G-9 Predator clone relay installation. Help!

kykiduk

Hello! I was wanting to see if someone out there could explain to me how to wire up my new Predator 420cc clone with the relay setup? I want my cart to operate just like stock, but I can't figure out how to wire the relay. I have looked at several threads on this topic, but I still can't figure it out. Electrical is not my best field! I did attempt to wire it up today, but I ended up frying my generator....so my attempt at wiring up my $14 relay ended up costing me a couple hundred dollars now! I would like to avoid this expensive mistake again by having someone walk me through the process of hooking this up properly. The cart is a G-9 with the predator 420cc engine. Thanks!

BGW

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geoffw

Are you using your starter/gen to start the engine or the junk electric starter on the engine?

kykiduk

I am using the original stock starter/generator. The predator starter is disconnected.

geoffw

Smart man... What relay setup are your referring to? the relay kill switch?

The starter gen should be wired like it is when its stock.

-Geoff

kykiduk

Yes....I am referring to the relay/kill switch. I bought a relay harness that will take a 4 or 5 pronged 30A/40A relay. I bought a four pronged relay, and have for wires to hook up....the red white with the white strip (hot w/ pedal), brown (hot) that comes off of motor, black (ground) for engine, and hooked up a wire that is grounded to the battery. None of these combinations worked. After re-reading SHO's post on how to do this, I figured out that I didn't have the engine grounded, so I grounded it to the engine, and put it to the relay......that is when I fried my generator. It initially fired up, but then went totally dead. I blew the main fuse and generator. I tested the generator per the instructions from another post on this site, and it failed. Not sure if I killed it or it just happened to die at that moment. Anyway...a new one is on it's way. This is the last piece of the puzzle for the build, and then I can jet it and dial it in. My inspiration for this whole project was SHO's second clone, and I pretty much followed his second build....so my cart pretty much looks like his setup. My goal is to be able to pull the relay out and start the motor with the recoil as a backup in case the generator goes dead....which is currently the case!

geoffw

Despite having done 25+ clone swaps this year, we havent yet done one for a Yamaha or made a kit for them so I may not be the best person to answer this, however....

With both the Club Cars and EZGOs we install an additional limit switch to the throttle box and wire it directly to the coil... Once its pressed, the engine dies...

Its much better than using a relay and only need 2 wires instead of 5. Every relay kill ive used has burned the relay within a month or two, my guess is because of ignition backfeed from the coil.

sho305

Send me a PM if you need to. You hook the white/red to the relay coil, this is 12v from the cart that is powered when the pedal is down. If you don't have a G2/9 then check the power to see if you have 12v from the pedal when pressed. This powers the ign coil/ignitor/solenoid when you push pedal and solenoid runs the starter/gen.

The other side of relay coil you ground to batt, where the power comes from (or any ground wire to batt like on the gen, its low power).

Now the switched side of the relay you have to wire different than usual. You need the type of relay that can be on or off without power, some relay only connect with power. A typical bosch type will do either. I think that is your problem you have a 4 pole (terminals) that can not do that, you need a 5 pole.

So you find the terminals (that I list in my thread for bosch or someplace I did iirc) that will be 'on' at rest with no power (connected when not powered). You wire engine block ground (engine block because it grounds the magneto on the clone, this has nothing to do with the battery. Or something metal bolted to clone block) to one side. The other terminal you wire to your clone kill wire from the magneto, the wire that goes to the stock clone kill or key switch from under the flywheel. Not the charge wire if you have charging under the flywheel.

This way when you let off the pedal it will kill by grounding the clone kill wire to block. When you hit pedal it will un-ground it and let it run. The gen wiring stays stock on a yamah G9 you just leave it, tape up the yamaha ignition component plugs and ziptie them out of the way. In an emergency you can unplug the entire relay if you buy the plug for it, and it will run. Such as if you need to use the recoil starter in an emergency or have a wiring failure that somehow kills it, etc.

I've run two of these setups on $3 amazon bosch type relays for 2yr and 3yr with no problems. They were the outside weatherproof relays if that matters. You need to do this when the cart had a 12v run ignition and the clone has a self powered magneto ignition. Most small lawn engines that are air cooled use a magneto ignition, but not all. Many carts use them too so you might not have to change anything for those carts. The G2/9 uses 12v powered so they can change ignition timing.

If it does not work it will simply sit there and idle, or dies if you don't have the idle set. I still have the stock clone switch on the engine, and you can choke it to kill if you have it hooked up. The real issue for me was if the throttle stuck it would shut off.

kykiduk

Hey SHO! Thanks for the response! I think part of the problem is that. I am using the 4 pole relay, not a 5 pole....so that may be part of the problem. My new generator will be here Tuesday, so hopefully I can be back at this soon. I thought I might be able to get the 4 pole to work by hooking the engine ground and cart ground to one side, and then the engine hot and pedal hot to the other....but I think I'll just buy a 5 pole relay and sent it up like u have it. I'm not very good with electronics, so what would really help me out us if you could tell me exactly where u have your wires connect. On the relay, there should be some numbers on the bottom (ex. 85,86,30, etc.)......if u could tell me which number on the relay u have going where, that would really help me out. I'm a little gun shy with experimenting now that I've fried my generator! Thanks for all of your help SHO! I will post pics of my cart in a couple of days so u can see the results of my build that was inspired by your last clone build!

sho305

Here it is in my old clone thread: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...tml#post699627

Remember 85/86 are the coil that activates it, no polarity, so one to 12v from the pedal and the other to batt ground. I used the white/red that powers the coil (G9 has a 12v coil fired by the ignitor not a magneto).

Then use 87A and 30 to connect the mag kill wire to the engine block. You can ground the engine to the neg battery, just make sure you connect the kill wire to the engine block in a complete circuit-- 87A to one, and 30 to the other. The clone magneto (coil) kill wire is not a hot or a ground, it simply grounds the ignition coil inside the mag so it does not produce a spark to the spark plug. The mag makes its own spark power from the magnet in the flywheel. I used a weatherproof relay and the plug for it from amazon they at the time were like $3 each. Parts Express also sells them, sure you can get them local if you need or most older (80s/90s/etc) GM cars have a rack of them near the headlights you can use also if you have access to a boneyard. Some GM you can get the plugs out too with some wire. A GM Cavalier for example.

kykiduk

Hey sho305!! Thanks for all of the help and the link to the thread for wiring up the relay. I'm sure it'll work out once I get it wired up. Unfortunately, i am still dealing with the mess that i created when I tried wiring it up in the first place! I got my new starter/generator and installed it, but it still will not turn over. i put a new solenoid in from a local automotive store.....it is a continuous duty 12V Solenoid from N@P@ (ST80). Many people have used this solenoid for carts, and it is the replacement solenoid for many Marathon carts. I spent all day on the cart today, and I have not made any real progress. I tested the micro switch for the pedal, and it is good. I tested the regulator after starting the cart by hand, and it is putting out 14+ volts. I did find that the smaller red wire with white strip that attaches to the Solenoid only showed about 5 volts, and when I disconnected the VR, it went up to 12.5 V. I'm not really sure if the voltage regulator affects the ability of the cart to start, but it is definitely charging once the cart is started. About the only thing the cart will do right now without starting it by the recoil is click the solenoid. If you have any input on this problem, I'm all ears. I don't wanna mess with the relay right now until I can at least get the cart back to starting the engine with the starter/generator. Also...i've attached some pics of my cart so you can see what I've done. It was stock last week!

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