Aussie Speed Valve Cover Gasket

Shepard

Some operators have moved on to a performance valve cover from Aussie Speed. Mostly because of the needed clearance for roller rocker assemblies. Some just they want to cool there engine better. The edge of this valve cover is way thicker then the stamped steel version. I used a steel valve cover with a new gasket -- held it down on a hard surface and cut the outside lip of the gasket off. The cut gasket now lays down on the proper surface flat and may even stay in place by itself.

Now if you look at the tin valve cover you'll notice a notch in the carburetor side of the cover. It fits in a notch in the head -- you need to enlarge that notch with a dremel -- don't go crazy but widen it by .050-.100 and deepen it about the same -- otherwise you'll have to notch your brand new valve cover.. Will post more pictures in next post.

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BGW

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Shepard

In the one picture I installed a PCV in a threaded reducer. It's a check valve type. If you look you can see where the little notch is right at the end od the carb stud. I didn't make any cuts on my cover.

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raydhd

I did it a little differently. I took the dremel and relieved the raised area of the head. I still use the stock valve cover gasket secured to the cover with some permatex high tack sealer. I find this makes it very easy to align the cover to the head. I have had zero leaks with numerous valve clearance checks. And so far I only had to reglue the gasket once.

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Shepard

OK -- everybody wants a little more horsepower. I do and I'll share a proven way to get it cheap.
When you think of you engine think of an air compressor. The area under the piston/crankcase. Every time the piston goes up it pulls in some air through the vent in the valve cover. The seal in the valve cover vent isn't that good to stop all air from come in. Now when the piston comes back down into the cylinder and crankcase at BDC -- it pushes a small a mount of air back out of the engine. Break this cycle and create a vacuum in the crankcase -- then the piston travels easier not fighting itself. Too much crankcase pressure can lead to oil leaks.
You need to put a check valve in the valve cover to let out any pressure and not let anything [air] back in. This allows the piston to bounce in a vacuum.
In the picture the check valve is in a stainless steel 3/8 street ell -- 3/8 pipe thread to a 3/8" hose barb with a filter.

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BrutalSoldier

Link to that valve cover please.

Shepard

I just checked and they don't have any like I have at this time. Ebay is where I got mine.

BrutalSoldier

That's probably why I couldn't find it either oh well

jjastram

Small Town Speed has them, that is where I bought mine. http://www.smalltownspeed.com/store/...ver_GX390.html

If you want a 3/8 threaded PCV valve look for one for a 66-67 Chevelle, Camaro, or Corvette

raydhd

Cory goes on and off ebay but seems to be at his small town speed site most of the time. You also talk to him or his wife at the listed phone# I actually bought mine over the phone. 972-989-4003 One other note here. I was afraid with the vibration of the clone engine to mount PCV valves or breather filters directly to the somewhat expensive valve cover. So I used a 1/8 npt air fitting tapped into the cover and ran hose down towards the transaxle where I mounted the one valve. See page 18 of my 460 build.

Shepard

I saved my e bay bucks and paid 48 dollars for one, 46 for the other. I will not challenge what others are using - I used 3/8" pipe so the I.D. was as equal to the original port in the tin valve as possible. I last I wanted to do was create a restriction in the flow path. It would defeat the purpose of what I did.