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Unread 04-01-2015, 09:51 AM   #31
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Default Re: Electrical system and testing

Unfortunately since there is no 15v power to the sensor, no sensor will work on that controller.

Unless you tested the controller 15v output before you tried the new sensor, there is a scary possibility of one of the sensors having an internal short on the input power to negative.

The scary part is that would be a $1,000 issue so far and probably worse if You get a new controller.

Those sensors have a wide power input range, so You may want to do a simple current check.

Wire a 9v battery in series with your meter set to DC current and apply power to the Red and Black wires of the sensor.

You should measure around 20-50mA, if Your meter blows a fuse or shows over-current, that would mean the sensor is internally shorted.
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Unread 04-01-2015, 10:30 PM   #32
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Default Re: Electrical system and testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71 View Post
It's an aftermarket sensor....... Factory sensors have red, black, and green wires. I'd bet that's the problem. As jakesnake said, LOTS of people have had problems with those aftermarket sensors right out of the bag.
tomorrow I'll switch one of the good with the ones I'm having trouble with and see if that's the problem and get a factory sensors.
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Unread 04-01-2015, 10:32 PM   #33
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Default Re: Electrical system and testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
Unfortunately since there is no 15v power to the sensor, no sensor will work on that controller.

Unless you tested the controller 15v output before you tried the new sensor, there is a scary possibility of one of the sensors having an internal short on the input power to negative.

The scary part is that would be a $1,000 issue so far and probably worse if You get a new controller.

Those sensors have a wide power input range, so You may want to do a simple current check.

Wire a 9v battery in series with your meter set to DC current and apply power to the Red and Black wires of the sensor.

You should measure around 20-50mA, if Your meter blows a fuse or shows over-current, that would mean the sensor is internally shorted.
I'll try that tomorrow
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Unread 04-02-2015, 11:46 AM   #34
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Default Re: Electrical system and testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by kishibi View Post
tomorrow I'll switch one of the good with the ones I'm having trouble with and see if that's the problem and get a factory sensors.
Good Sensor didn't work in the bad cart and put the good sensor back in the good cart ran perfect fine, I'm going to check the aftermarket ones in a good cart to see if i wasted my money. After switching the good sensor with the aftermarket one everything ran fine. i even switch the old one on the broken i thought it was broken in the good cart and it work just fine. all and all i hope it just reverted its speed.
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Unread 04-02-2015, 10:57 PM   #35
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Default Re: Electrical system and testing

Walk Away Braking Relay Test without the IQDM Handset

1. Turn the key switch to the OFF position and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the NEUTRAL position.
2. Slowly push the vehicle a short distance (about 3 feet (1 meter)).
3. You should feel resistance as motor braking is applied. The reverse buzzer will also begin pulsing. If neither
of these conditions are present, test the Motor Speed Sensor. See Test Procedure 14 Motor
Speed Sensor on page 11-38. If the Motor Speed Sensor is operational, replace the walk away braking relay.

I think i'm going to replace power relay to see if thats the Problem.
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Unread 04-03-2015, 03:06 PM   #36
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Talking Re: Electrical system and testing

Awesome after replacing my power relay from an broken charger that had the same relay, Club Car 1018286-01 and put in the broken one and it work like new. happy to to say happy Good Friday to me.
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Unread 04-03-2015, 11:50 PM   #37
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Default Re: Electrical system and testing

Replacing the Walk-away braking power relay help my cart go out of limp mode.
After test my speed sensor was good.
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