How do I get a "Super" Paint Job

freddmc

I have a Yamaha G-8 that has a "pristine" body. So I want to give it a "super" paint job.

I have painted all my life and have a fairly good Devillbis sprayer (not Hvlp) that I have had for 30 years. I have painted some cars and trucks and always got an "OK" paint job. No runs, minimal orange peel but NOT the shine I would like. Mostly I have used Acrylic Enamel. I have tried PPG, Dupont, Imron, Sikkens and Nason over the years. I have also recently being spraying woodworking projects with lacquer. I have never tried base/clear coat as I didn't want to take that extra step.

But on my cart I would like to get a "show" finish. I presume the way to do this is with base/clear.
If I do use base/clear is it necessary to sand and polish the clear coat? Does this enhance the shine?

Any suggestions (other than to take it to a REAL painter) either on how to use base/clear or some other type of paint are welcome.

Thanks

Fred Mc.

BGW

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mikesmotortoys

It's all in the prep and the finish. ANYONE can shoot primer and color! But to answer your question, "yes", you have to shoot many coats of clear, color sand and buff......

master66

Fred
The answer to one of you're questions is yes, to get the great shine of a show car you need to wet sand and buff "unless you are able to lay down the clear right to the point where it is about to run". The basecoat/clearcoat systems are great to work with because really the only thing you have to worry about is laying down the clear coat, the base part is very easy. I am not sure if the body on you're Yammy is plastic or not but if it is make sure you spray adhesion promoter down first "after scuffing"before applying any paint. I did a sticky about painting plastic bodies so you might want to check that out. Let me know if you have have more questions we are always glad to help.

freddmc

I've been looking at House of Kolor and there seems to be a number of system available including lacquer,Uretane etc.
Have you used their stuff?

Also I was thinking of going with a metalic or metalflake but my previous experience with metalic in single system acrylic enamel didn't turn out as well as I wanted due to there being streaks of metallic due to the application by the operator i.e. me. When using a basecoat is it easier to avoid this problem or is the problem independant of the system.

Within the base coat/clear coat system are there some systems that are easier to use than others?

I realize I'm all over the map here but I'm trying to strike a balance between cost/ability/effort/results.

mikesmotortoys

Painting is an art. I tell you this because I did this just playing around - I shot the flames onto a Black PRIMER cowl that came from a rattle can. Then used Rattle can clear, sanded with 2000, then buffed. There is no base coat color here - It was just the old body set on my roll cage jig that's had 3 years of welding splatter on the plastic! Applying paint is the easy part...

Attached Images

CageJig-3.jpg (151.4 KB, 93 views)

master66

So let me start by saying House of Kolor is a great looking product when done correctly but the margin for error with it alot smaller than regular basecoat mettalic. House of Kolor uses what they call a tri-coat, that means a basecoat, kandy coat" and this is the step where you would get the tiger striping really bad as you spoke of before", and then a clear coat. In my professional opinion unless you are an above average painter with above average equipment I would just stick with the mettalic base/clear system. Dupont and PPG make very good systems and I usually stick with those, but nothing against House of Kolor because it does look awsome.

freddmc

Mikesmotortoys

I agree that painting is an art and I have no illusions that I have that ability. Therefore I won't be attempting anything fancy like flames, murals, etc. But I do think that application of paint,as you describe it, can be mastered through practice and knowhow.

And while I can't gain any practice here I can certainly pick up some know how, which is what I'm attempting to do.

Master66.

Thanks for the warning on House of Color. That is exactly the kind of "know how" I was hoping to get. I am trying to make this as simple as possible while still hoping to get good results. Kinda like trying to drive an F1 Ferrari when you have trouble handling a go cart.

Fred Mc.

mikesmotortoys

I don't know if you got my "point"

What I was attempting to say is that a "super" finish from a paint job can be accomplished mostly AFTER the paint is applied. Of course, the preperation is the key, as well as using quality paints, but with time and elbow grease, anything can be done by the newest of painters. Forget about the graphics, I used that picture to show only the finish I got from a simple rattle can primer, clear, proper "wait time", wet sanding and of course buffing. It's the only Rattle Can paint I've ever done - but the end product looked nice

mikesmotortoys

If you have access to automotive style equipment and automotive quality paints / primer / clear - your end product will always be better and more durable

DOOmsman

A hvlp gun will help with the stripeing it won't blow the paint into dry edges as much,
also a very good dryer is a must for a great paint job.