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Unread 02-08-2015, 07:47 PM   #21
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

There is no polarity on the Big solenoid posts, one side should have pack positive and the 10ga red wire for the tow/run switch.

The other Big post is connected to the Controller B+.

The coil side of the solenoid will have polarity as soon as You connected the diode. Make sure again the stripped end is connected where the light blue wire (positive from key switch) is connected to.

Also, if You installed a walk-away relay, make sure the stripped end of the diode is where the positive coil wire is connected to.

J1-23 from the controller should be connected to the negative side of the walk away relay.

If Your meter has a diode check, disconnect one side of the diode from each solenoid and check to make sure neither diode is shorted.

Last edited by Sergio; 02-08-2015 at 08:06 PM.. Reason: More Info.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 08:11 PM   #22
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
There is no polarity on the Big solenoid posts, one side should have pack positive and the 10ga red wire for the tow/run switch.

The other Big post is connected to the Controller B+.

The coil side of the solenoid will have polarity as soon as You connected the diode. Make sure again the stripped end is connected where the light blue wire (positive from key switch) is connected to.

Also, if You installed a walk-away relay, make sure the stripped end of the diode is where the positive coil wire is connected to.

J1-23 from the controller should be connected to the negative side of the walk away relay.
Looks like I have the main cables hooked up correctly. I did install the walk away relay. As far as the diode.... My ignorance is obvious when I say that I am not sure what you're talking about here. Maybe this is my problem.

I have the light blue wire, that runs from the key switch, connected to the positive marked side of the solenoid. I'm not sure what stripped side you are speaking of unless your are talking about the precharge resistor that FSIP said to remove.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 08:26 PM   #23
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

Your new solenoid could have a built in diode if the coils have polarity markings, which means it could have failed if it was powered with reverse polarity.

You should have a single wire in each small Solenoid post.

Remove the "light blue wire".

Set Your meter to resistance test 2kΩ

Test between the two small solenoid posts.

With the red meter probe on the positive post, You should get around 470Ω.

With the red meter probe on the negative side, You should get a lower reading.

You are correct about the pre-charge resistor across the Big posts, the 1268 does not use it.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 08:42 PM   #24
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

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Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
Your new solenoid could have a built in diode if the coils have polarity markings, which means it could have failed if it was powered with reverse polarity.

You should have a single wire in each small Solenoid post.

Remove the "light blue wire".

Set Your meter to resistance test 2kΩ

Test between the two small solenoid posts.

With the red meter probe on the positive post, You should get around 470Ω.

With the red meter probe on the negative side, You should get a lower reading.

You are correct about the pre-charge resistor across the Big posts, the 1268 does not use it.

This might be my problem. Sergio! You are a GENIUS!

I checked it both directions and it seems that the reading I'm getting is a 161 on both readings. Does this mean that I just need to order a new heavy duty solenoid? I did have some things hooked up wrong initially and sent some sparks flying before I corrected my mistake. I was surprised that the controller didn't appear to have fried, but does that mean that I fried the new solenoid?
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Unread 02-08-2015, 08:54 PM   #25
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

161Ω is low but depending how big that solenoid is, 300ma coil current may be OK.

What kind of solenoid is it? Sometimes the diode leads are visible, it would be hard to burn the actual coil.

You can try disconnecting both wires from the small solenoid posts and apply 48v to the posts, with the correct polarity.

If You get big sparks, it means the diode was bad, but it will produce enough current to open the diode. You can then add a 3amp diode to the solenoid (site sponsors carry them).
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Unread 02-08-2015, 09:08 PM   #26
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

The solenoid is a CURTIS/Allbright Type SU280-1410P. It's a heavy duty solenoid I received from FSIP. The initial shock that I gave it was due to my ignorance and them sending the wrong directions, for the IQ instead of the Excel, and the wrong harness. I'm sure I can get them to work me a deal on a replacement, they have been very helpful after making the mistake of sending me the wrong kit.

Let me know if you think that reading is low enough to mean I blew the Diode on that model Solenoid. You can see more on it here

It's shows to be a 350 amp controller. Do you think I should ditch it for a 350amp and go for the 400amp. FSIP is one of the site sponsors and they have been great to me. Of course, I got my cables and brakes from Cartsunlimited and they were great as well.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 10:01 PM   #27
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

The SU280 can be ordered with suppression (diode) built in, the 1410 on the part number is vendor/customer specific so I cannot tell from that.

Try powering the solenoid as I posted directly from pack positive, it should turn on/off as You apply voltage.

Make sure You observe the polarity, and as I said if the first time You get big sparks, it should open the diode if it is indeed shorted.

I think that is a good solenoid, the only reason to go bigger is if You spend a lot of time with a heavy load and low speed (High torque=High current).

You can just disconnect one of the small post (coil) wires from the walk-away relay to remove it from the variables.
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Unread 02-08-2015, 10:23 PM   #28
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Red face Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
The SU280 can be ordered with suppression (diode) built in, the 1410 on the part number is vendor/customer specific so I cannot tell from that.

Try powering the solenoid as I posted directly from pack positive, it should turn on/off as You apply voltage.

Make sure You observe the polarity, and as I said if the first time You get big sparks, it should open the diode if it is indeed shorted.

I think that is a good solenoid, the only reason to go bigger is if You spend a lot of time with a heavy load and low speed (High torque=High current).

You can just disconnect one of the small post (coil) wires from the walk-away relay to remove it from the variables.
Hit the brakes! I just saw that you mentioned the walkaway relay being tied to a small post. On this setup I have the walkaway relay on the large posts, with the large cables. Is this incorrect? This solenoid has two small flat style connectors, same as the OEM solenoid, and two large posts. The only thing on those small posts is the light blue and dark blue wires. The walkaway relay is attached to the large posts and the instructions stated taht polarity didn't matter on these. Did I get it wrong?
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Unread 02-09-2015, 07:11 AM   #29
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

Sorry for the confusion, the 1268 controller can be programmed to monitor for excessive current drain in the Solenoid driver circuit (The coil that activates the solenoid).

The error code You are getting 4,2 indicates the controller thinks there is excessive current being used either for the main solenoid coil or the Walk-Away relay coil.

The controller uses the same error code for either driver.

The 1268 main solenoid driver is good for 2amps, which is 5 times more than would be needed for Your solenoid.

The only thing that would cause a higher current is if the solenoid has an internal diode that has either failed closed (like a short in a wire) or is installed in reverse so it conducts when is powered.

Either one of these scenarios would cause a current in excess of the 2 amp driver.

I suggest disconnecting one side (small posts) of the walk-away relay just to remove that being the source for the over current error.

Technically the controller should not be trying to engage the walk-away relay at the time You are getting the error, but just in case.

Look closely at the main solenoid, if it has factory installed internal suppression (diode), the small posts or spade connectors would have polarity markings (+ -).

It is important that the light blue wire from the key switch harness be connected to the coil (+) side.

Either way, You can disconnect both small posts and run a jumper from pack positive and pack negative directly to the coil.

Since the pack can provide much higher current than the 1268 driver, if there is an internal diode and it has failed closed (a short), this will cause the diode to overheat and open.

The 1268 controller has internal diode protection for both the Main Solenoid and the walk-away relay, so it is ok to not use diodes at the solenoid.

Interesting enough, the driver over current protection can be disabled in the program. The manual implies that it can be affected by noise and sometimes it can generate false errors.
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Unread 02-09-2015, 09:05 AM   #30
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Default Re: I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

I was about to say, you need the manual lol their website has the documentation which is nice.
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