Golf Car Painting

TheNewGuy · 10-30-2007, 10:30 AM

That is good stuff!!

NO NO NO E-Z-GO! · 10-30-2007, 09:15 PM

I just sprayed it in my cargo box for my cart Sunday evening. Seems to be good although I haven't "used" it yet.

harleymansam · 10-30-2007, 10:34 PM

ok heres wat i did:
1.buy some 89 cent paint
2.try to spray it on the cart outside when it was raining
3.wen it dries,take steel wool and take off the paint that landed on rain drops
4.repaint little spots
5.look at it and cry because it looks like crap and you wasted a few bucks

NO NO NO E-Z-GO! · 10-31-2007, 07:37 AM

When I was spraying the Black Widow (the first time, but not with $0.89 paint ), out of the clear blue sky it started POURING down rain. I got so mad I could have throw that body half way to Timbuktu.

Xtreme Cartz · 10-31-2007, 03:32 PM

Shoot I don't need rain to make my paint job look bad.

NO NO NO E-Z-GO! · 10-31-2007, 03:33 PM

Speaking of... you never posted those pics.

Xtreme Cartz · 10-31-2007, 04:30 PM

Want want want..that's all I hear out of you.

i"LL take some in the morning when the sun is shining.

Gobird · 04-02-2008, 12:43 PM

OK guys, I'm new to the site but I am now in the process of painting my 1999 EZ-Cart. I'll post pics of the process when I'm finished. I went on the advice of the paint supplier I used back home in York, Pa. when I bought the paint a few months ago before we made the move to Florida two months ago. I'm just now getting around to doing the paint job. Everything I am using are PPG products. So far so good. I'm now down to getting ready to spray the clear coat. Hope things go well with this part.

groundpounder · 04-02-2008, 07:37 PM

good choice on paint

ssbillet · 04-03-2008, 12:01 AM

I use first:
WAX & GREASE REMOVER (KC10)
KC10 removes grease, wax, silicone, adhesives, tar, tree sap, insects and dirt. It is a fast flashing product designed to help speedup initial surface preparation before beginning sanding and body work.

Sanding:
Sand with approriate grit paper, what I mean about that is some glass work is rougher then others. You can spen a lot of time sanding with high grit count if it is rough. If it is smooth then 800 to 1000 grit will do the job. The primer will fill a lot of sand marks too. Carefull on the radius corners that you dont cause flats. Prep is the most important part.
I use:
POST SANDING CLEANER (KC20)
KC20 removes sanding residue as well as dirt and light contaminants, such as hand oil. KC20 is designed for use after KC10 and final surface preparation.
TACK TACK TACK TACK AND TACK SOME MORE...LOL
Tacking is very important. Not as much as right now but, later it is. So practice at this step.
Primer:
KWIKURE EPOXY PRIMER (KP21)
KP21 is a 2.1 VOC hi-solids catalyzed Epoxy Primer that meets all current air quality regulations. It is designed to be the first primer applied to bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, magnesium and galvanized surfaces. It's strong adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and corrosion resistance make it the logical choice for the base of a long lasting paint job.
Sand again to rough the surface and to remove any flaws, runs ect... then I use KC20 again and blow it off with air making sure I get in all the little areas so no water sneaks up on my paint. You would be surprised~ when you blow it off with air make sure that you are using clean air with out oil ect... in the lines. Filters can be placed in line with your air source to protect you against those.
TACK TACK TACK AND TACK SOME MORE...!~Very improtant at this point~!
Base Coats:
SHIMRIN® METALLIC BASES (BC and FBC)
Available in coarse or ultra-fine metallic, each offers full coverage in 3-4 coats. Clear for a final finish, or use as a base for Kandys. With their unique chemical make-up, they may be top coated with either acrylic lacquer or urethane enamel.
SHIMRIN® KANDY BASE COATS (KBC)
Kandy Base Coats are a mixture of Kandy and select Pearls into a SHIMRIN® Universal Base Coat that mimics a Kandy finish. They feature low build, fewer coats, are easy to apply, and touchups are easier than ever. Available in the same great colors as our regular kandys. Due to their unique chemical make-up they may be top coated with either an acrylic lacquer or urethane enamel.
I use INTENSIFIER KANDY KONCENTRATE (KK)
When painting real fire,
Use to enrich any of our Kosmic Kolor Urethane Enamel Kandys or Kustom Kolor Acrylic Lacquer Kandys. Our intensifiers reduce the number of coats required to color match an exterior finish. Works great on door jambs, under the hood and in trunk areas. Is also great for small parts, and motorcycles, when time is a factor. Can also be used with SG100 or our lacquer clears for multi-colored artwork.
TACK TACK TACK
SG100 between colors. This will protect what art work you have done. Also gives it a semi gloss finish to see the colors. You can also mix some post sand cleaner with some water to give you a peak at what it will look like with clear.
INTERCOAT CLEAR (SG100)
A protective clear for artwork tape outs on SHIMRIN®Base Coats. May be used to blend SHIMRIN® Pearl and Metallic Base Coats, to mix Pearl and Kandy Koncentrates, and to cut the SHIMRIN‚ base for touchups and blends.
NOTE: Use only when top coating with urethane enamel

