Problems during solid state conversion

ecaldwell78

Hey everyone! I have a 92 DS that I'm converting to solid state thanks to the carts unlimited kit from ScottyB. I'm close to the end, triple checked my wiring, hooked up the pack, turned the key and it flew like a bat...on jack stands...and promptly stopped at half throttle. Now it does absolutely nothing except for the solenoid clicking. I've checked everything I can think of and am now at the mercy of the experts here to get my butt out of the frying pan with the missus! Just a little background, it was a solid running 92 DS 36 volt resistor cart. I got package C54, 2g cables, brand new Trojan 875s, HD FNR. I bypassed the FNR micro and don't even have the charger port hooked up yet either. I've learned a lot from reading but at this point am feeling pretty defeated. Any ideas? Thanks so much and God bless! Evan

BGW

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jjance

I would try running the motor in standalone mode using one or two batteries. Also raise one rear wheel off the ground and see if it turns freely. I'm thinking you may have over revved the motor. I feel your pain about the missus.

ecaldwell78

That sounds like it could be expensive! How would i go about running the motor in standalone mode?

Sergio

It may a little late for You, but as a reminder to other folks reading this post: Never run a DC Series motor unloaded.

Unlike a Sepex (or a shunt) motor, Series motors have NO speed regulation.

If You apply power to a Series motor that has no load, it will continue to speed until self-destruction.

Assuming You have all high current cables wired correctly, the best way to initially test the motor is as follows:

Place the FNR switch on Neutral, this will effectively isolate the motor coils for resistance testing.

Set Your meter to Continuity or 200Ω setting.

You should only have continuity (low resistance) between the following posts:
A1-A2
S1-S2

You should have an open circuit between:
A1-S1
A1-Motor Frame
S1-Motor Frame

If the motor fails these tests, the best cost effective option would be the PQ Bandit rebuild.

greg-g

I'm not sure but if the motor is bad PQ won't do a bandit rebuild

ecaldwell78

Thanks for the info Sergio! I will try these tonight when i get home from work. Man I wish i would've known that before testing. I will be sure to report back with my findings. I assume i can do this with no battery pack in since i'm only testing for continuity?

ecaldwell78

Well I don't know if this is good news or bad. I HAVE continuity between A1-A2 and between S1-S2. I have nothing from A1-S1, A1-motor frame, or S1-motor frame. Does this mean the motor is good?

CCFanatic

Sounds like you are good

jjance

Do you know if your motor is seized up? Can you turn it manually? You need to put power on it and see if it turns.

ecaldwell78

JJ, That's where I'm an electric motor dummy. How can I put power to the motor? The only way I've tried is through the pedal. You talking about hooking a jump box directly to terminals on the motor?