My G1 clone build

Field6565

Well..I just started my G1 clone build.


Plans for the build. Swap out the stock motor with a Lifan 15hp
Swap out the G1 rear axel with a G2 rear end to maintain the reverse gear.


I will use the stock G1 primary clutch and remount the starter/generator to have the pedal start. I need to order the clutch adapter and cut the shaft down drill/tap. Has anyone done this?

So here's what I've done so far.

Pulled the stock motor
Removed the primary from stock motor
Dropped the G1 swing arm

My next move is mounting the G2 rear end on the G1 swing arm. (maybe next weekend)

A few pics.....

Attached Images

	Lifan 003.jpg (210.5 KB, 0 views)
	G1 Big Block 002.jpg (212.9 KB, 0 views)
	G1 Big Block 003.jpg (189.5 KB, 0 views)
	G1 Big Block 006.jpg (202.1 KB, 0 views)
	G1 Big Block 008.jpg (222.8 KB, 0 views)

BGW

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sho305

I've done a couple of them, I kept the foam the engine came in and set it on that flywheel side down to drill and tap it. Stood up first and wrap tape around crank at desired length, cut with saw or air grinder, sawzall, etc. You need 1" to 1 1/8" of crank to put adapter on, plus whatever spacer you put behind it if any, on the 1" diameter part of the crank. It does not use the keyway.

I would determine if you want/need to move your cradle back at all, to move the tires in the wells. Some do if they plan on larger tires then move/remove the bumper.

G1 frame may interfere with the clutch it does on a stock high lift it hits the cover....if cart is lifted check for that. There are other threads on this swap check them out. Note a G2/9 has battery on driver side and tank on pass side, I forget what they did in the swap. You will have to mod the gen to only use forward running, but all the wiring is pretty much stock then. You should get a typical bosch relay and wire it to the clone kill wire to kill it when the gen stops. Make sure you don't apply any power to that wire. I think G1 powers ignition 12v? G2/9 does so on that you ground the kill wire to the block through the relay (so its grounded all the time at rest), then wire the relay coil to 12v at the start solenoid or G1 ignition wires that goes 12v+ with the pedal to activate the relay. G2/9 I used the 12v coil wire. The clone ignition does not need any power, it needs ground to kill it, much like a B&S. The cart gen still needs a 12v signal from the key through the pedal to run, you could go with a standard 12v key for a old kohler or other 12v powered ignition equipment (like an old fork lift). Small lawn equip often B&S type wiring that kills ignition on off and does not power it.

Field6565

Sho305...What size should I drill/tap the shaft. My first thought was to reuse the factory clutch bolt but I'm having a hard time finding a 14Mx1mm tap.

sho305

I would have to dig around but pretty sure it was a standard 3/8 fine thread. M14x1 is the tap size the clutch puller uses, inside the clutch, not inside the crank. It may be listed in one of my clone threads don't have time to look right now.

Field6565

Thanks for the heads up! No wonder I was having a hard time finding a tap. Very rare size. I'm wondering what size the threads are inside the G1 crank? I would like to use the factory bolt on the clone.

sho305

I don't know the G1 crank, would have to check the bolt in it to see if its the same as G9 at 3/8. Pretty sure it was 3/8-24? I know it was a US size because the place I was at had no metric stuff.

The puller bolt to remove clutches has a dummy pin that goes to bottom of crank hole, the threads are larger and up near head, they engage in the clutch just inside the hole and pull it off (hopefully). Check a photo at a site that sells them. A half inch is about 12.7mm.

I had a machinist make me a puller but ended up bending it, should have found some tool steel to make it out of and hardened it. It might still work not sure, but for a G9. I think he turned the threads on a lathe.

slonomo

Great job Gary! Looking forward to learning from you on this build. I have all my parts except the engine. I'm contemplating moving the swing arm back and dropping it, did you decide if you will do this? Also, are you going to use the stock airbox and muffler for now? Anxious to find out how you like the new power! Listen to Sho, he's done this a few times. BTW, nice pictures, they turned out great. Keep em coming!

danman

This is my fault! Sorry Field, I pulled the wrong number from my notes when you asked. Sho is correct on that thread size

Field6565

No big deal. After measuring the factory clutch bolt with calipers it looks like the thread size is 1/2-20. Does that sound right? You said to use a 29/64 drill bit and that is the recommended bit size for a 1/2-20 tap.

sho305

My cart is not that high its 18" at the floor, it just clears the 22s. If I put a quad front or otherwise better front on...I will be moving the rear too I think it would work/ride better anyway plus I will need to be a little higher w/a better front. If you are welding in mounts you may as well, was my thinking. Note I did not say put a 3 link in.....