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Unread 03-16-2010, 06:50 AM   #1
Gone Wild
 
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Yamaha
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 280
Default Custom Shifter Build

*2016 Update*

This Shifter held up for 6 long years, both on and off road. Never required any additional maintenance, tweaking, or anything. Cart has since been sold, and yet another build will commence.

I lost numerous photo's on the last host/server site, so I have replaced any lost pictures with extra's to at least give an idea. If anyone requires any additional information, then please just ask. I would be more than happy to help out.

With that being said...... What an honor to have another "Sticky" Thread on such a wonderful forum!!! Please take the time to add you Custom Shifter Builds, and comments in order to help aid future DIY Cart Addicts!

OK guy's.... Here is the build specs for those of you interested. I apologize about missing some pics., but will answer any questions you may have. The build was always meant to be done with minimal tools, and budget in mind. Besides your basic hand tools....wrenches, screw drivers, rubber mallet, the only other tools I used where a drill, and grinder.

Here is my Parts List, and cost. (Canadian Funds)

> Chrome Shifter Arm $6.00 (Ebay)
> Skull Shifter Knob $9.13 (Ebay)
> Shifter Boot Cover $6.12 (Ebay)
> Angle Brackets X2 $2.34 (Canadian Tire)
> Turnbuckle (Round End) $2.79 (Canadian Tire)

Total Out of Pocket > $26.38

Additional Parts from around the house...

10- 6mm Bolts
2- 10mm Bolts
1"x6" Flat Bar
Alum. Flashing 5"x16" (approx.)


I first started by removing the shifter handle by removing the retaining screw. Then remove seat, and top mounting bolts for shifter mechanism.
Turn mechanism, and reinstall one bolt. Measure and cut flat bar to length for support bracket, and bolt on. This gives you your basic set up for the shifter.

(Sorry original picture has been lost, but this should give an idea)


Take plastic handle and cut with grinder (cut off disc). Take note on back side as to molded in structual supports. You want to leave them on the handle portion, and not the cut off piece.


(Missing original 2nd picture)

Carfully drill hole so that it is even on internal gussets, and mount your turnbuckle using a bolt with washers on either side of turnbuckle loop end. You will probably need to shim between the bolt and eye of turnbuckle to take out he excesive play. For this, I found a brass collar from an air line fitting kicking around, andused grinder to shape it to width. On the other end I used a plastic air line clip as the spacer/collar, after cutting it to length, and width. You could use anything you have kicking around, or perhaps your bolt fits nicely in the eye of the turnbuckle.

(Missing Original 1st picture)



I opted for the turn buckle, as It took the guess work out of lengths, and had the eye ends for ease of mounting. Be sure to use a jam nut on one side of the turnbuckle to lock it in place after finding correct length. You will see this illistrated in the next few pics.

Next, I had to drill a hole in my lever to attach turnbuckle. I chose the closest to the botom, as I wanted it stand stand up tall like a Rat Rod shifter. Drill hole, and mount with bolt. Using collor/bushing to take out slop/play. Here I simply used a plastic air line clip, and cut it to length and width with side cutters to fit. Be sure to use washers on both sides of eye. Tighten down until tight, then back off so lever swivels freely. Turnbuckle to lever mount can be seen in pic. below.

(Original picture missing)


After turnbuckle is mounted to lever. I used existing hole to mount the "L" brackets to upper portion of lever. I used existing hole on the "L" brackets for mounting, and cut extra length off. Tighten untill slightly snug. This will help hold the "L" brackets from swinging, as you line everything up. Mount can be seen in picture below...



For easy of mounting I pre-cut and drilled the "L" brackets on the body mounting end as well. I basically cut half the length off. Do not throw out the cut offs though, as they can be used on the back side when mounting, to give the plastic body a little extra support. When lining up your desired angle, you may find it neccesarry to make the hole on the body a little bigger to avoid contact/restrictions. I simply drilled multiple holes to obtain this. You could use a hole saw, but I wanted to use an item everyone should have. Regardless.... When lining everything up, you basically want to hold the "L" brackets at there desired location, then turn turnbuckle to get desired angle of shifter. Mark two "L" bracket hole locations, then relax shift lever, and make your drill holes, and do any cutting required in lower plastic. Mount lever with the two bolts, and loosen the lever/"L" bracket slightly so it pivots freely. Here you can fine tune the turnebuckle to get the exact angle desired, and check for any binding, or restrictions. Take not that you may want to angle lever slightly forward to clear seat when putting in reverse. Once you have desired angle, tighten down jam nut on turnbuckle, and drill and install two remaining bolts. Be sure to use the bracket cut-offs as mentioned earlier, or alternative to keep plastic from future stress, and damage. Here are a fem pics. of mounted lever, jam nut, and all aligned up...
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Unread 03-16-2010, 06:53 AM   #2
Gone Wild
 
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Yamaha
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 280
Default Re: Custom Shifter Build






Be sure everything is good and tight, all swivel point pivot freely, but not sloppy, and there are no restrictions.