Top Coat
POLYURETHANE ENAMEL KLEAR (UC35)
UC-35 is a 3.5 VOC, National Rule and SCAQMD Rule 1151 compliant version of UC-1. It may be used to topcoat any urethane or polyurethane enamels, and any SHIMRIN® Base Coat color. UC35 gives a high-gloss, has excellent weathering and UV resistance. UC35 dries fast and hard, and can be colored sanded and buffed the next day
Let dry and cure for 24.5 hours... wet sand the bugs out if you did this in your garage...lol I use 1200 then 1400 with Ivory dish soap and lots of water. Running the hose on low over your work is the best unless you have really bad water then you will want to filter or use a bucket of filtered water changing it out often.
When you buff use a rough cut compound and work your way to smooth cut compound finishing with a glaze~ I use Meguiars.
I don't wax for 2 weeks allowing everything to cure. You really will not need wax at this point anyways.

Note to painting in the rain... You really can get a really cool effect with rain. Once the rain drops have beaded up on the base coat use your airbrush and paint a light color of your base in one direction and then come back with a darker color. This will give you that wet look year round! Here in WA it is wet most the time anyways...lol

I may have missed somethings. It is late. Hope this helps~

This was before clear and done with KBC. Kandy Base Coats and KK. I would practice before painting real fire on silver.

10-30-2007, 10:30 AM	#11
TheNewGuy Site Moderator Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,619	Re: Golf Car Painting That is good stuff!!
	Ron If you can't run with the BIG DOGS...stay on the porch Please Visit Our Sponsors TheBadBoyG9 * Frame Mod * New Exhaust Marathon Project

10-30-2007, 09:15 PM	#12
NO NO NO E-Z-GO! Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: ComplainAboutNoNo'sProfile-Ville Posts: 5,081	Re: Golf Car Painting I just sprayed it in my cargo box for my cart Sunday evening. Seems to be good although I haven't "used" it yet.

10-30-2007, 10:34 PM	#13
harleymansam Getting Wild Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: MINNESOTA Posts: 95	Re: Golf Car Painting ok heres wat i did: 1.buy some 89 cent paint 2.try to spray it on the cart outside when it was raining 3.wen it dries,take steel wool and take off the paint that landed on rain drops 4.repaint little spots 5.look at it and cry because it looks like crap and you wasted a few bucks

10-31-2007, 07:37 AM	#14
NO NO NO E-Z-GO! Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: ComplainAboutNoNo'sProfile-Ville Posts: 5,081	Re: Golf Car Painting When I was spraying the Black Widow (the first time, but not with $0.89 paint ), out of the clear blue sky it started POURING down rain. I got so mad I could have throw that body half way to Timbuktu.

10-31-2007, 03:32 PM	#15
Xtreme Cartz Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 957	Re: Golf Car Painting Shoot I don't need rain to make my paint job look bad.
Xtreme Cartz Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 957

10-31-2007, 03:33 PM	#16
NO NO NO E-Z-GO! Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: ComplainAboutNoNo'sProfile-Ville Posts: 5,081	Re: Golf Car Painting Speaking of... you never posted those pics.

10-31-2007, 04:30 PM	#17
Xtreme Cartz Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 957	Re: Golf Car Painting Want want want..that's all I hear out of you. i"LL take some in the morning when the sun is shining.
Xtreme Cartz Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 957

04-02-2008, 12:43 PM	#18
Gobird Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Sebring Florida Posts: 21	Re: Golf Car Painting OK guys, I'm new to the site but I am now in the process of painting my 1999 EZ-Cart. I'll post pics of the process when I'm finished. I went on the advice of the paint supplier I used back home in York, Pa. when I bought the paint a few months ago before we made the move to Florida two months ago. I'm just now getting around to doing the paint job. Everything I am using are PPG products. So far so good. I'm now down to getting ready to spray the clear coat. Hope things go well with this part.

