I2 Excel upgrade to Curtis 1268 Controller Problems

kuntryboy

Look for some help for my Kuntry state of mind:

I've got a 2009 Club Car Precedent I2 Excel cart. I've just upgraded to ScottB's #2 cables, a Plum Quick Executioner motor and then went through FSIP for a controller upgrade to the Curtis 1268 Controller and heavy duty solenoid.

The upgrade was a little complicated, for my simple mind, because FSIP accidentally ordered and sent me the kit for an IQ cart. I muddled through installation without proper instructions and the wrong harness. After several calls to their excellent Tech Support guys they mailed me the correct harness and I got all of it connected correctly, I think. Hooked the battery pack back up and flipped from tow to run and then turned my switch on.... Shows 50.6V on my meter across the pack but I received nothing when pressing the accelerator.

I noted that the controller had a yellow blinking that would blink once pause and then blink twice. This was referred to from FSIP tech guys as the "1,2" code which signified an accelerator problem. I know that the Excel had a different TPS throttle set up initially which was recalled and adapted to MCor2 and that may be throwing this issue since they originally programmed my controller for an IQ cart.

They asked me to provide them with voltage readings from the J1-8 and J1-15 on the 24 pin connector going into my controller. I know that the J1-8 is the pedal intlerlock switch and J1-15 is the POT wiper. Supposedly J1-8 should show the same voltage as my battery pack. Is that correct? When I check this reading I get 0.00v reading.

J1-15 was tested with the accelerator at rest with a .1 showing for voltage. With the pedal depressed it shows the same. I am checking my voltage while touching the ground for my meter to the wires going into B- which should be my ground. I checked my M- and B+ and show 9.68v at each of these. Is that good or bad?

Anyhow, I'm ready for some of you geniuses to jump in and teach me something. HELP!

BGW

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Sergio

Just FYI, no voltage over 24v can be connected to a chassis ground, so use the terminology "negative" wire instead of ground wire.

Also, assume any references to +48v to mean pack voltage.

Unless otherwise specified, it is safe to assume all voltage readings are in reference to B-.

Don't worry about the Throttle voltage on J1-15 and the error code until You get +48v on J1-8. The controller most likely will not output the +5v to the MCOR until it sees all interlock signals.

You mentioned the cables were also changed, I assume You have already checked the charging process is working right, which means the OBC is working and providing its interlock signal.

The other interlock signal is the micro switch in the MCOR, unplug the 2 pin connector from the MCOR.

The Blue wire should get +48v when you turn the key switch ON.
Put a paper clip to jump the 2 pins on that connector, if the controller works, the MCOR micro switch is bad.

If You now have the correct instructions for the Excel cart, You should already have run a separate negative wire to the speed sensor.

Also, make sure You are not using the factory Black/Yellow wire in the dashboard to connect a battery voltage meter or anything else.

scooterman

I have the same year cart 2012 precedent so just wanting to see the outcome. I was giving thought to just converting to the IQ harness because this is what I have on my other cart, executioner and the Curtis 500a controller. Works like factory on that cart, was easy to install. The electronics in the controllers may not have all the same features as the excel versions but for a cart to ride around in, IMO set it and forget it, I'll never really need more.

Cart Sports

No voltage should ever be applied to ground. With the acid that inevitably comes from the batteries (except with Single Point systems, but even still), you want as close to "no" voltage through the frame and chassis.

CCFanatic

You don't want any frame grounds on electric carts. It is a good way to kill expensive components

TahoeDawgZ71

I can't speak from experience because I've never done it. I'm referring to the 1268 conversion on an Excel car, but I've heard enough horror stories to keep me from ever wanting to try. I can, however, tell you that I've done them on IQ cars before with no issues at all. I'd highly recommend installing the IQ wire harness on the car before upgrading it to the 1268. I know it works. Part number is 103374901.

txpres

I agree!
I converted my Excel to IQ with no problem.

Sergio

I think the only issue really is the common negative the Excel harness, and it appears also the IQ harness with an original TPS converted to MCOR have between the MCOR negative and speed sensor and battery meter.

Here is someone else with the same setup and it worked fine after he removed all negatives from the MCOR purple wire.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1101455

teecro

The only problem I had with installing the Curtis 1268 Controller was of my own fault; as while plugging the speed sensor back in the pin shifted out of place in the plug and was not making contact.... Took me a while to figure out what the Sam L I did wrong till I counted the LED flash on the controller....

scooterman

When I was installing this controller on my 2008.5 IQ the instructions did make this clear about the negatives. Wasn't so much the iq but excel types if I remember correctly. The problem is the way it is written unless your familiar with this, I can see where it would get overlooked.