Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure Precedent Build

Coltf1991

I am going to be making a fiberglass enclosure for a 12" subwoofer. It's going to be made for the bagwell area of a Club Car precedent. Going tp try and follow the body lines as much as possible and have it painted to match. The subwoofer is going to be power mounted into the box with the magnet of the sub sticking out. The speaker wire is going to be housed in braided nitrous line and ran up to the amp rack. Oops did I say amp rack?

Well since I already said it I'll finish saying it.

I am also going to be building an amp rack above the bagwell area where the sweater basket is now, that will hold a long JL Audio amp angled down slightly. The top will be fiberglassed in as well as the sides and the front of it will have a piece of plexiglass in it and will be etched with our company name/logo and be lit up with green LED's from the inside. This project will take longer than just a few days, but hoping to have it completed before the end of the year. Proably will not happen tho.

So far I have all my plans drawn up and the box mocked up out of cardboard for the initial test fit.

I have already gathered my supplies:

Chop Mat
Resin
Brushes
Hardener
Fleece
MDF
Wood glue/liquid nails

I will be taking a lot of pictures during this process and possibly a how-to if anybody is interested.

If any of you guys have some cool ideas or see something I have left out feel free to shout out and let me know.

Thanks

Colton

BGW

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blake80

As long as this isn't for a off road cart, the reverse sub will be cool. I've been wanting to do a fiberglass enclosure for mine also. The cool thing about glass is that its easy and fast. I've been wanting to try a trick that I saw where you mix bondo and resin together in a 50/50 mix. It makes it self leveling with minimum sanding for the final layer. I also saw at Spring Break Nationals in Daytona a few years ago where a guy did a normal sub mount on a cart, then had a piece of lexan curvered over the sub. It acted as a hatch back and helped throw the sound forward. It really did work and helped with sound since the sub wasn't just throwing the sound out into free air.
You thing you might want to add is a 1MFD cap to help the amp, and if you get it with the volt display that would look killer molded into the enclosure.

BigMac!

You had to see this coming.

BigMac

Coltf1991

Great idea Blake. See those are the type of responses I am looking for. It is going to be for a lifted cart, but one that does not come out of the garage if there is a cloud in the sky he wont even drive it through the grass......

But it should be a pretty fun build and hopefully it comes out well. It is SUPER SUPER humid right now, which Blake I am sure you know glass and humidity do not play well together

Coltf1991

blake80

Humidity you talking about that stuff that makes you sweat when its 70deg out. I would die for a 90deg day with 50per humidity.
This is also one thing I have a good back ground in. I use to compete. Loudest I had was 154.6 legal DB's. (Doors closed and windows up). I did it with two 10" Alpine Type R subs with a PPI power class 500w RMS amp. I built a vented enclosure to Alpine specs. I used Optima blue top batteries and a 1MFD cap. I also had a 250A alternator custom built. Man that thing hit HARD but sounded as smooth as silk

Coltf1991

The custom system in my srt4 has to type-r's 1 ohm stable. They fricking bang. I am doing a full system in a 2001 toyota sequoia. Which i will be documenting on.

rib33024

Offtwice

You guys are bringing back memories of the stuff I used to love ....... Last system had alpine 12's in plexiglass and PRecision Power amps..... This will be fun to watch Colt!

OT

blake80

ive had most every brand of amp's out there. ppi's were my favorite amps. clean smooth power. i wish colt and i were closer, i would be there helping him get this put together