Duromax won't turn off

spudd001

I am complete with the build but I can't figure out the wiring to be able to kill the engine. Called max tool and they swear the wiring diagram was included, but... It's not. I have tried almost every setup possible and can't figure it out. Can anyone help? Currently have the blue wire to the to blade connector on solenoid, stud connector to the front stud on solenoid, brown to brown, solid black to solid black, black /stripe to yellow which connects to double female.

BGW

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jackel440

I haven't gotten that far yet on my swap,but I would say some pics might help figure it out.

turboaz2

Find the wire that comes from the coil, not the plug wire. It will be a small wire. You ground that to kill the engine. You can use a relay, a kill switch or a magneto ignition switch.

spudd001

Thanks Turbo, I'll check it out when I get home tonight. Jackel, my wife is out of town with the camera and I plan on posting all my build pics when my wife returns.

spudd001

Well, grounding that wire will kill the engine whether the key is in the on or off position. Any other ideas?

turboaz2

Of course it will, the switch isn't connected to the wire.

Look here http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/big-b...g-diagram.html

I laid out the switch wiring. The Magneto ignition switch has 6 wires, not the 3 you are probably using.

You can also use a simple kill switch. or a 5 wire relay. WIth the kill switch you run one wire to ground and one wire to the coil. Flip the switch, the engine dies. Flip it back the engine will start. With the Relay you will have a normally open and a Normally closed side. so, you run the normally closed side to the coil and the switch part to the coil. SO, when there is no power to the relay it ground the coils. Problem with that is if the battery is dead, you can't pull start it.

spudd001

Problem solved! Thanks for all the help!!! Guess it would be helpful if I actually went to the big block section...

turboaz2

The above should read "so, you run the normally closed side to the coil and the switch part to ground".

You can wire it this way, but I still recommend the correct Magneto switch.

Glad to her you got it squared away.

spudd001

Problem was that the relay was in the key box mounted on the motor. When I extended to harness, I took everything out and mounted to the inside of the dash (which is plastic). The small little wire with the loop connect was using the metal key box as a ground since it was directly connected to the motor. After reading your posts a couple times it finally started to make since so I ran another wire from the stud on the relay directly to a stud on the engine and perfecto! 2 hours of work for a stupid brain fart! Thanks again! I would probably still be banging my head on the dash if you hadnt provided some clarity!

sho305

Right now I have the clone set to no idle to kill it, on the carb. Right you have to ground the ignition wire to kill it. I have a relay to put on there to do that, powered by the key/pedal switch since I use the stock generator to start it. Normally the low oil switch will also ground it to kill it, just like the switch on the clone.