool build.

01-25-2016, 02:58 AM	#4
meangreenmachine72 Gone Wild Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: New Jersey Posts: 999	Re: The Yama-zuki G1 build Can't wait to see it when it's all done. Keep the pictures coming.

01-25-2016, 03:14 AM	#5
neonacr24l Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Milwaukee, Wi Greenville, Ky Posts: 168	Re: The Yama-zuki G1 build Rims are Proline 14x7" 4x100 bolt pattern. I was able to center the rim and got them to true with a mag base indicator to .014-.017" so I don't see why some threads Ive read shun on the 4x100 bolt pattern on the 4x4 hub when in theory theres a 1/16" difference and that's .03125 per side. anyway. I still got to order tires which I found 205/30-14 will work fine in the front and trying to figure out what I wanna run in the rear might be a 225. and I need to order 2" hub spacer. the offset is too narrow (35mm) they fit but the fronts hit the remote damper. the wider stance will make it look better and the concentric adapters will be easier to center. id make them but they would actually cost more for the material and studs then the machining time. so not cost or time efficient. if you noticed in the pics the hub on the differential input shaft is part of the secondary clutch that has the splines on it. I milled the 3 teeth off it, cut a boss in it and put a 1.25"x5 (5/16-18nc) bolt pattern in it to affix a 530-18t sprocket to it. I still have to machine the sprocket cause I just got it in the mail 3 days ago. the engine will also have a 18t front sprocket to carry a 1:1 ratio to the diff then 6:1 to the tires. top speed I figured would be 70-80mph but im not going for top speed. ill update as the parts come.

01-25-2016, 02:43 PM	#6
cfherrman Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 461	Re: The Yama-zuki G1 build You wont be going over 30-40 with single a arms and rear drums if you didnt upgrade those already Looks great and also looks professional. I think you are going to be over geared, bike motor probably revs to 10k so you can rev it when you want speed, but you will probably have to test drive it first.
cfherrman Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 461

01-26-2016, 05:20 PM	#9
cfherrman Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 461	Re: The Yama-zuki G1 build I might copy your pedals I cant remember what im geared to but at 1:1 shaft, 12:1 rear axle, and 22 tires im geared to about that......i think.
cfherrman Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2015 Posts: 461

01-26-2016, 08:13 PM	#10
Epb Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Katy, Tx Posts: 1,027	Re: The Yama-zuki G1 build Really cool build.

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