Engine dying vc460

general01

I set the valve lash and it ran like a raped ape but lately I have been having a issue where I can drive the cart varying lengths of time and it will suddenly lose power and die

Weird thing is I first thought I had the valve lash at incorrect spec but no luck

I drove it today for awhile(roughly a half hour) then let it sit for a bit then I went back out and drove it some more(was going to a local lake) well I didn't even get a half mile from my house till it lost power and died(no fuel in the lines when it did this)

I managed to get fuel back in the lines by working the clutch back and forth till the pump filled the lines and it started up

Weird thing was I had less power(could only top out at 22 mph pulling a hill whereas I normally can do 25-27 on the same hill) engine temp was in normal range(100 degrees head temp)

It has been doing this multiple times and is bugging me to death and making not want to drive my cart(something I enjoy doing) and I have had thoughts of going electric(shudders at the thought)

Any help getting it to not do this would be great

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

KRAZYMATT

Really hope you find a solution to this, I am 99.9% sure you're experiencing the same EXACT problem I have with my predator 420cc an I've gone nuts trying to find the cause for the past 3 years!!!

general01

I am temped of putting a electric fuel pump on it just to see if it helps(you can get small ones)

I sure hope someone jumps in and helps us out with this issue

Yamahama

What fuel pump are you using and what's your pulse source?

general01

Stock club car pump(which has been trouble free before with the same engine)

Pulse is from the isolater that Vegas carts installed between the carb and he block

I do have a spare pump if this one is possibly going bad

I have a service manual for the club car ds cart and it shows the spark plug as being a possible culprit(mind that the plug I am using now was of unknown age when I put it in the engine)

Could a bad plug cause this same issue as it ran fine till it got summer but it ran fine back in the winter and spring

Shepard

I have noticed from all the reading that many have problems with the manual vacuum operated fuel pump. I've counted 12 hose clamps on one man's cart, 12 points of trouble. Vacuum operated anything - pumps - wipers and brakes went out in the 50's and were replaced by dependable 12 volt items. I use a 12 volt 3-5 psi fuel pump on my G2 and have no problems - no overflow - no leaks and best of all no lean issues.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-Univ...VV1FQf&vxp=mtr

Vacuum pumps are great if you have no power supply. If you use a vacuum pump keep it as low as possible, bottom of the tank low. G2 has the fuel pickup on the bottom inside of the tank and has fuel to the pump almost all the time till you get lower then 1.5-2 gallons of gas. With a fuel filter in line I have 5 clamps or 5 points of possible trouble. I have had great results with the pump I replaced -- good bye vacuum issues. General01 do your best to keep the electric pump as low as you can get it in your carts design.

slonomo

Bad plug won't cause loss of fuel in lines. Change the pump. Make sure ALL of your fuel lines and vacuum lines are soft and pliable, and also make sure they fit tightly on all the fittings.

Also check the pulse line fitting where it meets the isolator. They have a habit of cracking there. Could be a leak.

I run standard rubber fuel line and vacuum line on mine with an off the shelf Mikuni Briggs and Stratton fuel pump. Never an issue.

slonomo

12v fuel pumps work great, however, the clone engine carburetor is designed to work with gravity feed and the needle/seat might be over powered by the pressure of the pump (even low pressure pumps). Make sure to route a "T" fitting in front of the carb with a return fuel line back to the pump. This will eliminate excessive pressure and flooding. I usually use one size smaller line for the return....example: if your lines are 3/8", use 1/4" for the return line. This allows a small amount of pressure build up in the line in front of the "T" fitting, and helps supply the carb with fuel.

rccub23

do as slo says and check the pulse fitting.

general01

I will pull the isolator off and check the fitting if it is cracked I will likely get a small 12volt pump and connect it so it only kicks on when the engine is running

Will update after I check the isolator