Front Hydraulic Brakes with Park Brake

JRL

I have a front master cylinder attached to the brake pedal on an EZGO txt. What happens when the park brake is applied for hours at a time? I need the park brake to function as my Kaw 700 has no "park" function. It will sorta lock when in gear by the sprag. I'm concerned that the front master cylinder will seep around the cups and leak or lock the front brakes?
All ideas welcomed.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

Cartmaster

Cant really give you an answer, but my son has built a Drift car and hooked up a hydro rear brake, basically a master cylinder fed into the rear disk brake lines and a brake lever attached to it beside the drivers seat designed to be able to snatch the brakes on and off to control wheel spin. The lever/master cylinder setup has a flip over pawl that engages on a ratchet to lock the brake on all the time and the car is stored with this pawl locking the rear brakes, so effectively replacing the cable hand brake which he has removed. Apparantly this is a common mod on drift cars and i dont recall hearing of master cylinder issues as of yet.

I hope this helps you out.

JRL

Interesting. Might give it a try. The brakes are more or less completed sans front calipers. I've not installed as we just completed the welding on front suspension and I keep removing the a arms and struts to avoid damage to them. Once cleaned and paint touched up, ready to drop in the engine. The powertrain is a simple thing to complete. The wiring is not complicated but will have to be extended to the dash. Debating what functions to add to the dash. Speedo, light and ignition switch probably will.
The 2W4W gotta go somewhere. The front diff also has a "lockup" feature that has a cable actuator. A small pedal would be ideal for that. I'm going to use a single off/ignition/start switch and lose the starter button and kill switch. Unlike most atvs a KVF700 has battery ignition so that's simple enough. Simple if it was CDI too. Then a lawn mower ign switch would work.

Cartmaster

Well a diff lock up would be better for long term storage without a doubt.

I like your way of thinking things out as so many people rush in and then have all sorts of issues to sort out later.

JRL

Mr. Cartmaster, (and anyone else) you are in the cart business and I'm looking for whatever bushings or part number thereof, of the big bushing that supports the pittman arm on a 3 bolt old style EZGO txt, 2001 (I think?). I note a slight bit of curious motion in the bushing. Might be normal?
Is it a service part? I find only new assemblies, but no individual steering box parts other than racks. Project's coming along nicely, but has slowed due a perfect storm of time consuming rental property failures and fences... I feel like a fencepost farmer.. But the cart plods along. It would be driveable if fuel tank and battery were dropped in. Crude, but operable in 2WD.
Thanks for advice!

Cartmaster

As Far as i know, the top hat bush you are looking for has never been available as a service part. Maybe someone else knows better as i have not been in the industry now for around ten years. I only come here now to get advice for Club cars that i have to deal with on the golf courses where i work as a grass machinery tech. All i do know, is that i was never able to get that part from OEM. I had some turned up on a lathe for me but then found a common damage failure of the aluminum casting on abused carts, gave me a source of good used bushes. See if anyone has broken a casting with a good bush and you are good to go. Its a shame people dont understand the importance of Lubrication! then the used carts we buy would not have these issues LOL. I hope you find a way to solve your problem with the bush and reading your posts, i am pretty sure you will.

JRL

Appreciate your response. May find the bit of play normal. Need the steering tight with 25" tires mounted on 2" spacers. I should'a bought my wheels with more thought...bought offset not quite right.
I reckon I could grab the Vaseline and trek to Charlotte...the large dealers are not into what I do down here. We have no significant cart repair in this area. Power equipment shops will dink with some gas units. Electric carts goes to Charlotte and the unfortunate owner must suffer an arse reaming to afford repairs. Alas, I'm old and whiny..!
Do you perchance recall the bush material? If nylon, could be normal play. I'll mill up a delrin slug. Tough stuff but easy to work with. And cheaply available.
Thanks again!
I work nights so my schedule matches yours to some degree. Sometimes I actually must work...bummer

Cartmaster

Life aint easy my friend.

As far as the bush is concerned, i seem to recall i had them made in bronze by a local bearing supplier, but i think your idea of a plastic based material is a good one. Certainly worth a shot. The Classic Mini car in the UK used a plastic bush in the steering column and it lasted as a production item for 50 + years, so definitely a contender!

If you do go for the plastic, you may find lubrication will not be required so the bush will be simple to fabricate not needing to build in grease holes and channels. I suggest that maybe you drift the old bush out and take a good look at it. It has a lip on one end to also provide a sort of surface bearing as well as a spindle bearing but simple to mimic in plastic. My suggestion would be to fabricate it with a tight inner diameter and ream to suit the spindle on the drop link as i have seen wear on a few spindles. Not many as the bush was either bronze or brass, therefore softer than the spindle, but those things never get to see a grease gun LOL.

If you are successful with this, then you could custom produce some other sizes to deal with some of the *rse reaming you talk about

Good luck and let me know how you get on.

Colin
Ready to retire but the government wont let me.