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Unread 11-23-2014, 09:23 PM   #1
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Default Bad Controller or Solenoid?

While riding my 2006 Precedent I heard a click and then the cart slowed to a stop. While investigating the possible cause, I noticed that the pre-charge resistor was really hot and smelled as if it was burning. I quickly unplugged the resistor and towed it home. Once at the house I tested the resistor for ohms and it read 247. I then used my volt meter to test the large posts on the solenoid. I have full voltage to both sides of the solenoid. I then tested the small terminals on the solenoid. With the cart in run, the key switch on, switched into forward with the pedal pressed I did not recieve any sign of voltage. Also I noticed that my solenoid was not making the clicking noise. Am I missing a something, could there be a problem somewhere else or should I just concede and go with a new controller? On a side note, the batteries are all new and were replaced 3 months ago. Thanks
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Unread 11-24-2014, 10:16 AM   #2
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Default Re: Bad Controller or Solenoid?

Check the solenoid activation circuit. You should read 48v between the 2 small posts when the pedal is pressed. Your trouble could be as simple as a bad connection or micro switch. To test the solenoid use jumper wire to bring 48v to the small terminals (careful to match existing polarity between the 2 poles)

The resistor got hot because the solenoid did not engage.
You read 48v on both big posts only because the resistor was installed. So you are reading through the resistor - not the solenoid contacts when it is installed.
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Unread 11-24-2014, 11:04 AM   #3
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Default Re: Bad Controller or Solenoid?

Hey ScottyB, thanks for the input. When I tested the solenoid previously the resistor was not connected and I was still receiving a full charge reading on both posts with the red lead of my voltmeter on one post and the black grounded to one of the pack batteries. It is almost as if the solenoid is stuck. When I tested the small terminals on the solenoid, I did press the pedal with the car on as if in normal operation and did not receive any reading. Now the resistor was disconnected when I checked the small terminals as well, does it need to be connected? Also, if you still think the jumper will work, can you explain this further? Where do I need to put the wires, and what am I looking for? Will the solenoid click, or should it move? Thanks again
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Unread 11-24-2014, 11:15 AM   #4
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Default Re: Bad Controller or Solenoid?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba_Steve View Post
Hey ScottB, thanks for the input. When I tested the solenoid previously the resistor was not connected and I was still receiving a full charge reading on both posts with the red lead of my voltmeter on one post and the black grounded to one of the pack batteries. It is almost as if the solenoid is stuck. When I tested the small terminals on the solenoid, I did press the pedal with the car on as if in normal operation and did not receive any reading. Now the resistor was disconnected when I checked the small terminals as well, does it need to be connected? Also, if you still think the jumper will work, can you explain this further? Where do I need to put the wires, and what am I looking for? Will the solenoid click, or should it move? Thanks again
It does sound like the solenoid may have welded shut (has continuity constantly) If you can disconnect it from the cart and bring (+) and (-) to the 2 small posts it should click and continuity between the large posts should come and go with the clicking.... if not then the solenoid has failed
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Unread 11-24-2014, 11:16 AM   #5
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Default Re: Bad Controller or Solenoid?

I had the EXACT same issue just last month. Being a new owner I took it to the store that built cart for the previous owner. The controller was bad and luckily still under warranty from Alltrax. They repaired it and sent it back.
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Unread 11-24-2014, 07:30 PM   #6
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Default Re: Bad Controller or Solenoid?

If it went bad I'd suggest replacing it with a HD solenoid for a few bucks more.

48 volt, 400 amp continuous / 1000 amp peak that many vendors here sell. Get a New diode and resistor as well.
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Unread 11-27-2014, 12:47 PM   #7
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Default Re: Bad Controller or Solenoid?

Hey guys, sorry it took me so long to respond, had to go out of town for work. Anyway, I jumped the small wires from the solenoid to a positive and negative power source, (12v), and it did click at first but when I took the wires loose from power it did not click back, nor would it click again until I shook the solenoid. When I shook the solenoid I could hear something rattling inside. At this point I am guessing it might be more the solenoid than the controller.
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