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Old 01-22-2012, 06:24 PM   #21
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

I like that color.
Good luck.
Post pis. when done.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:16 PM   #22
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

Stick with it, Steve. If you read through my build thread that linked in my sig. (where Master66 and several others so graciously helped me) you'll see that I faced some pretty big obstacles as well, but, most of the ones that kept up with that post can tell you that I was not very patient, but I did finally get through the process. I can also say that for my first job, I'm very proud of the way it turned out. Good luck, and as you've already done, keep asking questions where a good answer is needed. There are plenty of answers from guys with great advice.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:02 PM   #23
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

Thank you for the encouragement. I am now just finishing up with the primer over the "holes". Once I have everything leveled out I will feel much better. Like you said in some of your posts, a lot of these imperfections will be hidden by back seat, spike guards and fender flares.

Question : how should I apply. New clear coat? When I apply last layer of paint or wait 2 to 3 weeks?
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Old 01-23-2012, 07:41 PM   #24
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

If the paint does the wrinkle action again, its much easier to use acetone or MEK and just wipe the paint off. Odds are the spray bombs will not work very well. My first try was just like yours, went thru the same process as you. It looked absolutly fantastic until about about 3 days in the sun. I worked like a fool to get it off the second time. Third time was the charm, I had a buddy paint it with marine topcoat Awlgrip. A little pricey but hard as nails and still looks glossy "wet" after 3 hard years on the NC coast and the blazing southern sun. Just my experience...for whatever that's worth.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:38 PM   #25
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

thank you. I am going with your advice. I can't do this a 3rd time. I live in the coast in Florida. I know a couple of capts. I'll track down awlgrip if it kills me . Haha
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:37 PM   #26
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

Any marine or boat dealer can get it from paxton or most of their suppliers. We painted the last one international orange. That is "dang it orange" if you know what i mean. We are still pleased with the performace of the paint especially since that cart lives on an island and about 100 yards from the ocean. We are in the first steps of stretching our TXT by 30". This cart is going to be painted with Awlcraft 2000 which is the metallic version of awlgrip. Metallic "Dang it Purple" with silver striping.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:50 PM   #27
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

With the awlgrip just scuff up the base material after all the paint has been removed. Wipe well with acetone. This stuff sticks real well but is very thin and tough to spray. Any good boat fiberglass repair shop have the skills and correct type of spraygun. If you do all the hard prep work they should shoot it fairly resonablely. It takes quite a few very thin coats with just a few minutes between coats. When shooting several parts the wait in minimal due to moving from part to part. Thin light coats... One more time...Thin light coats. FYI Be prepared for sticker shock because this stuff ain't cheap but if it can take the beating and flexing a boat gives it then our carts are no match for it.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:37 AM   #28
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

so I was just curious were you using acrylic enamel primer, color and clear? I know you are going with a different system but like I said I was just curious because if we can figure out why it happened we might be able to help someone else in the future when they are reading the posts.
Also if the paint and primer is really not sticking you can remove it sometimes with a pressure washer.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:06 AM   #29
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

A lot of times it's because, on plastic bodies they have a lot of oil and silicone. When sanding any plastic parts down before painting you should wet sand with a scotchbrite soaking the scotchbrite with ajax or lemon dishwashing soap while wet sanding. It pulls all silicone and oils out of the body. Armerall is very hard to get off bodies because, it has a lot of oils and silicones in it. The best way to sand down the bad areas all the way down to the bodies surface and wash down with ajax or dishwashing soap and let dry for a day and spot paint the areas that are bad. make sure you don't tape off areas. just try to blend.

Last edited by XtremeGolfCarts; 01-25-2012 at 09:06 AM.. Reason: misspelled
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:23 PM   #30
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Default Re: Help! Paint and clear coat question.

Okay, Here are the steps that I took when redo my paint.

Step 1) Sanded with mouse sander 300 grit approx.
Step 2) Hand sand w/ 3M 600.
Step 3) Wipe Surface with Rustoleum Wax and Tar Remover
Step 4) Applied 3 coats of Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter
Step 5) This is where I may have gone wrong...
I used Rustoleum Painters Touch Primer. 3 or 4 coats.
Step 6) I used Rustoleum Painters Touch Gloss Real Orange. 4-5 Coats.
Step 7) Sanded to 1500 grit,
Step Sanded w/ 2000 grit.

I then waited 5 days before appling Rustoleum Clear Coat Primer for Enamel.

Then it happened. What might have happened as I used clean rags to clean after sanding, these are my general purpose rags, I may have used them before for tire cleaning.

Does anyone think there might be a problem w/ Rustoleum Painters touch? It says that it bonds to plastic, but I got it from home depot. I guess you could just blame it on the bomb can.

Well, lastly, I have repainted, and am back to where I was before clear coat disaster. I'm thinking about waiting 30 days before clear coat (let it dry with out question), or could there still be chemicals trapped from original sanding?
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