articulating 3 link build questions

sassycat

fixin to get started on my ole marathon and rod ends due here tomorrow.
dont get much from my "8,000 view build thread so figured id post this here for opinions,as i no a lot but never no everything and always open to suggestions..
well got the leaf spring mounts off and grinded down with flap wheel.
layed a few pieces of material down as to get an idea where im going with this.
did some measuring and i see the differential is 1-1/2 inches off center of the axle.so when i do the cradle im fairly positive the mounting point"has"to be in the center of the cross member where the cradle heim mounts,so it can follow the arms propery.am i thinking correct? thats where i have the red thing set in the pic,see how its offset to be centered?dont you guys over exert your brains now



in this pic i have the diff tilted back 1 inch further than original was,is this ok?
and can i tilt it back more to keep more clearance between the driven clutch and the cradle?then again i guess a 1/2 space is really plenty?





and another question; with the 2 main arms, being around the angle i have them layed out on the table be suficient to keep them from walking side to side,and deleting the need for a panhard bar?
or is there a reason most folks put the 2 arms almost straight in line with the cart? i cant honestly see a reason and feel the 2 arms at the aprox angle i have them layed out means theres no way the rear could shift more than say a 1/8th inch tops side to side?

BGW

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sassycat

bumpidy bump? nobody..i got it figured out for the most part i think..
i mainly need to no how far can i tilt the rear back and be safe?

when looking at the fill plug on the diff it seems that if i tilt it back further than stock very much it wont be getting oil to the top bearings? anyone?

dont make me switch forums for such simple questions

Tonka329

Switch forums!? What other forum would you go to? I have threads that I started 2 weeks ago that have no answer yet.. I think it may be ok as long as the fluid level is up to the hole. As far as the 3 link, "are the axles the same size?" I would go with a solid set up for the terrain in question. Panhard bar would be used for a single Heim mount on the front of the swingarm with dual shocks for extreme articulation... Hope this helps!

DOOmsman

I have a problem understanding the asymmetric set up of the rear.
I would find center line hob to hub and build square and plumb.

scottyb

I put the drag links straight off the frame in parallel with one another & I employed a panhard bar. I put a heim joint at each end of the links for max articulation. I have 10 inches of real travel at each wheel. THis allowed for lots of side movement and mandated the panhard bar.

Make a scaled down mock up, It doesn't need to be very big, to see how it will react

sassycat

thanks fellas,,i was just being trashy and sassy tonka i dont even have the dom tube yet for the arms lol..you no how us men are.when i get stuff in my head even if its way in advance i try to get all info in my brain so when i start, it all flows from within
i will have hiem joints for the arms,1 for the front of the cradle,and 2 for the panhard only because i will have extras..i may not use them on the ph bar?
i wonder if i triangulate the front of the 2 arms say"like 4 inches"on each side of the cradle hiem.shouldnt that be enough to not need a panhard bar?
the panhard bar is not a problem to make,just seems like a lot of carts dont use them with this set up..and maybe its because of the angle of the outer 2 arms not lettting it move as there more in a triangle..cant find good enough pics to tell..

i will try to slow down and just let it all com together and fix what dont work
i want 4-5 inches up travel and 6-8 down travel if i do this right,or more..
im figuring a upper shock mount that has 4-5 holes to angle the shocks in toward the center to gain softer ride and more travel outta the shocks..
was gonna try coil springs with seprate shocks for more travel but that idea is gone now

scottyb

This is what I ended up with....

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sassycat

ok,in this pic scotty the rear of the cradle confuses me..heres why.
the left ezgo axle tube is one and a 1/2 inches shorter than the drivers side.,and yours is shifted even more to the pass side making it way off centered?
seems good because the belt is away from the cradle"like i want" ,but your front hiem has to be centered on the cart for everything to follow when articulating?
so i assume your cradle is not square in the rear to the cart,but you made up for it in the front..kinda why my pic shows the red dot being straight and centered with the cart,but not at the rear of the cradle?
im wording this to much sorry! but did i make sense?
i can make the cradle wider and square but dont want it under the driven pulley so only way i see is the front cradle hiem has to be centered ,and the rear dont have to be..jeez im making this more complicated than it is
i always second guess myself in the begining..

sassycat

thanks for the pics scotty it loks like the pass side distance from the cradle to the outter arm is closer on the pass side..am i correct?
hard to tell if the front is center between the arms but it looks like the cradle is square and the front mount offset a lil from the arms?
your pics is what ive had saved for ever lol..the nicest set up ive seen imo is why
im letting it confuse me tho..
and in you pics,if the front of the arms were angled in say 3-4 inches,wouldnt that eliminate the need for the ph bar?
are those high dollar shocks,they look sweet!

sassycat

yes,but if the cradle was,say similar to a plumb triangle,then it will hang under the driven pulley.un like scottys pic of the rear? so the front must be a lil offset from the rear to be centered and square im guessing as i cant tell in the pics.