Looking For Transaxle Sprocket Adaptor?

JRL

Anyone know of a supplier for a spud (sprocket adaptor) that I could weld a sprocket onto for my transaxle shaft? Or even a spud with a sprocket made onto it? 428H or 520 either would work.
The shaft is 0.88" (22.2mm), or very close. The shaft is a smooth, no splines, and has a 0.184" (4.6mm) keyway.
Retaining bolt in the shaft end held the original driven clutch. Could be use to hold the sprocket adaptor with a sleeve.
Installing a ZX6E engine and using the transaxle for now. Probably tear it up soon enough.
Off to look at Grainger's and see if there's a motor pully with these shaft dimensions.
Any ideas appreciated! JR

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

turboaz2

The shaft is 7/8" keyed. Those are the correct dimensions. Any sprocket for a 7/8 keyed shaft will work.

7/8" shaft with a 3/16" keyway.

You can use a #50 industrial chain sprocket, but you will most likely have to use 530 chain as 520 is too narrow. #50 industrial and 530 chain are the same.

520 chain is .25 width and 530 is .375 as is #50. They all have the same .625 ink to link distance.

Buy a hub.

http://www.wttool.com/index/page/pro...m_source=froog

Then find the sprocket with the correct number of teeth you want.

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/se...ets/Categories

I've seen them up to 72, but they probably go higher.

JRL

Thanks! Bought a7/8" shaft coupler and a 7/8" 12T 50 pitch sprocket from "Thebigbearingstore"....figure that if the sprocket doesn't hold up, I'll weld a sprocket onto the 3" wide coupler.
Not sure, but there's a limit to how small a sprocket a 525 or 530 chain will follow without destroying itself. 12T is probably into the "not too good" range.
Still cannot believe how inexpensive the sprockets are?!
Your info makes 2 problem solved today. Had to replace the starter drive on the ZX6. Bought it knowing that the starter drive was screwed. It had been disassembled and reassembled incorrectly. Lucky nothing fell into the engine when I pulled the flywheel. The starter clutch literally fell apart. The PO couldn't get the flywheel off...so he came to a standstill in 30* weather. Good time for buying a cheap motorcycle donor.
Laying the drive out so that I can retrofit a solid axle if the transaxle fails rapidly.
Wanted to keep it simple for now, and keep reverse. Reckon the old generator/starter could be used to reverse the cart...be a lot of fabricating. Quaife is what I want, but so far, that's not justifiable. May become so if this thing works!
Thanks again, JR

JRL

Took a while, but received the sprocket and a coupler that I ordered from the Big Bearing Store. Looks perfect...so far. Got a coupler too that can be used to retain the sprocket, or if the sprocket won't hold up, I can weld a sprocket to the coupler. Been waiting on the transaxle sprocket before cutting into anything. Want to get the chain reasonably straight.
Had a starter problem with the ZX6 engine. Solved that problem with a
$10 Ebay rotor, starter clutch, and starter gear....NO $h1t. Those parts would cost $600 bucks retail. Also bought a set of ZX6E engine cases for $4.95 plus shipping. Ship was $25 bucks. Cannot believe some of the prices of stuff on Ebay! Empty cases are so much easier to work with when building motor mounts and such. The case still has the transmission output shaft and countershaft sprocket. This is good.
Fired the engine up on a bench and it runs great. That's almost a surprise!
Purchased a plasma cutter from Harbor Freight (649 "special"?). Haven't tried it out yet, but it's ready to fire up. Hope the thing works 'as described'...? At least I've got a brick and morter place to get problems solved if it proves to be a dud.
Reckon it's time to get started on the project!

Attached Images

IMG_1708.JPG (45.4 KB, 31 views)

JRL

After a few months of zero progress, I've been dinking with the Hyundai again.
Found that the engine still runs really well, also figured out that the engine won't run without it's complete wiring harness including the instrument panel...? Not sure about what's in the panel that effects running. The ignition switch has an anti-theft feature, but it isn't mounted in the instrument pant.
If anyone has a moment, feel free to critic what I've done so far. Don't want to reinvent the wheel!
The exhaust was the item I most worried about, and that has worked out like a charm. As if the exhaust was made for the swing arm.
The overall height of the unit may require some mods to the seat, but otherwise, the dimensions are narrower and shorter in length than the old Suz 8.7.
Anyone running a motorcycle engine without using the upper motor mounts? I don't see a problem with doing so, but I may after it has a few hours on it. The engine isn't going anywhere for sure. The golf cart swingarm crossmembers might over time. The rear mounts are welded to the crossmember. The front mounts have shock mounts in them. Not sure why Kaw did that, but they did.
The engine and motor mounts form a substantial part of the ZX6 motorcycle frame bridge. However, I'm not using the engine as a "subframe" in the cart. Lots of big bikes (ie Kaw VN1500) only use two mount points. Ideas welcome. Obviously, with the Hyundai rear axle, I ain't going drag racing. I want reverse...so for now, that's the game plan.
One of those reversing sprocket diffs would be nice, but it sure as H isn't in the budget.

JR

Attached Images

	Golf Cart Wsitng.jpg (159.3 KB, 63 views)
	IMAG0034[1].jpg (112.7 KB, 78 views)
	IMAG0036[1].jpg (141.5 KB, 57 views)

JRL

One more thing on a different, but related, subject...a previous post indicated the purchase of a Harbor Freight Plasma cutter.
That's been a bit of a disappointment. When it works, some sort of a guide is required (for me anyway), or it cuts just as crappy as a torch. It cuts wherever it's moved...and does it right now. So you get this super clean, but wandering cut.
But, it's extremely sensitive to input air pressure. It requires a regulator that doesn't vary much at all...othewise it'll start cutting for a second or two, and quit. Then it'll start back up and go another couple of seconds. Add to the that the delay when the trigger is pulled...another part of a second. This process makes for a really bad day.
I'm going to buy a better quality regulator and see what happens. Chinese plama cutters are known for this sort of BS. Hoping that's all the problem.
When it works, its OK. When it starts that cycling stuff, it's worse than useless.
I got a bad feeling that either the upper or lower air pressure sensor is out of calibration, or not consitant. Sometimes the thing works pretty well. I'm definitely not getting into the limited duty cycle. And the air is clean and dry. Using the same reg/drying that's used for a paint gun. Very dry.
I'll post the outcome of the higher quality regulator.

JR

smallblock450sl

Glad to hear the new progress I had a "GREAT" day with mine also. Keep the faith

JR DAD

NEWBIE HERE! Pleaase keep this going and update as you move forward. I just bought a Hyundai cart and plan to do the same type of swap. I have a Suzuki 250 quad engine with built in reverse.

crash12888

I thankfully borrowed a Plasma cutter before buying to see if I wanted one.
It was a Miller high dollar unit and I found that it warped the material I was cutting from 12Ga to 24ga steel.
And yes, where you moved it, it cut!!!
I'm sure they have their place in the world but I wanted a higher quality finished product and was not happy with it at all.

(plus, I have a Bystronic Laser at work)

JRL

That's gonna be some bit of work if your Quad is an LT-250F with high/low range and either 2 or 4WD...gotta work out some halfshaft control arm mounts...or weld the whole back end of the quad to the Hyundai swing arm? Most 4 stroke 250 model Suzukis had the cylinder head mounted low, like a scooter engine, which makes the overall package too long for most golf carts. The ring and pinion is mounted inside the rear of the engine cases, but no diff. The diff thing won't matter if used on dirt. If on pavement, it'll matter a lot.
There was an old LT250 that came in both shaft and a chain version.
Which engine do you have and what are you doing for a drive axle?

Good luck, JR