Lonestar G1 Build

yamahag1cart · 11-18-2017, 12:33 PM

Hey all!

Please join me as I re-power an old gas cart. I do not have a definitive plan or vision for the build other than to get the cart up and running again. Tons of ideas brewing but value the input and am open to suggestions from the community here! Here we go!

I picked up a 1979 Yamaha G1 J10 cart from a neighbor for free who had bought a new cart for the property and this one was just sitting with a bad solenoid and they just wanted off their property!

After attempting to start it with the not burnt up solenoid in the forward position, I was able to determine that both solenoids were bad but successfully lunged the cart forward with the starter/generator motor test!

I am the proud father of a new little 5 month old girl and she and her mom are the greatest joys of my life, but that being said my budget for beer, guns, golf carts or pretty much anything fun including this build is effectively $0 lol.

yamahag1cart · 11-18-2017, 12:39 PM

Following up from another thread I had started, I have listed my top 3 contenders for the engine swap. I am leaning hard toward the Duromax.. Electric start and the highest HP output for the price.

Please let me know your thoughts and experiences with swapping these, your input is appreciated!

Irontron (500hr) 420 12HP Pullstart $219 Northern Tool
Lifan 420 15HP Pullstart $299 Ebay
Duromax 440 18HP E. Start $319 Walmart

Skoal82 · 11-18-2017, 12:59 PM

The problem you will run into is reverse.
The old g1 ran forwards and reverse thru the engine, not the transaxle.
Unless you are willing to find a newer 4 stroke cart rear end (transaxle) or live without reverse I would try to fix the original engine

raydhd · 11-18-2017, 01:05 PM

Whichever one you buy I would beef up the valve train with a set of Vegascarts shaft rockers , HD push rods and valve springs as the valve train is the weak link in these engine. I would also check if the valve spring retainer on the intake valve has a lash cap. Again this would be another way to insure you have a very durable valve train for not a lot of money.

yamahag1cart · 11-18-2017, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skoal82

The problem you will run into is reverse.
The old g1 ran forwards and reverse thru the engine, not the transaxle.
Unless you are willing to find a newer 4 stroke cart rear end (transaxle) or live without reverse I would try to fix the original engine

Thanks Skoal!

I am willing to lose reverse, I don't mind shuffling things around lol :)

yamahag1cart · 11-18-2017, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raydhd

Whichever one you buy I would beef up the valve train with a set of Vegascarts shaft rockers , HD push rods and valve springs as the valve train is the weak link in these engine. I would also check if the valve spring retainer on the intake valve has a lash cap. Again this would be another way to insure you have a very durable valve train for not a lot of money.

I may have to do that Ray, I wish I could afford one of the VC 460's! If money were no object I'd go with their 25HP in a heartbeat. I have checked out the vegas carts website and seems pretty awesome. I will consider the valve train upgrades for sure!

yamahag1cart · 11-18-2017, 07:17 PM

Just last night I pulled the final engine parts and the motor mount from the cart and can now see what I am working with. It was nice out today and I was able to get after the rolling frame with the pressure washer. Hit the frame and the body pieces with my foam cannon and chemical guys honeydew soap then scrubbed everything thoroughly with a deck brush. Note the Texas A&M Aggies themed paint job and bumper sticker!

Any recommendations on how to clean up and paint over the rusty stuff? I'm not looking to do anything too crazy but just kinda clean it up with something black in a rattle can.

Also wondering about how to mount the new motor, I know most people just drill and bolt theirs to a steel plate attached to the rear end / swing arm. My question is can I bolt the steel plate to the original mount bolts that are sticking out? I do not have a welder but could figure something out if it needs to be burnt in.

Let me see your motor mounts for inspiration!

sho305 · 11-18-2017, 09:31 PM

I'd probably do the frame with rustoleum or similar and a brush, you get no overspray and it would get you a heavier coating with no waste. Since you have it all apart it would be easy. The body is fiberglass, you can paint that just like a car or actually like an old corvette.

Either you buy a mount or make one, whatever works out best for you. Note the new engine will have to be placed to line up with the trans via belt, and may need a different belt size.

I doubt the duromax has 3 more horsepower but anything is possible. Do you plan to lift it at some point?

yamahag1cart · 11-18-2017, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sho305

I'd probably do the frame with rustoleum or similar and a brush, you get no overspray and it would get you a heavier coating with no waste. Since you have it all apart it would be easy. The body is fiberglass, you can paint that just like a car or actually like an old corvette.