04-02-2008, 07:37 PM	#19
groundpounder Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: maine Posts: 1,388	Re: Golf Car Painting good choice on paint

04-03-2008, 12:01 AM	#20
ssbillet Not Yet Wild Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: North of Seattle, WA Posts: 49	Re: Golf Car Painting I use first: WAX & GREASE REMOVER (KC10) KC10 removes grease, wax, silicone, adhesives, tar, tree sap, insects and dirt. It is a fast flashing product designed to help speedup initial surface preparation before beginning sanding and body work. Sanding: Sand with approriate grit paper, what I mean about that is some glass work is rougher then others. You can spen a lot of time sanding with high grit count if it is rough. If it is smooth then 800 to 1000 grit will do the job. The primer will fill a lot of sand marks too. Carefull on the radius corners that you dont cause flats. Prep is the most important part. I use: POST SANDING CLEANER (KC20) KC20 removes sanding residue as well as dirt and light contaminants, such as hand oil. KC20 is designed for use after KC10 and final surface preparation. TACK TACK TACK TACK AND TACK SOME MORE...LOL Tacking is very important. Not as much as right now but, later it is. So practice at this step. Primer: KWIKURE EPOXY PRIMER (KP21) KP21 is a 2.1 VOC hi-solids catalyzed Epoxy Primer that meets all current air quality regulations. It is designed to be the first primer applied to bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, magnesium and galvanized surfaces. It's strong adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and corrosion resistance make it the logical choice for the base of a long lasting paint job. Sand again to rough the surface and to remove any flaws, runs ect... then I use KC20 again and blow it off with air making sure I get in all the little areas so no water sneaks up on my paint. You would be surprised~ when you blow it off with air make sure that you are using clean air with out oil ect... in the lines. Filters can be placed in line with your air source to protect you against those. TACK TACK TACK AND TACK SOME MORE...!~Very improtant at this point~! Base Coats: SHIMRIN® METALLIC BASES (BC and FBC) Available in coarse or ultra-fine metallic, each offers full coverage in 3-4 coats. Clear for a final finish, or use as a base for Kandys. With their unique chemical make-up, they may be top coated with either acrylic lacquer or urethane enamel. SHIMRIN® KANDY BASE COATS (KBC) Kandy Base Coats are a mixture of Kandy and select Pearls into a SHIMRIN® Universal Base Coat that mimics a Kandy finish. They feature low build, fewer coats, are easy to apply, and touchups are easier than ever. Available in the same great colors as our regular kandys. Due to their unique chemical make-up they may be top coated with either an acrylic lacquer or urethane enamel. I use INTENSIFIER KANDY KONCENTRATE (KK) When painting real fire, Use to enrich any of our Kosmic Kolor Urethane Enamel Kandys or Kustom Kolor Acrylic Lacquer Kandys. Our intensifiers reduce the number of coats required to color match an exterior finish. Works great on door jambs, under the hood and in trunk areas. Is also great for small parts, and motorcycles, when time is a factor. Can also be used with SG100 or our lacquer clears for multi-colored artwork. TACK TACK TACK SG100 between colors. This will protect what art work you have done. Also gives it a semi gloss finish to see the colors. You can also mix some post sand cleaner with some water to give you a peak at what it will look like with clear. INTERCOAT CLEAR (SG100) A protective clear for artwork tape outs on SHIMRIN®Base Coats. May be used to blend SHIMRIN® Pearl and Metallic Base Coats, to mix Pearl and Kandy Koncentrates, and to cut the SHIMRIN‚ base for touchups and blends. NOTE: Use only when top coating with urethane enamel Top Coat POLYURETHANE ENAMEL KLEAR (UC35) UC-35 is a 3.5 VOC, National Rule and SCAQMD Rule 1151 compliant version of UC-1. It may be used to topcoat any urethane or polyurethane enamels, and any SHIMRIN® Base Coat color. UC35 gives a high-gloss, has excellent weathering and UV resistance. UC35 dries fast and hard, and can be colored sanded and buffed the next day Let dry and cure for 24.5 hours... wet sand the bugs out if you did this in your garage...lol I use 1200 then 1400 with Ivory dish soap and lots of water. Running the hose on low over your work is the best unless you have really bad water then you will want to filter or use a bucket of filtered water changing it out often. When you buff use a rough cut compound and work your way to smooth cut compound finishing with a glaze~ I use Meguiars. I don't wax for 2 weeks allowing everything to cure. You really will not need wax at this point anyways. Note to painting in the rain... You really can get a really cool effect with rain. Once the rain drops have beaded up on the base coat use your airbrush and paint a light color of your base in one direction and then come back with a darker color. This will give you that wet look year round! Here in WA it is wet most the time anyways...lol I may have missed somethings. It is late. Hope this helps~ This was before clear and done with KBC. Kandy Base Coats and KK. I would practice before painting real fire on silver.

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