11-18-2008, 09:41 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Zephyrhills,FL
Posts: 36
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Brakes
Hi guys, I have a 2000 48v DS cart and the brakes just will not stop the cart. I seem to have alot of resistance when I push the brake pedal and it doesn't go down very far but it just doesn't stop. Is there some that I can clean the pads with or should I ruff up the pads with a wire wheel or something? How about the drums anything I can do there? Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks in advance, Chris |
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11-18-2008, 10:50 PM | #2 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 76
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Re: Brakes
Check You Brake Cables They May Be Sticking With Rust On The Inside
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11-18-2008, 11:19 PM | #3 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,418
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Re: Brakes
With a late model cart I don't suspect rust so much as glazed shoes. Remove the wheels adjust the shoes down to where the drum spins freely and remove, shoes may appear shinny if they are glazed and can be refreshed with very coarse sanding paper and steel wool for the drum. Be sure to do this in a well ventilated area with a dust mask on as asbestos is airborne during the process......shoes are glazed when contaminated by oils or adjusted too tight so as to drag constantly and heat up.....reinstall and adjust.......
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11-19-2008, 07:18 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Zephyrhills,FL
Posts: 36
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Re: Brakes
Thanks guys I'll try that this weekend. I was told that on my year cart that the brakes are self adjusting by driving in reverse and hitting the brakes to adjust them, is this true and the best way to do this?
Thanks again, Chris |
11-19-2008, 08:25 AM | #5 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,418
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Re: Brakes
I don't trust self adjusters....not on a 8yr old cart. Others who know better than me may differ with this opinion. But they have been in use on cars for 30 yrs and rarely do you seen one adjusted properly. If you are dependent on self adjusters do not attempt doing your own brake job. Take it to a qualified repair shop. Good Luck
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11-19-2008, 09:03 AM | #6 |
Master BS'r
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 1,819
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Re: Brakes
Chris,
Are those the original drums and pads...have you looked at them? If you have them adjusted all the way out you might just have caliper on drum. Prior to replacing mine I had resistance...just couldn't stop. My pads were completely gone and the drums were about a 1/16" thick...yikes. Simple brake job BTW. |
11-19-2008, 09:37 AM | #7 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 76
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Re: Brakes
Also If You Mud A Lot You Will Get Dirt In Between The Shoe And Drum And It Will Act Like Marbles And Drum Will Keep Rolling But You Will Have A Good Pedal
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12-21-2008, 03:25 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 4
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Re: Brakes
DO NOT use sandpaper or any other grit paper as the grit will embed in the lining and cause the drums to wear quicker. I would scrape the surface lightly with a flat blade to remove glaze, also make sure the drums are free of old lining dust.
I had a similar problem and I unbolted the main shaft shaft bearings that are two halves and greased them I also removed each of the linkage (clevis) pins including the ones on the back of the drums and greased them, I checked the cables for free operation and oiled as required, with all the moving parts lubricated the difference. was amazing. its a lot of work bet well worth it. |
12-21-2008, 03:54 PM | #9 |
The Last Moja Morani
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: jumping from cart to cart
Posts: 8,975
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Re: Brakes
for the price of drums and shoes you can put all new stuff on and save yourself a ton of time.......both sides wouldn,t cost more than 70.00 dollars for drums and shoes...........................................
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