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Unread 01-26-2015, 04:03 PM   #31
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

I thought that the F1 meant 2001 rather than 2011. They looked way older than 2011 batteries. FWIW, Trojan only put the two different codes on the older batteries
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Unread 01-26-2015, 04:16 PM   #32
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

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Originally Posted by mike_dmt View Post
So I charged a pair of them overnight, about 10 hours. Pulled one and took it to my local battery shop.

I watched the guy hook it up, it read 5.5v. Then he turns the load knob super quick, unhooks it and says: "you need new batteries".

Then proceeds to tell me the code on the Neg terminal means 2001 not 2011 and these batteries are super old.

Now, I have dealt with this shop for a number of years, and they usually treat me good, but I'm a touch skeptical at the moment.

I brought it home, and hooked it back up to the charger by itself on the 6v setting. Now I'm not sure what to do.
Date Codes are easy to misinterpret. Also they might test so many batteries they forget to slow down and explain to the customer what they are doing, what they are expecting the readings to be and what the results are. If you are unsatisfied take it to your local car parts dealer, any one worth their salt will have a load tester and don't charge anything. But even "if" they are 2011, you are approaching the end of the life cycle and need new batteries, kind of a mute point?

On your upgrades, my .02 is switch to 48v now while you already have to buy a charger and batteries or it prob wont happen for a very long time! Lots of benefits to upgrading with Carts Unlimited! Speed, efficiency (distance), reliability & excellent customer service are a few. I am a very happy CU customer.
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Unread 01-26-2015, 05:39 PM   #33
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

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Originally Posted by CCFanatic View Post
I thought that the F1 meant 2001 rather than 2011. They looked way older than 2011 batteries. FWIW, Trojan only put the two different codes on the older batteries
maybe 91
i doubt they would be around 14 years
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Unread 01-26-2015, 05:42 PM   #34
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

If they were 2011s, wouldn't they have the label on the top of them? Besides, I'm 99% sure the two date code thing was only on older batteries. My 04s have the second code, but not my 08s
hydrolink.jpg
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Unread 01-26-2015, 05:49 PM   #35
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

Attached Files
File Type: pdf TRJN_0522_date_code.pdf (121.5 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 01-26-2015, 05:50 PM   #36
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

What are some common myths associated with batteries?

Half of a non-buffered aspirin in each cell and then a fast charge breaks up sulfation and extends battery life- Aspirin forms ascetic acid which attacks the positive grid and active material.

Storing a battery on concrete will discharge it quicker- Long ago, when battery cases were made out of natural rubber, this was true. Now, however, battery cases are made of polypropylene or other modern materials that allow a battery to be stored anywhere. A battery's rate of discharge is affected by its construction, its age, and the ambient temperature. The main issue with storing on concrete is that if the battery leaks, the concrete will be damaged.

Why do manufacturers use different alloys in their batteries (lead-calcium, lead-antimony, lead-selenium, etc.)?
The composition of the plate grid alloy can have a major effect on operating characteristics, such as behavior on float charging and cycle life. Older lead-antimony designs have good cycling capability but require frequent water additions, particularly towards the end of life, due to antimony migration between the plates. Cells with lead-calcium alloys require far less watering, but tend to have a poor cycle life. Lead-selenium alloys are actually low-antimony types with the addition of selenium as a hardening agent. Such alloys promote good cycling capability, while maintaining a constant and fairly low level of water consumption. Many variants on these alloy types are commercially available.

How do you read the date codes on the batteries?
Positive Terminal- Manufacturing Date. This code indicates the actual date when mechanical assembly of the battery was completed. At this point, electrolyte has not been added to the battery and formation charging has not taken place. LETTER stands for the month and could be anything from A to L (A=January, B=February, C=March, and so on),; NUMBER stands for the date.
Negative Terminal- Shipping Date. This code indicates the month and year when the battery was shipped out of our factory. LETTER stands for the month (see below); NUMBER is the last digit of the year.

Example: A battery with "I26" stamped on the positive terminal and "J2" on the negative. "I26" means that the battery was assembled, without electrolyte, on September 26th. "J2" means that it was shipped from our factory around October of 2002.
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Unread 01-26-2015, 05:52 PM   #37
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

I didn't realize they put the second code on the new batteries. I wonder why my 08s don't have it
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Unread 01-26-2015, 06:21 PM   #38
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

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I didn't realize they put the second code on the new batteries. I wonder why my 08s don't have it
Maybe you got counterfeit Trojans?
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Unread 01-26-2015, 07:51 PM   #39
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Default Re: Older Club Car 36-48v conversion?

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Maybe you got counterfeit Trojans?
well that explains my 3rd son ....
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Unread 01-26-2015, 08:08 PM   #40
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