Either you buy a mount or make one, whatever works out best for you. Note the new engine will have to be placed to line up with the trans via belt, and may need a different belt size.

I doubt the duromax has 3 more horsepower but anything is possible. Do you plan to lift it at some point?

Great call on the rusto! I've had some great results with rolling and tipping on fiberglass with a little thinner and catalyst hardener. Do I have to do anything with the rust or ok to just brush over?

I'm cool with making up a mount, I just need to determine if I can use the OE bolts to secure a steel plate.

Below are some of the specs on the motor, maybe they get 18hp because of the larger 440cc displacement? Love the 21 ft/lb of torque too!

Displacement: 440cc Bore: 92, Stroke: 66.
Max Output: 18.0 HP / 3600 RPM.
Max Torque: 21.0 ft/lb.
Shaft Size: 1" Diameter, 2 ¾” Long, ¼” Keyway,
Shaft End: 3/8” Size 24 UNF - Drilled and Tapped
Measurement from Center of Shaft to Base: 5"
Dimensions Of Unit: 16.4L x 17.9W x17.4H
Fuel Tank Capacity: 1.7 Gallons
Average Run Time: 1/2 Gallon Per Hour (at 1/2 load)
Dry Weight: 77 lbs
Recommended Fuel Type: Gasoline - 87 Octane Rating Or Better

sho305 · 11-18-2017, 09:59 PM

B&S lied about HP and lost in court, they were so inept they would not rate HP on their own engines for years after that. Have to wonder what clueless people who make engines think some times, oh wait, likely it was the marketing people not the engine making people. The Chinese don't care just try to get them in court they will laugh at you and change name of the company ten times, they say whatever they need to so I would not take it as solid ratings. The honda gx390 was 13hp, its very likely the 420 is the same maybe a hair more but more torque. 10% more displacement is not going to change HP much at all. On the other hand they do rev more, they will pull to 4300 when you take the governor off and higher if you put a few cheap parts on like $20 HD springs. Then if you rated one over 3600 rpm it would certainly pull more HP than 13. Now some other lawn engines are already losing power at 3600 and would not pull more at 3700. The ports are good size, that is why it is fairly easy to get more power/rpm out of them with mods.

11-18-2017, 12:59 PM	#3
Skoal82 Gone Wild Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Central mn Posts: 1,036	Re: Lonestar G1 Build The problem you will run into is reverse. The old g1 ran forwards and reverse thru the engine, not the transaxle. Unless you are willing to find a newer 4 stroke cart rear end (transaxle) or live without reverse I would try to fix the original engine

11-18-2017, 01:05 PM	#4
raydhd VC 460 CLONE GONE WILD Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Ray BY The Bay NJ Posts: 10,639	Re: Lonestar G1 Build Whichever one you buy I would beef up the valve train with a set of Vegascarts shaft rockers , HD push rods and valve springs as the valve train is the weak link in these engine. I would also check if the valve spring retainer on the intake valve has a lash cap. Again this would be another way to insure you have a very durable valve train for not a lot of money.

11-18-2017, 09:31 PM	#8
sho305 Vegas modded 420 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: West MI Posts: 15,443	Re: Lonestar G1 Build I'd probably do the frame with rustoleum or similar and a brush, you get no overspray and it would get you a heavier coating with no waste. Since you have it all apart it would be easy. The body is fiberglass, you can paint that just like a car or actually like an old corvette. Either you buy a mount or make one, whatever works out best for you. Note the new engine will have to be placed to line up with the trans via belt, and may need a different belt size. I doubt the duromax has 3 more horsepower but anything is possible. Do you plan to lift it at some point?

11-18-2017, 09:59 PM	#10
sho305 Vegas modded 420 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: West MI Posts: 15,443	Re: Lonestar G1 Build B&S lied about HP and lost in court, they were so inept they would not rate HP on their own engines for years after that. Have to wonder what clueless people who make engines think some times, oh wait, likely it was the marketing people not the engine making people. The Chinese don't care just try to get them in court they will laugh at you and change name of the company ten times, they say whatever they need to so I would not take it as solid ratings. The honda gx390 was 13hp, its very likely the 420 is the same maybe a hair more but more torque. 10% more displacement is not going to change HP much at all. On the other hand they do rev more, they will pull to 4300 when you take the governor off and higher if you put a few cheap parts on like $20 HD springs. Then if you rated one over 3600 rpm it would certainly pull more HP than 13. Now some other lawn engines are already losing power at 3600 and would not pull more at 3700. The ports are good size, that is why it is fairly easy to get more power/rpm out of them with mods.

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