Paint over paint?

Molon Labe

Ok, so I've noticed that everyone has a different opinion on what is the best way to prep and paint your cart. My question is has anyone just scuffed up the factory paint with sandpaper/scotchbrite and directly painted over it with another color? If so how did it work out for you? I'm not looking for a hot rod quality paint job, I just want to camo the cart with flat olive drab green because its mostly used as a hunting cart. I'm not worried about it getting a few scratches in the woods, but i also don't want the paint to come off in chunks because i skipped out on proper prep work. I'll be using spray bomb cans since i don't have a hvlp setup and was planning on using a plastic compatible paint like the rustoleum stuff. Do I still need adhesion promoter if the factory paint is still in reasonably good shape? I hate to sound cheap but money is tight and i don't want to spend the extra $40 - $50 on adhesion promoter if I can get away without it.

BGW

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bird6246

Have you looked into HYDRO Dipping, or a vinyl wrap, both great alternatives and price isn't far off. You should add, adhesion promoter and flex additive to any paint that is being sprayed on plastic, plastic expands and contracts ALOT

Molon Labe

I thought about hydro dipping. I have done parts before by myself that came out flawless, but I'm not sure where to get a tank big enough to dip a whole body at once. Would be awesome though!

rib33024

Use your neighbors pool, while they are on vacation

Molon Labe

...not a bad idea my friend..not a bad idea at all!

sho305

I used adhesion promoter in a spray can from walmart or someplace that was a few bucks a can, for plastic bumpers. Also used the primer, both worked great. But I have a G9 plastic body and it had no paint on it at all. Some paints you don't have to put additives in, I used dupont at the time and it is still on the cart since 99. Only spots came off were hit with tools and such. I sanded everything with 600 wet.

The only bad thing about plastic is buildup is what cracks the paint, so one thin pain job will work the best, more paint on that is worse. But its hard to strip. If you are going to paint paint, I would just wet sand it with 600 use a foam pad for that purpose. Also get a red scotch pad and use that to sand any edges or corners or anywhere you cant get the wet paper. Be careful of sanding the bare plastic I was pretty light on it because it balls up easily, or the G9 did. Far as I know you only need the promoter on bare plastic. If you have not wet sanded, its pretty easy and while it can be wet its not messy like dry sanding. Try to sand in an X pattern so you don't miss spots, put a little (I mean just a little bit!) dawn in the water it cleans it while you sand lol. Use a rag or sponge to supply a little water while you go, its not that bad.

Molon Labe

Thanks sho ...that was pretty much the info I was looking for plus some. I never thought about cracking from paint buildup so a thinner coat makes sense. I got the body off last night so hopefully I'm going to get the prep work done this weekend. Should be easy to prep if all I have to do is scuff the paint and maybe patch a crack or two. I can't wait to see it with some color on it.