Club Car DS Duromax

pgilbert

You really don't need any of the stock electrical stuff, all you need to do is extend the wires for your ignition box that came with the Motor.

BGW

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hanleyna

I know I am chiming in late, but have a few questions relative to the cc/ duromax swap. I have the motor, clutch from cpp and have placed it in the cart to find my clearances. Why is cutting the shaft necessary? I will need to modify motor mounts anyways so why not simply move the motor over to the driver side further?

Also, has anyone experienced problems with frame/ clutch clearance?

Thanks

sho305

I had to cut the shaft in a G9 because the recoil was 1/2" from the gas tank after I cut it way down. You can move the engine over, though its not really good for the crank bearing to have that weight away from the bearing like that. But people do it and they seem to work ok, it may depend on the rpm it runs, 3600 is not that much rpm. Cutting the crank is not that hard, tapping threads might be if you never did it.

The clone does not have an ignition, its a magneto coil just like most lawnmowers. All you have is a ground wire from the coil and you ground it to the engine to kill it...that is it. The low oil sensor also grounds that wire to kill it.

hanleyna

Thanks for your response Sho! The clutch has only about 1/2 inch before it is against the shoulder of the crank so I dont think it would make much difference to cut.

Next question is how do i align the two clutches? I see that the motor clutch will pull in and the driven clutch will open up. is there an ideal place to mount the stationary clutches so that they are aligned at full throttle?

sho305

I measure a stock cart, you should measure the offset (ideally between the fixed sheaves) with a straight edge of some kind like a yard stick/etc, and then center to center distance. What I did with my clone is measured between the clutches and cut a piece of wood that just fit, made it easy to set that because my clone is higher than the stock engine. Used a steel bar on back of primary iirc to check the offset to the secondary. Also use straight edge to check square the other clutch must be parallel. If you can't measure maybe someone here can or its posted someplace. My cart is in storage so is the carryall family has.

If the clutch is that close no big deal, mine was way out like 2" between block and clutch. I cut max left the minimum 1 1/8 of the 1" crank and slid the adapter up to the shoulder, the back of clutch is about even with shoulder on crank where it gets bigger that is maybe 1/2" from the bearing. Still not as close as yamaha had theirs but it all fit in there, barely.

If your in about the same spot as stock you should not have any clearance issues, but you always have to keep an eye on things like that when you swap. I check all around the engine before I consider anything permanent, also consider suspension movement because the whole engine moves relative to the cart. That is why the stock exhaust is mounted to the engine. Sounds stupid but even for people that do this kind of stuff it is easy to overlook, then you end up wasting time redoing something.

One last note, if you measure an old cart pull the clutch away from the trans, it will always torque towards it if the mounts are loose/worn/etc. If the engine is crooked/twisted to the trans you know that is what happened, add some distance to get it straight like new mounts would.

kevinandrew

when i put swap back together i lined my driving clutch up with my driven clutch by eye. basically what i did was put a sharpie mark in the center of my clutches and and sighted them. then i put my belt on and looked to see if there was any deflection between the two clutches. i thought about using a straight edge, but decided i didn't care that much.

hanleyna

Thanks Kevin. That seems like as good a way to do it as any. How much tension should there be on the belt at idle?

kevinandrew

i found somewhere on another thread that the stock club car clutches should be 9 and 5/8 inches apart center to center. that's what i put mine at. as soon as get my spockets welded i know if this is really right. i'm pretty sure that it is. we'll see this weekend....i hope.

JodyO

You can get unistrut at Home depot. About 10 bucks for a four foot piece.

carolinasled

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