My 420 Predator Swap in CC DS

flyby

Decided to post some pics of my 420 Predator swap after my first test drive. Got to do some more tweeking with clutch and final drive gearing. Will also need to mount an alternator and fab an additional muffler support bracket. Spent most of a day making the carb adapter so I could utilize the excellent stock aircleaner/choke. Note my one of a kind crank pressure pulse fitting...hehe... drilled the valve cover bolt. I raised the engine off of the plate 1-1/4 inches with solid 1-1/2 inch round aluminum spacer. This was to get the engine intake area high enough to clear the electrical box. I am also using the stock throttle cable and have decided to use the stock predator governor. Note linkage mod to the governor arm so that I can adjust max rpm's with cable placement.

I did a 6 in lift along with the engine upgrade. I raised the engine mounting plate 2 3/4 in inches where the rear of engine plate contacts the rear diff assembly. This worked out perfectly to get the the engine and a near level angle and relieve the stress and extreme angle at the front snubber. I also added a 1/2 inch spacer at the front snubber the bring that into stock placement also.

Like I mentioned, I need to do some clutch tweeking as the club car clutch engages way too soon. Wondering if anyone has tried stretching the clutch spring to achieve a higher stall speed on the clutch engagement???
While I'm at it wondering if I add another lighting coil, do I need to add an additional diode and circuit breaker...anybody know???

Thanks in advance,
Vince in Mojave

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BGW

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KRAZYMATT

looks good. how does it run? im having trouble with mine running out of gas at wide open throttle. i do have open air element filter but also opened the main jet up a little aswell...

sho305

I think you can buy longer springs for those clutches, or sure you can try to stretch it or shim with spacer of some kind. Some of them you can use pvc pipe to space them out. That will raise engagement and not affect shift rpm much.

flyby

Engine seems to run great but perhaps a bit on the rich side. Could be rich from a restrictive intake? Not a worry at this point but I'll test it sometime with induction disconnected.

sho305

Both clones I put in with car mufflers and car airboxes, had to make the main jet larger in both of them. Also made the idle richer. It ran fine with the stock yamaha airbox when I first put it in, got the car box in and had to jet it up. But it had more power and would rev higher.

flyby

Good to know sho305 but when you say "car" muffler and airbox, what are you refering to specifically? Clubcar or automotive? My engine is definately running rich as the black in exhaust shows me. I am at 2,600 elevation so that may account for some of my rich condition. I have my engine back out to replace drive clutch and then install 200rpm spring from CCP. So I'll not be doing any more testing for a week or so. Built a muffler mount bracket and doing some details meanwhile. I almost bought a "replacement clutch" as seen on ebay and some cart parts dealers but be advised that there are NO REPAIR PARTS for those replacement clutches and if you want to do a mod or upgrade you MIGHT be SOL so I am told.
Thought I would include pics of some of my mods. In my first post you can see the exhaust I made out of 1" electrical conduit and an old propane bottle.

Pics attached with this post....

Note addition angle welded to bottom of engine mount plate to catch bottom two transaxle-to-engine mount holes.
Note the difference in stock and the new shocks I will be installing.
Note the addition of a removable reinforcement bracket on clutch side motor mount plate. This I believe will prevent cracking of plate and was not necassary with the original engine installed since the engine was integral with the mount plate and the clone is not.
Note new mount hole locations for raising mount 2-3/4 inches.
Note new hole drilled in center of mount plate to drain/change oil. Added a couple addition drain holes on the bottom rear of engine plate to aid in any spilled oil getting out.
Note the aluminum 1-1/4" tall by 1-1/2" diameter spacer blocks to raise engine.
Note the clutch side front engine mount hole. Had to do some fill in of engine drain access hole in order to provide for new engine mount hole which would have been too close.
Note 1/2 inch spacer at front snubber needed to bring snubber to stock location from 6 inch lift install.

all for now till I can get running again

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sho305

Mount looks really nice, let us know how it works out.

flyby

Engine is running fine. Did a little engine mounting hole slotting to allow for belt adjustment. Having a big problem with belt slipping. Clutch seemed to work fine for first 20 minutes or so. Then experienced extreme slipping. No squealing...just could not move much. I applied a liberal amount of belt dressing and I had belt traction again...for about 20 min. then slipping again. I am wondering if the steel shieved aftermarket driven clutch is the problem? Seems like the drive clutch is sqeezing the belt just fine and is pulling the belt into the driven clutch with little forward or reverse movement in the cart like as if the driven clutch pulley ad no spring, a weak spring, or as if the rear shieves were greased? If you know what I'm saying? Not sure what to do at this point?

sho305

Check the ramps in the secondary make sure its the right rotation, the ramps clamp the belt under torque. Since the CC rotated both ways and think they only work one way. If its slipping on the secondary that likely where the issue is.

flyby

FWIW. I am very disappointed with the CW CCW engine rotation thingy on my 04 CC. Since it will cost 300.00 to go to 6:1 gearing from CPP (the cheapest I could find). I am going to scrap everything and turn engine around. Since I reckon I got a 300.00 to blow on a gear change, I will spend about 200.00 on everything I need for a jackshaft setup including extra gears. I will be able to select any gearing I want and in fact make it quickchangable...IE less than a minute to change gears. I don't like the extra points of failure but hoping it will be worth it. I will try to remember post pictures when the time comes.

Let me add that the new clutch drive spring from CPP worked as hoped and allowed me to idle with little or no clutch grab. I am going to obtain a new severe duty belt now also. I have reversed the cam ramp on the driven clutch per sho305 recommendation hoping it will help solve belt slipping and should improve general clutch operation.

Let me also add that after about 2 hours use, my Mikuni DF44 pulse fuel pump pooped out. For first 1 1/2 hour use it worked flawlessly. then I got a stumble at WOT...then it would go WOT for two to three minutes ...then 1 minute...then got down to a few hundred feet then a hundred or so. I disconnected the hose to carb and while I got fuel at idle it would gradually go to nothing as throttle increased. I made no changes and at all. Line and filter were clear.... even installed a new filter with no improvement. Going to try a walbro clone WIB-22 since original fuel pump was missing from cart.