Using stock clutch on clone

Jackofall

Putting in duromax 16 hp in g2. Going to use stock clutch. I have adapter for it. Mighty long bolt. The shaft part that sticks out is 2.75 inches. I know it needs to be cut down, drilled, and I tapped. Any advice, help on it. If I remove the shaft and take it to shop what am I looking at as far as doing that.

BGW

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raydhd

I run the VC 460 with the comet 780 so I will defer that one to someone who has actually done it. I hope you got the steel adapter rather than the aluminum unit. Also at a minimum I would use VC's engine plate and S/G mount to minimize installation woes and potential crank case destruction from a improperly mounted S/G.

Shepard

By the time you go through all that you'll wish you bought a comet 780 instead of mounting the used up stock clutch. Why are you replacing the engine? The clutch has just as much time on it so it's pretty used up. Once you go through all of this work and your dissatisfied you'll have to replace the crankshaft to use any other.

Jackofall

I say it is stock but it isn't. Stock as what was on it when I got it. It is a comet brand. Not sure which one. I has the pulley on it. Very simple inside.

sho305

I did two of them, 420 clones. The stock clutch works great on a stock 420 if you want the cart to work like it has stock....except have a lot more power. I don't know about a replacement. So I would agree make sure the clutch is good, if its worn out you are better to address that now.

What I did is cut the crank off to 1 1/8" long of the 1" diameter part. You have to drill the hole deeper and then tap it, its not hard I wacked it off with an air grinder, you can also hack saw it with some elbow grease, or sawzall it. Wrap tape around it and follow that with the saw. Reason you cut it shorter on a G2 or G9 is you don't have much room to the fuel tank if you want to keep the recoil on for emergency starting. Or you can leave it longer and space out the adapter, its about 1" long and 1 1/8 max length for the crank or you have to spacer it. Most come with a spacer. Then you stick the clutch on like normal. IIRC and maybe wrong but it was a 1/2-20 fine thread in my G9.

What I did is sat the engine in the foam it came in on the recoil, and hand drilled the tap size deeper, measuring how far. Then I sat it on the foot and cut it off. Then I tapped the new thread in it. It was off a little. The second one I kept moving around the engine as I drilled it and that one came out pretty straight lol. They both work fine the bolt goes through a lot of air before it gets to the crank anyway. You always drill on an angle with a hand drill, that is why moving around helps. Its the taper that keeps the clutch straight.

Then you have to align the clutches on your new mount, its a really good idea to measure it all and straight edge it before you do the swap, is what I did, and was able to run the same distance and belt as stock. It worked like a charm. All the details are in here: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/clone...-clone-bb.html

Now the first clone I had rebuilt the stock clutch, back then you could buy the sheave reasonable. That cart is still running great today. The second one I later modded the engine, modded the clutch for more rpm but it refused at some point. Then put a replacement ezgo 94c on it. 94C has the pucks in it, pound on the puller bolt and the cover falls off to get at the pucks and spring, some replacements are 94c. Its the same as yamaha but the taper is deeper in the clutch, which gives me more room on the recoil side. I had to redrill my mount but then later I found the belt was too tight and could not move the engine it was hitting the trans. I had to use a scrambler belt and move it away from the trans, but its working really well now. I managed 41mph gps the other day with a vegas cam and rod in it. Most importantly it has enough power to spin the tires some, I rarely go that fast with it. But the stock 420 had roughly twice the power of stock engine.

Jackofall

Got it down. Went with a 1/4 inch wide belt. At idle the cart wants to go. I repositioned the motor back a little. It still does it not as bad. Do I need to move it back some more or is there an adjustment I can do on the transaxle

sho305

Have to move the motor. I think the hd kevlar belt is 1.25 also it wants to drag. However if you got a new belt they are sticky for a while so don't go crazy until you get a couple hours on it. I know the 1.25 belt fits a worn clutch pretty nice better than stock, but a new primary may not like it I can't run it on my new 94c. In fact I ended up having to move the motor it needed a shorter belt than the stock G9 clutch.

The only other thing you can do it make a spacer to go in the secondary to keep the sheaves apart just a tiny bit, but I don't recommend. I did it because I have a cut sheave and had problems and wanted to know if that affected it, so I made a nylon washer to go in there and return it to stock width. It worked, then took it back out once I figured it all out. But you will lose your lowest gearing if you do that, a cut sheave gives a lower initial gear for towing and take off by letting them closer together....and also tightens the belt a little because it sticks out the top of the sheaves. A 1.25 belt does it a little also, but also affects your primary as you see.

yamahag1cart

Post some pics yo!

Jackofall

A few of the pictures. Haven't taken any since I cleaned it up some more or put the new motor in. I will try to remember to get some this weekend.

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yamahag1cart

Would love to see that transformation!