Another Clone Swap

jwhranger

First off, thanks to everyone on here who has helped me keeping that old motor running, but I finally blew it this weekend. It developed an oil leak and locked up. Parts from it may be available, I'll post as soon as I know.

Anyway, starting a swap this weekend. Found a greyhound 389CC harbor freight motor on clearance in fort worth for around $200, let me know if you want details, I will tell you where to get one or help you get one shipped.

I've got a CPP engine cradle, CPP clutch adapter on its way, a fridge full of beer and a buddy to help.

I plan on posting pics and questions, so stay tuned please so I don't try and use duct tape for the throttle cable or a hammer to fine tune the carburetor!

I have read a ton of posts on this, but reading and doing are two different things. Still have to throw in that the firewall at my work blocks this site, but not some of the others, so if anyone knows a mirror site or back entry let me know so I can spend less time working and more time doing what I want to!

Lastly, the swap is GOING (I'm motivated) to happen in a yamaha G9 with a 6 inch jakes lift with new starter and new CPP performance clutch. Secondary looks good, but I bought a cheap torque spring, and even with a stock motor that was tired and worn out, it would climb anything. However, the belts would not fully open/close respectively. I think its the cheap spring, so that will be replaced as well and we will see if that fixes that problem.

I will try and post responses to questions as I go, as I will have tons of questions I'm sure. Thanks in advance!

I will do my homework and read Sho's clone thread several times over.

BGW

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jackel440

I will be following this closely as I am getting ready to do the same thing to my G9.good luck to ya and definitely post lots of pictures

sho305

I doubt you need a torque spring at all with a clone, at least the 16 I did does not. Stock clutch with the CPP adapter works but aftermarket one you could get a harder takeoff I am sure. You can still use the adapter and aftermarket cart clutch to keep the generator if you want, for charging and/or starting. Have to watch the carb/airbox clearance to the rear shock on a G9 I found, there is hardly room I cut near 2" off the crank, left only minimum 1.125 of crank and used adapter and stock clutch, the recoil just fits, stock belt, had to mod the airbox to a pvc that I ran to a car airbox. The gen fits nicely in there. Power is about double but top speed about the same with 16hp it might be more with a 13.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...-thread-3.html

jwhranger

Thanks Sho. Will be keeping starter/generator for sure.

Was thinking about just putting the stock spring back in to see what happens, no need to put money in to the spring until I know for sure thats the problem right?

My concern is will the cart idle at all times (with HF motor's key on)? Or will I need to adjust the idle down so it dies like a stock when the pedal is not depressed at all?

Probably possible to do both, but what should I be aiming for? I don't really have a preference, but maybe to have it idle at all times...doesn't matter really to me.

I have a grinder and a sawsall to cut the crank, just can't wait to get started!

sho305

The problem with idle is stock yami clutches drag on the belt and make the cart want to move. You really need a clutch with the bearing in the center or at least a spring so it engages at higher rpm than idle like stock. The only yami clutch with spring is the original G1.

Right now I have that one with the idle off to kill it, but if the throttle ever stuck that would be bad. So I have a relay I will run off the ignition power that will short the clone ignition when it loses power....killing it. The lawn engines you just ground the ignition to kill the magneto, which is actually what a coil on the flywheel is that runs the plug directly with no other power. Had it for a while just no time to get it on there. The key is still on the engine it and the clone starter work fine, the key is always on to run. It works just like stock with the generator, with a good muffler you can hardly tell what is in there, it starts just like a stock cart.

jwhranger

Running like stock would be great too, so thats what I'll shoot for.

Question:

Can I run the pulse line for the fuel pump off the air cleaner breather hose? Or should I just drill a new one?

See pic.

Attached Images

air box.jpg (8.2 KB, 41 views)

Black Thunder

Subscribed! Going to have to do the same on my g9.

jwhranger

Well...when taking the governor out I did something to the inner workings of the crank, other gears. Got my clutch on and everything. Did a test pull to be sure it turned over right, motor is locked. So I guess tomorrow morning I will be taking the motor apart instead of putting it in the cart first thing.

Another thing I'm going to have to do is fab the mount for the stock clutch/generator. Other than that this has been a really easy project. Was wondering when it would start getting interesting!

jackel440

I hope you are taking pics
Man, that seems strange that it is locked up from just removing the governor.Hope you get her figured out.I know i kind of hate to take my new engine apart to remove mine,but oh well.
Glad to see your getting some progress

jwhranger

Took motor back apart, piece of plastic from governor appeared to have slipped by and was jamming a gear.

Motor now spins freely, but can't get the clutch on. It will not go past the adapter to get close enough to the crank so that the clutches line up.

Been banging on it, have the CPP adapter, not sure what else to do.

Probably going to have to take it to a machine shop and see if they can hollow out the clutch a little??

Please help! Probably less than two inches of crankshaft left, but can't make the clutch slide any further. Once the clutch slides to the point on the crankshaft where the shaft goes from 1" to what I assume is 1 and 1/8" the clutch will not go any further.

The clutch is the performance clutch from CPP that worked great on my stock Yami motor.