voltage reducer upgrade

MDLNB

97 CC DS 48 volt

I have one of those club car 18 volt to 12 volt reducers, hooked up to two of my batteries, and to the controller. I believe it is something like a Volt 0001 model. Most likely you know what I'm talking about.

So, I want to upgrade so I purchased a 60/48/36 volt to 12 volt(30 amp) reducer. This one has five wires, two for power in, two for power out (12 volt) and one for the switch. I believe the orange wire is the cut off wire, which supposedly goes to the key switch.

I read some of the older posts on this forum regarding differing ways of connecting the reducer. I do have lights on my cart, but I don't have a radio. I don't plan to put one on it but I do plan on adding more lights (led) and an accessory plug. A couple of posts on this site said NOT to hook the cut off wire to the key switch. I think it mentioned frying the controller. Another in the EZgo section said to hook it up to the solenoid. If this is feasible, I like the idea of connecting to the solenoid instead of the key switch. Is this a GOOD option? If so, do I connect it to the post where the line (green I believe) comes in from the key switch? I am sure that I can use a meter on it to make sure that it doesn't have any voltage moving through it when I have the key off.

How much drain would there be on my batteries if I was to just hard wire the cut off wire to the battery? Does a reducer really siphon that much juice when the cart is not in use?

BGW

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MDLNB

On other posts, it was suggested/advised that the cut off wire be connected to one of the large connectors on the Solenoid. Mine must be somewhat different, as one of the connectors goes directly to the pos. battery post and the other goes to the controller. Therefore, I assume that the "cut off" wire from the voltage reducer be connected to the small connection of the solenoid where it appears there is some kind of resister???? Does that sound right?

mymonstertruck

I would check your key switch with a volt meter and check to see if you have 48 volts. If you have a 48 volt key switch there shouldn't be a problem with attaching to the key switch.

Sergio

The correct way to connect a voltage reducer is:

Positive - Directly to pack positive with a fuse as close as posibble to the battery.

Negative - To controller B- or to the negative bullet connector or junction box off of B- (depending on club Car model)

Tigger Wire - Cold side of Key switch (the one that does not have power when switch is OFF).

If the reducer did not have a "trigger wire" (meaning a low current turn on-off circuit), then You would have to use a 48v relay and wire the relay coil to the cold side of the key switch.

The Normally Open contacts of the Relay would then be used to turn the converter on/off.

Remember fuses primarily protect wires from catching on fire not components from getting damaged.

Here is a good chart for DC current wire sizing:

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...on_chartlg.jpg

Just make sure the fuse You use for your accessories is less than the maximum current carrying capacity for the wire You select.

MDLNB

I was kinda hoping that I wouldn't have to go to the key switch. Hate to have to take the whole dash off in order to get to the back of the key switch. Lazy in my old age

Sergio

There are only 3 screws to remove the dash on the precedent, not sure on your DS, but make sure the battery pack is disconnected when you do it.

The confusion is that in some models the key switch directly powers one of the solenoid small terminals, that is not the case on Your DS.

This diagram may be easier on your eyes:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...car_ds_48v.jpg

The "trigger wire" from the converter would connect to the Blue wire on the key switch.

scottyb

The DS has 2 screws that release the dash panel. Be certain you have disconnected the battery pack main BEFORE you pull the dash out on a DS cart. The Key switch terminals rub the metal frame and make for some nasty sparks if you don't.

MDLNB

Ahh! I thought I would have to remove the two bolts holding the roof onto the dash. I can see at least three little black screws around the edge of the dash. Thought I would have to remove those also. I have to take another look at this thing. Thanks for your patience, you guys. I am sure that you are pretty tired of repeating the same thing, over and over again. But, I really appreciate it.

MDLNB

Turns out that I not only had to remove the two roof support bolts, but another six screws to get the dash off, so that I could get to the old key switch. Since everything else seems screwed up for a '97 DS, I figured I had better take the volt meter to the two connections on the switch to see which one was hot and which was not. Then, just to double check, I turned the key and made sure the one that was not, was now getting power. Simple right? OK, so I took the last battery cable negative loose and just to be safe I checked the switch again. Lo and behold, I no longer had 48 volts, but I now had about 14 volts. I still had the old 16volt to 12 volt reducer hooked up, so I guess it was still pumping out some volts from somewhere. I ran a line from the switch to the battery compartment and left it at that for right now. I have to do something with the wife, so I have to get cleaned up. Tomorrow, I will connect a marine terminal block somewhere in the battery compartment and then see if I can find a convenient place to mount the voltage reducer. It appears to be pretty simple. Fiver wires. Two wires for 48 volts in, one for the cutoff switch and two wires out, 12 volts.

Note: While I was under the cart, running the ignition wire under the frame, I looked for the horn location. For crying out loud, it's mounted way up under the front cowl, behind the dash board. But, you really can't reach it from the dash area. I was give a 12 volt air horn as a gift for my Harley, and didn't think it looked very good, so I was thinking of mounting it to the Club Car. I have a feeling that the only way I could get my hands into that space would be to remove the cowl, and that means messing with a bunch of old light wiring. One other solution would be to just mount it somewhere else and maybe get my hands up there enough to remove the wires from the old horn, to use for the new horn.

You know, the more I examine this cart, the more I get the idea that this looks more like a '99 rather than a '97, from the inside. Seems like none of the '97 drawings match up my electronics.

joesam

That's a lotta pulling apart! My 1996 DS dash (happens to be Regen 1 but that's not important) is two screws along the side/upper edges with goofy little plastic caps on them. Then the little plastic center dash can be squeezed/pulled out. Were you trying to get behind the storage bins too? Or do you have a 3rd party non OEM dash?