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Unread 02-04-2015, 05:33 PM   #71
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Only if there is more than 20% or 25% throttle at the time the key switch is turned on and the MCOR is engaged.

I actually tried this on my Excel cart as I am curious.
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Unread 02-04-2015, 06:34 PM   #72
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lakebit View Post
I took charger over and charged batteries for about 4 1/2 hours, charge indicator shows 100% drove cart home, about 1/4 mile, all went well until I stopped cart and put in reverse, hard bump and stopped, let cart set a couple minutes was able to back cart into garage. Took ohm reading between white and yellow wire on MCOR reading 5.8 pedel up 5.4 when micro switch clicked and .998 k ohms with pedal down. Read between yellow and purple wire on MCOR 1.5 pedal up 1.2 when micro clicked and 5.8 with pedal down.
My question can the MCOR be that erratic and why would the cart move after letting it set for a period of time?
The micro switch in the MCOR will work, then not work. PLEASE do yourself a favor... You can not only use a paper clip to make sure once and for all that it's the micro switch IN the MCOR. The best way to discribe it might be that it feels all of a sudden like a Car popping out of gear. When I was at my property at RR with the cart up there mine was acting up. I spliced in a toggle switch into the two top wires while leaving it plugged in. When the micro failed and the cart started to stop I flicked the switch and off I went. I would turn it on and off as needed, (over several days,) until I got the cart back home and installed a new MCOR. Just make sure you don't leave the switch on if it's not necessary and if you come to a complete stop. Or... Just use the paper clip like everyone is telling you so you can once and for all prove it's the MCOR.

Last edited by scubabud; 02-04-2015 at 07:09 PM.. Reason: (over several days,)
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Unread 02-04-2015, 07:38 PM   #73
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Thanks all - I will check out advice tomorrow. No fun being stranded!
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Unread 02-08-2015, 11:07 AM   #74
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Weather nice yesterday so I made a jumper for the micro switch bypass of the MCOR, just in case my cart stopped again. Drove to the club house no problem stopped at pro shop for a few seconds to let wife out of cart, pushed pedal cart bumped and would not go. I installed jumper between blue and green wire of harass, still would not move, reconnected micro switch turned R/T switch to tow for a minute, cart drove home no problem, put cart in reverse to back in garage same problem, had to put R/T switch in tow, wait a minute switch back to run and cart started working again.
Any suggestions other than MCOR?
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Unread 02-08-2015, 11:25 AM   #75
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Check the 16 pin connector on your controller, make sure connections are clean.

I don't know what you used for a jumper, hopefully a large type paper clip that made good connections within the connector. But everything you are describing leads to a MCOR. See below:

Below are some issues I’ve had over a long period of time and might be similar to what other members might be experiencing with their carts.

In the beginning every once in a while my cart would begin to slow down as if I took my foot off the Go Pedal. Most of the time, (back then,) once I did remove my foot and re-press down on the GP my cart would come back alive. Some times when I wanted to take off my cart would jump forward but then quit as if it was popping out of gear. (This same symptom happened to me when a previous motor in my cart had a broken brush contact.) Once I re-pressed the GP a couple of times it would take off like normal. Over a year these things were happening, (used my cart once or twice a month since it was up at RR with our Coach.) Also if this symptom occurred once I switched off the Key and then turned it back on it seemed to correct the issue and off I went. (Now I’m thinking maybe it’s the controller. Wanted a higher amp controller anyway so replaced it with a Curtis 350amp.) As time progressed it became worse, sometimes not responding no matter what I did. If I waited a few minutes it would most of the time act fine once again. I started to believe it was the solenoid since it wasn’t clicking all the time when this happened. I replaced it with a HD solenoid since I was going to do more upgrades to my cart. Obviously that didn’t correct the problem. Here’s the funny thing. Thinking it could be my motor having issues, (possibly over heating or contact issues,) I exchanged it out with my stock motor and I could go all day, (at least 9-10 miles is what I normally would travel,) and no problems. With my performance motor in, once I got to around 4 miles, my cart would quit as if I took my foot off the pedal. After waiting a few minutes it came back to life again. This made me think it really was an issue with the motor. After all, how could a Micro switch work sometimes and not other times and why wouldn’t it stop working with a stock motor. Well it finally did as well…

