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Unread 02-07-2015, 01:35 PM   #11
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

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Originally Posted by scooterman View Post
When I was installing this controller on my 2008.5 IQ the instructions did make this clear about the negatives. Wasn't so much the iq but excel types if I remember correctly. The problem is the way it is written unless your familiar with this, I can see where it would get overlooked.
Yes the instructions are not very well written; having read info about the negative wire here and having near to a month to study the directions before starting the undertaking I had a pretty clear thought process in my head....
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Unread 02-07-2015, 02:52 PM   #12
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I found out on Friday that I actually still have a TPS in this cart. I was able to buy an adapter and import to locally and will be throwing it in today. I'm hoping that this will fix the problem and will keep you all posted.
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Unread 02-07-2015, 02:53 PM   #13
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Not import...dang auto correct. ..I got an MCOR2
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Unread 02-08-2015, 06:16 PM   #14
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

Okie dokie! Still not working but a different result atleast. Man I've pulled those center batteries so many times I'm becoming ripped! LOL.

I found out that I still had the TPS on the throttle and completed a conversion to the MCOR2 today. The 1,3 code I was getting before is gone. Unfortunately I am now getting a 4,2 code now which is for overcurrent. I did install a heavy duty solenoid. Maybe I mixed something up on the solenoid?

I've got the light blue and white striped wire connected to the flat connector on the side of the solenoid that runs to the controller. On this same side I have one cable running to B-. The darker blue and white striped wire connected to the flat connector on the side with the positive cable running from the pack to the solenoid. Of course this side has the positive wiring running from the pack and another red cable that was originally split off the positive pack cable (green cable) on the original solenoid.

I have disconnected the original low battery indicator that was hooked up on the cart to eliminate the chance of that affecting the controller. I'll get some j1-15 voltage readings tomorrow when my son get's home from his mom's house and can help me by pushing the accelerator.

I appreciate all of you guys helping out with your wisdom and excessive brain power.

Thanks!
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Unread 02-08-2015, 06:30 PM   #15
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

That 4,2 code means "contactor driver" overcurrent.

You most likely have the diode backwards. The stripped end needs to be connected to the positive side of the solenoid coil (Light Blue wire coming from key switch).
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Unread 02-08-2015, 07:15 PM   #16
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

Sergio... thanks for chiming in.

I switched the light blue wire back to the positive side. Still got the 4,2 code.

I went ahead and checked the voltage on j1-15 and got the following readings, which I never got with the TPS, so there is some improvement going to the MCOR2.

resting pedal is .53V
fully pressed pedal gets 3.46V

The battery low indicator is removed and shouldn't be interfering. One thing that may help with diagnosis. The controller shows no light at all when switch is turned to run and key switch is turned on. If I switch to reverse before hitting pedal I get no reverse buzzer.

I put the f/r switch to forward and press the accelerator. Then I get the 4,2 code on controller. The reverse buzzer will now work as well.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 07:17 PM   #17
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

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Originally Posted by Cart Sports View Post
No voltage should ever be applied to ground. With the acid that inevitably comes from the batteries (except with Single Point systems, but even still), you want as close to "no" voltage through the frame and chassis.
No worries .... I didn't ground to the frame. All grounds lead to pack.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 07:35 PM   #18
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

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...On this same side I have one cable running to B-
I just saw this, there should be nothing going to B- from the solenoid.

The positive side of the Solenoid coil becomes whatever side the stripped end of the diode is connected to.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 07:37 PM   #19
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
Just FYI, no voltage over 24v can be connected to a chassis ground, so use the terminology "negative" wire instead of ground wire.

Also, assume any references to +48v to mean pack voltage.

Unless otherwise specified, it is safe to assume all voltage readings are in reference to B-.

Don't worry about the Throttle voltage on J1-15 and the error code until You get +48v on J1-8. The controller most likely will not output the +5v to the MCOR until it sees all interlock signals.

You mentioned the cables were also changed, I assume You have already checked the charging process is working right, which means the OBC is working and providing its interlock signal.

The other interlock signal is the micro switch in the MCOR, unplug the 2 pin connector from the MCOR.

The Blue wire should get +48v when you turn the key switch ON.
Put a paper clip to jump the 2 pins on that connector, if the controller works, the MCOR micro switch is bad.

If You now have the correct instructions for the Excel cart, You should already have run a separate negative wire to the speed sensor.

Also, make sure You are not using the factory Black/Yellow wire in the dashboard to connect a battery voltage meter or anything else.

I do have pack voltage showing on j1-8. Now there is a new MCor2 so there shouldn't be a problem there. Seperate wire is run to the speed sensor. The black and yellow wires in the dash don't seem to have anything connected to them. If that is a black and yellow striped wire then I couldn't find it. Sorry for my ignorance but I'm muddling my way through.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 07:40 PM   #20
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
I just saw this, there should be nothing going to B- from the solenoid.

The positive side of the Solenoid coil becomes whatever side the stripped end of the diode is connected to.
You're correct.... sorry pack ground runs to B-. The one cable runs to the controller while the red wire and positive pack cable run to the + side solenoid. Obviously I am confusing myself while trying to write this up.

Last edited by kuntryboy; 02-08-2015 at 07:41 PM.. Reason: Mistake in statement
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