EZGO Workhorse Predator Clone Install

hightide610

Hello all, joined this site a few days ago and I think I have read thru about 200 threads on clone swaps and build threads trolling for answers to questions I didn't even know I had until I started reading. There is a wealth of knowledge here and now that I have brain matter leaking from my ears and nose it’s probably time to ask a few questions .

First... please forgive the "newbie" questions. And to level set this thread I want to clarify the goal. This is my in-laws golf cart, the stock robins motor gave up the ghost a couple of months ago. I was initially going to rebuild it and after looking at complete rebuild kits (then realizing I am in the wrong industry because those guys HAVE to HAVE $60M super yachts and live on private islands given what they are charging), then contacting my local machine shop and talking to a few folks that seem to be rebuilding them more frequently than I would expect, I started looking at doing a motor swap. The cost was not a lot more to swap than a rebuild and accessibility to parts seems to be much easier and a lot less expensive long term. The intent isn't to make massive power, they are retired and in their 70's. If I want to hit a mud hole, trail ride or top 65mph I have a machine to do that... this is for them to ride around the farm, go to the mailbox, garden etc etc... So performance upgrades aren't of any interest.

Right, wrong or indifferent it was either going to be a HF 420 Predator or a Honda GX390. Maybe the decision to go down the HF route was misguided long term but nonetheless it was significantly cheaper and the agreement I made with the in-laws was that you buy the motor, I'll buy the conversion kit and install it.

Soo… got online and ordered the Vegas Carts Big Block Install/Conversion Kit and started tearing everything down last weekend.

Super impressed with the kit overall... sub-frame is in place, un-crated the new motor, pulled the OEM tank off, exhaust, air cleaner and starter and installed the plate.

Installed the starter/gen pulley and clutch as per their instructions and hit my first snag... When torqueing down the clutch something didn't seem quite right, how the heck I managed this I am not sure... but apparently the key wasn't seated exactly how it needed to be. Outside of the pulley not being fully seated, I am able to shim the starter/gen and align the belt/pulleys and drive belt. But the OCD in me wants to pull it off and make it right, however I am a bit nervous to put a puller on that aluminum pulley. Anyone have any advice there?

Next little dilemma, common sense tells me the header has got to be supported but the bolt does not exist on the bottom side of the head to use the existing support bracket, so... anyone see an issue with me using the one here pictured? Obviously I can cut and reweld the bracket (although I hate messing up the nice powdercoated finish it has)

Next question.. reading thru countless threads on carbs for these motors, I am still a bit confused, so I will ask a direct question. With no motor modifications, will the existing carb work in this application? Or maybe a more specific question, it sounds like (and common sense would also support) the likelihood of needing to adjust air/fuel mixture due to exhaust and air box changes (albeit mild) necessitates it. Or.. is the adjustment screw actually hiding out behind the plug I have read about in the carb? ** Pic with the red circle around it?

I was also concerned about the choke on this since adding the airbox that comes with the vegas kit renders it completely useless (not VC's fault at all as I am sure there are 50,000 iterations of this motor monthly) so I ordered the
Honda 16590-ZE2-812 Stay Choke Control and an extended cable, so I am thinking that I just remove the existing choke lever and the install of the Honda part becomes self explanatory?

And then the last an final question for the day (ok, maybe for the next hour ) Does anyone have recent pictures of throttle linkage and how they hooked it up? The linkage from the pedal is a pull so the cable is going to have to come around from the back side of the cart in the direction of the arrow "I believe", but for whatever reason I am having an unusually difficult time visualizing this... every other picture I have found here is coming from the front side of the cart.

TIA for any advice!

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GaSwamper

Will be following, getting ready to do a 420 swap in a 97 ezgo myself.

raydhd

You should be able to pull the clutch back off by hand as there is no taper. I think the the way you have it installed something is going to be damaged. I would also think about using the VC adjustable carb and throttle cable bracket to simplify the last part of your install. P.S. VC has some pretty good installation pics for the various carts on there site.

hightide610

Thanks Ray!! I’m going to do that... no clue how it happened, it was weird. I am teetering on the VC carb as well, prolly looked at it 15 times today. I did talk to them a few days ago on the bracket and they don’t have any advice there except “have you looked at the BGW forum?” I’ve got the install manual for the kit which is awesome, but to their defense it can’t cover all the clone variations out there so I was hoping for some help here.

I’ll figure it out... but was just looking for a little insight from the gurus.


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Shepard

Check the ends of the key stock. You will need to grind to fit the inside end of the key to fit the key groove cut in the crankshaft . Look at page 15 to see what you need to do. I know it says CC but it works for Ezgo also.

http://teknaspace.com/vegascarts/ins...s/Club-Car.pdf

Rooster59

Installing the choke plate will be a no brainer. The stock plastic choke lever should pull off the shaft straight up. The plate goes between the carb and filter. You will have to depress the plate lever against the spring to get the pin under the lever to insert into the slot on top of the choke shaft connector. You will see what I mean.

You will have to do a little fabricating for the throttle cable connector and finish the exhaust bracing. Few setups are free of a little fabricating.

The carb without idle mix adjuster may not be an issue if you maintain pedal start. Idle mix can be an issue with a cart that is key start set up to idle. The stock engine would have been setup lean like my TXT was. You just have to use the choke to start more often if the idle mix is lean on a pedal start cart. Some of us can get too wound up about idle mixture but that is due to being key start with idling.

GaSwamper

Like the idea of the Honda choke control now that I look at it. Already been frowning at that plastic lever that comes on it lol

hightide610

Thank you Shepard, I have their install guide and the pages in that area are almost identical. Only thing that isn't clear is exactly how far back that pulley should be against the shaft. All the way to where it tapers out? The key stock fit perfectly into the shaft as they described, the pulley seemed to slide back to a natural spot on the shaft and fitment seemed spot on. It happened when I was torquing the clutch down. I hope to try and give it another go later today and see about getting that re-seated.

hightide610

Thank you Rooster, it seems to be straightforward.

I knew there would be an amount of fabricating that I would have to do, but VC did such a nice job on the exhaust powdercoating that part will just hurt my heart , but alas... I have read way too many threads here about attempts to quiet down exhausts and the lengthy battles they have faced, I really have way too many other projects going on to deal with that for the next 6 months.

It will maintain the pedal start, I need it to be as stock acting as I can make it and as LOW maintenance as possible. I spent a good portion of the day looking for electric choke setups to make that part a little simpler for mom and dad, but really didn't find anything worth the cost so just decided "manual it will be".

Shepard

Picture 3 -- the plug doesn't cover the air/fuel screw. The air/fuel screw is the one in front of that plug. I just put a 420 predator hemi in my tractor and it has the same carburetor. The screw is been sealed after it's been adjusted -- then the head of the screw is broken off. I replaced the carb before I started it.