You are now ready to build the shifter cover....

Be sure everything is good and tight, all swivel point pivot freely, but not slopy, and there are no restrictions.

You are now ready to build the shifter cover....
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Unread 03-16-2010, 07:16 AM   #3
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Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

I had a piece of aluminum kicking around that I cut to shape, but you could use anything really. The shifter boot could be replaced with a top with simple slot in it as well. But I will make mention of alternative idea's, and thoughts after build thread is complete.

Cut alum. to approx. length (giving a little extra), and width. I went with a 5" height, and found it covered everything nicely. Be sure to ad at least 1/2 inch to allow for top bend. To find the total length, I simply put the stainless boot cover on edge, and rolled it end for end, marking the very corner. I did this, as I was unsure how much material would be used for bends. Mark out where bends and cuts will be. Note the 45degree cuts for the top flange. Once cut and bent, they should meet perfectly for your 90 degree bend. I simply clamped it to my work bench, and shaped with rubber mallet. Be sure to bent the top flanges first, and then the back side flanges prior to doing the main bends, or you will have issues!






Once bent to shape, drill and rivet Shifter boot on top. Being sure to catch one flange, and not the seem...





On the backside flanges I simply drilled 4 bolt holes, and mounted over shift lever. Installed shift knob.












I will update with addition thoughts, alternatives and idea's I also had and considered. That may work for your custom build as well. Feel free to ad any thoughts and idea's. But keep in mind.... This thread heavily leans towards the "Budget Build". I'll answer any questions anyone may have as well. Only thing I ask, is that you post a picture of your Budget Built Shifter in this thread, so that all others will have any and all info. at their finger tips for future builds.

Thanks for looking guys!

Cheesy!
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Unread 03-16-2010, 07:27 AM   #4
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Location: Damon Texas
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Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

Thanks Cheesy.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 07:32 AM   #5
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Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

yeah thanks man that build gives me an idea for my sparky. nice budget build thanks again.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 07:39 AM   #6
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Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

No problem guys! Just giving back to the community!

I tried to keep it as simple and cheap as possible. Yet fully functional! It works great, and is by far one of my favorite ad-on's
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Unread 03-16-2010, 07:46 AM   #7
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Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

Thanks CheesyI wanted a shifter like this but just couldn't justify the $200.00 bucks,I think I can come up with the few items to build one like yours
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Unread 03-16-2010, 08:05 AM   #8
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Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by big mule View Post
Thanks CheesyI wanted a shifter like this but just couldn't justify the $200.00 bucks,I think I can come up with the few items to build one like yours


No prob.... Few other idea's I pondered where...

Shift Lever> 1"x 3/16" flat bar with a bolt end welded on top to accept shift knob, and painted black.

> 3/16"x 2-3" Aluminum with shaped in pistol grip with grinder.

> Threaded Rod with plastic line covering it, jam nut, then shift knob.


But I opted to go with the Daytona shifter, merely because I got it for next to nothing, and it looks awesome.

For the shifter cover, and boot I also considered getting a piece of body sheet metal from local store and bending it the same way. Or thought any box shaped item would work. By having an open bottom for mounting, and just cutting a slot lengthwise for the shifter to move back and forth. I even envisioned an empty 4l oil jug working for this application, as it is just a cover, and not a part of the structure what so ever. I'm sure you and others will have numerous other idea's as well though. Like I said, I just wanted to build a simple mechanical lever that anyone can do for next to nothing. Look forward to seeing yours, and others builds using this simple design!

Thanks again for the good words, and sharing my excitement for this simkple build.

Cheesy!
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Unread 03-16-2010, 08:20 AM   #9
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Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

That may be next winters project.Looks good thanks.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 08:22 AM   #10
Gone Wild
 
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Location: Ontario
Posts: 280
Default Re: Custom Shifter Build

Here are a couple additional pics. of how/why on my alignment, and mentioned seat restrictions to keep in mind.

Here is a picture of it in Drive. I wanted to skull shifter knob to sit nice and vertical for the most part (hence drive selection).



Here is a picture of it in reverse, showing the seat restriction to keep in mind. Mine is an angled shifter which brings it a little closer than your average straight shift lever would.




As well..... I'm not sure how other carts are set up, but you could also reverse the operation if need be as well. By mounting the linkage on the opposite side under the seat. You could reverse the linkage, and pivot point so it pivots on the bottom as well.
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