Belt slip help

BuggieMaverick

I’m running a 420cc clone in a Club Car DS. Drive belt is pretty new, the primary clutch is in good shape with a recently install 200 rpm spring from CPP, and the driven clutch has new polymer wear nubs. The problem I’m having is belt slip on hard acceleration or steep hills. The 200 rpm spring helped but the slip is still there.

I tried a power spring in the driven clutch and the slip went away completely. However, it makes the clutches very slow to shift so I lose the good acceleration that I gained with the big block. The engine runs at governed rpm while the clutches slowly upshift.

I tried re-clocking the driven clutch, including by drilling new holes to get more spring tension. It’s better than stock positioning but I still get slip.

Anyone have any suggestions? Does anyone make a medium duty stock style spring for the driven clutch?

Edit: I’m also running stock tires so I don’t necessarily need the full torque of the power spring.

BGW

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BuggieMaverick

I think I got it figured out. I was looking at parts diagrams for a new stock spring when it hit me. I have to confess it’s idiot error. My cart originally had the early series 7/8” belt and clutches that were worn out. I converted it to a 1” setup with a new drive clutch and a lightly used driven clutch. That was back when I still had the original engine in it. I never bothered to check if the driven clutch was for clockwise or counter clockwise. I had just assumed the seller had sold me the right part. Turns out my driven clutch is for a clockwise engine so the spring is wound opposite of what I need, and is preloaded the wrong direction.

I put the power spring back in until I have the correct parts.

Rooster59

Thanks for the follow up. And kudos for checking the things you thought were right. But turned out to be the culprit. Well done.

BuggieMaverick

As another update, I dug up my original 7/8” (or was it 15/16”?) driven clutch. Sure enough, the spring and preload is opposite of my 1” clutch so I was running with the wrong driven clutch setup. I decided to try the original clutch even though the buttons are worn and the spring is obviously weak from decades of use.

Turns out the original driven clutch works great with the clone. The belt sits a tiny bit higher due to the 1/8” or 1/16” width difference, so it’s almost like a machined clutch on takeoff. Then it upshifts quickly and allows the engine to run at a mellow cruising rpm thanks to the weak spring. Best of all, the belt has zero slip. It’ll allow the tires to spin if the hill is steep enough..

The original clutch was awful with the 8hp KF82 due to its quick upshifting but its near perfect with the extra power of the clone. I’ll have to invest in new buttons for it and hope it lasts for a long time.