Duromax clone not charging battery

beachcarter

Hey guys, I just completed my install of a duromax 16 in my 98 EZGO TXT. My battery has been sitting for over a month so when I put it in the cart it was a little weak. I checked it with a volt meter and it read 11.8 volts. Still strong enough to start the duromax. I rode the duromax for about an hour then it sat for about an hour. As the sun went down I needed my headlights to get it back home. When I turned on the lights I noticed they were dim but didn't think much about it but by the time I got home about a mile and a half drive they were very dim. I know the clone motor only has a 3 amp charging circuit but I put my volt meter on the battery and it read 11 volts. I reved the engine and it remained at 11 volts. I know my stock starter generator would increase to 14 volts when reved. Question is with this clone motor only putting out 3 amps is that little charge so insignificant that I wouldn't see the voltage increase with revving the engine or is it possible when I hooked extended the harness for the key start I hooked something up wrong and its not charging at all? I would like to add a second 3 amp charging coil to boost the charging capacity to 6 amps but not sure where to get the parts or exactly how to do it. I called Max tools and they were no help.

BGW

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jeffrun

hi beach,
The 3 amp charge coils in these clones are only designed to maintain a fully charge battery with no other loads. These do not have a voltage regulator, so when you try to charge a low battery or have load like headlights , it cannot put out enough voltage/current to charge, so your battery runs down as you motor along. The s/g has a voltage regulator and is rated 15A, so thats works to 15a load. Auto alt. are the best ,they have 40-60A rating and have built in reg. Adding another 3a coil will not help you, best to add external alternator.

beachcarter

Darn. Thats not what I was wanting to hear. I like the key start and had no intentions of reusing the starter generator so I gave it to a friend. The engine cradle I used is the one that buggies unlimited sells with the 20 hp honda and has no way of mounting an alternator. I have lights and a stereo on my cart so I don't know what I'm going to do to keep my battery charged.

fstg21

What clutch are you using?

There is always a way of mounting an alternator.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/clone...tor-clone.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/clone...-question.html

beachcarter

I bought the motor, clutch cradle and all install parts as a kit from mrcarts dot com. I believe its a comet clutch. Fell a bit ripped off considering what I paid then I found vegas carts dot com and could have pieced everything together for about 5-600 less than what I paid. Oh well, whats done is done.

geoffw

beachcarter,

Call me tomorrow, we might be able to work out a deal.

-Geoff

beachcarter

Got to work on the cart some this evening. I found that my charging coil is working but its putting out AC voltage. I traced the wiring out and found that there is no rectifier at the switch to convert the AC to DC. How can I go about adding a rectifier to convert the AC to DC voltage? And where would I get one?

jeffrun

Did you look inside switch box? I checked my predator and there is a little black box with a diode symbol on it, will provide half wave dc . There is also a fuse and circuit breaker,so you need to check those. If you need a rectifier, you can get those at radio shack,you may have to modify mounting to work.

beachcarter

I have taken the switch out of the switchbox and mounted it on the dash of my cart. There a 2 brown wires with a red stripe that connect to the circuit breaker. When I extended the wires for the switch I didn't istall that circuit breaker and the engine starts and cuts off with no problem. Last night after researching and finding I needed a rectifier I thought maybe the rectifier was inside that small black box that house the circuit breaker so I hooked it up. Still no charge so I don't think the rectifier is contained within the circuit breaker housing. The only other part that was in the switch box was a silver 1/2" by 1/2" box but I believe that is the kill switch for the low oil sensor which I'm not using.

geoffw

Inside that starter box there should be a small rectifier, I typically just remove it and wire it inline from the coil to the battery.

I didnt think it would work without it.

This is also another reason I dont think you can get away with doubling up on the coils.