What I’m trying to say in all of this is… nothing might make complete sense to you… and… the Micro switch in the MCOR can and will do whatever it wants, whenever it wants… LOL

If you have Curtis Controllers and an OEM programmer plugged in while driving you’ll see the Pedal On/Off monitor show OFF when this happens and ON when it re-establishes itself.
If you don’t have an OEM Programmer, (most don’t,) you can remove the top connector on the MCOR, (two pin connector with I believe 18# gauge Blue and Green wires.) With the key turned off place a paper clip in the two holes of the connector, tape it in position as well as to prevent contact with anything as well as keeping the connection solid, turn on your key and drive your vehicle. If everything works like it should you now know that the Micro switch inside the MCOR is not working properly and it’s time to replace the MCOR. Of course if it only happens every so often that could be a problem to test. When I had my cart up at our site in RR, and the MCOR was acting up, I spliced in a toggle On/Off switch in the wires of the Top connector and when my cart clicked off I flicked the switch and away I went. I did this the whole weekend so we could use the cart until I got back to my home to replace the MCOR.

PROBLEM FINALLY SOLVED
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Unread 02-08-2015, 04:29 PM   #76
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Scubabud I thought that the micro switch on the MCOR was the prime suspect also, based on the previous post. If you look back I stated that Ron Mann with Alltrax had instructed me to remove the adapter and wire the harness wires to the MCOR wires leaving the purple and Blk/W strip disconnected, this was when I was trying to get the DCX500 IQ working, so I have insulated female connectors on the harness wires and male insulated connectors on the MCOR wires, that made it easy for me to unplug the MCOR and put the jumper with male insulated connectors on the blue and green wires on the harness. This was to prove the micro bad if the cart worked after installing the jumper, it didn't.
The only thing that gives me some concern is I have added a 200 amp solenoid with the 870 ohm 10 w resistor across the contacts and inadvertently add a 3 amp diode across the coil terminals. After reading the Alltrax guide, they said the 200 amp solenoid needed a 1 amp diode and a 3 amp for the 400 amp solenoid. Now that I have the stock Curtis controller installed, should I remove the diode? Yes the diode silver stripe is on the blue positive wire side. I bought the 200 amp based on Buggies Unlimited recommendation but Alltrax recommends the 400 amp solenoid for 500 amp controllers.
The diode is the only thing that is suspicious to me and I'm not sure that makes a difference.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 05:05 PM   #77
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

I do not know anything about modifiying the wires for the MCOR. I don't believe the diode would be a cause and I also don't believe the resistor would be either.

Tahoedawg or Sergio would actually be the ones to answer your questions on them.

If you have a new solenoid and if your wiring is correct, I'm still going to say it's your MCOR. Maybe an OBC issue with the lockout feature/wire, a bad connection with your key switch giving power to your system, a lose wire on you T/R switch, an armeture commutator or field wire in your motor, bad brushes in your motor, a bad sonic weld in your wire harness... But those symptoms are dead on with MCOR issues.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 05:06 PM   #78
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

The diode is fine, 3Amp will work with either Solenoid, You just don't need that much current capacity for the smaller coil of the 200amp solenoid.

A few things that may help narrow where the problem is coming from:

1) When You are having the problem, does the reverse buzzer sounds when you put in reverse?

2) When You are having the problem, if You try to push the cart, does the roll-away break engages?

edit: Is that resistor really 870Ω?

Last edited by Sergio; 02-08-2015 at 05:08 PM.. Reason: Resistor question
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Unread 02-08-2015, 05:13 PM   #79
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
The diode is fine, 3Amp will work with either Solenoid, You just don't need that much current capacity for the smaller coil of the 200amp solenoid.

A few things that may help narrow where the problem is coming from:

1) When You are having the problem, does the reverse buzzer sounds when you put in reverse?

2) When You are having the problem, if You try to push the cart, does the roll-away break engages?

edit: Is that resistor really 870Ω?
And if I may, when and as soon as it happens, does the Solenoid under your seat still click when the Go Pedal is depressed? (Not talking about the Micro clicking in the MCOR.)
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Unread 02-08-2015, 06:40 PM   #80
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Default Re: 2009 Club Car Precedent IQ

Oops 270 ohm 10 watt resistor. Yes buzzer sounds when in reverse. I put in neutral switched R/T to tow before I pushed, haven't really tried to push much on these hills. When I have pushed on flat ground the cart does beep.
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