98 electric club car (48v) won't run

jodahall

Hey Guys....

this is my first post so be gentle. I have a 98 electric club car (48v) that i bought recently. I know it was submerged so i've been trying to get it going and i'm having no luck. i've scoured the web and read countless threads but without spending a bunch of money i think i'm stuck and hoping you guys can give me some direction, before i have to start sinking tonnes of money into this thing.

I have spent the better part of a week cleaning contacts and charging batteries and replacing corroded wires, now i've put it all back together and i get nothing.

Here is what i've done.

- replaced corroded wires
- replaced key switch
- replaced battery wires
- cleaned all contacts
- installed a new solenoid (with a 400a heavy duty), only 1 of 2
- charging works so i believe the OBC is good
- i've tested the motor separately with a 12v battery and it worked so i think the motor is good


after charging the batteries i have a pack voltage of 49v. I know there are two batteries that are not the best (they hold their charge right around 8.01v but with the pack voltage being over 48v i think it's good enough to get something.

when i switch the tow/run switch to run i hear the new solenoid click a couple of times....this is even before i put it in forward or reverse and press the gas pedal.....not sure if that is an issue or not

reading the forums i've heard about solenoids going and controllers going, but before i spend $300+ on a new controller i want to make sure i need one.

i've taken readings from various places, here are the readings

- + side of solenoid 48v
- FR switch in forward 48v
- yellow wire on controller 48v
- green wire from controller 48v
- white wire from 2nd solenoid 48v

nothing happens when i press the pedal and none of the voltages change. the one thing that i did notice and don't think is right is the two small wires on motor never have any voltage. They come from the controller so that could indicate an issue.

so here are some of the questions i have

- is there a way to test the controller to see if its good or bad
- what are the chances that the multistep potentiometer has been ruined because of the submerging. it looks like a pretty simple object and looks intact
- how can i test the potentiometer
- for testing purposes do i need the 2nd solenoid or can i bypass it
- if i have to get a new controller which one should i get, i eventually want to put a lift on it and increase the speed of the cart
- from the diagrams on the web it looks like my 98 is a regen 2 cart, do i need to use the regen system or can i get rid of it and make it more simple. I don't care about the little extra battery life i would get from it regen'ing (good english there) I prefer simple.

BGW

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joesam

Not many people are fans of the early Regen carts. They do have limitations and can be a bit quirky.

Do you have the service manual supplement for that particular 1998 Regen 2 cart? There are troubleshooting/tests in there. You're too new - I can't PM you - so shoot a quick email to joesam_nex@hotmail.com and let me know when you've done that.

jodahall

I think i do have that manual with the troubleshooting. I will try that tonight when i get home

joesam

OK - if you conduct tests #1 thru #5 that should eliminate any causes outside of the controller. They aren't complex - (eg. test#1 is for battery pack voltage).

jodahall

ok, went home and checked, I don't have the service manual, only the owners manual which has no good tests. I will try and track down the service manual.

but as for tests done so far.

- i've tested the motor against a 12v battery and it worked so i assume that is good.
- i have a load tester so i have tested individual battery loads, i have 4 in the good range, two that are a little weak.
- i have charged the batteries with the charger and it seems to work well
- i have bypassed the key and just hooked up the two connectors together so i can take that out of the question.
- i have done an ohms test on the tow/run switch and it seems ok

yesterday i removed the 2nd solenoid and i will jumper it to take that out of the question.

and i've found a thread talking about testing individual pins on the connectors as that one person had an issue with one of their pins.

Also i see in the wiring diagram there is one wire red/white coming from the OBC that shows it has a fuse in it, i haven't been able to find the fuse, could it be inside the cable covering ??

joesam

1) good to test the motor - so that sounds OK
2) Batteries sound "fair" but OK for a driving test.
3) If charger turns itself off - OBC is "likely" OK (but one more thing to check)
4) Key test is a good idea - sounds OK
5) Tow/Run test is part of the 5 step sequence If I recall

I haven't seen a fuse inside the wiring harness before - I may be able to check a drawing I have at home to confirm there is one at all.

Also - I sent you a PM

joesam

BTW when the cart does eventually run - if you have bypassed/shorted the dynamic braking solenoid/resistor; you are likely to experience very harsh deceleration (AKA press nose to windshield) when you lift your foot off the gas....just FYI.

joesam

Hey - speaking of your Red/Wht wire - while looking at the diagram for your cart, I noticed you've got a "sonic weld" which is...in fact....buried within your wiring harness. Those are well known to be not-so-welded (especially in the presence of water/immersion). Make sure you find it, and confirm the continuity of that 3-way connection.

theboss20

I have the same cart and don't want to make a mistake...I have a long encapsulated unit mounted on one of the frame rails....when I asked about it before everybody said it was a voltage reducer...but it appears to originate at the controller and attach to the battery pack with a single wire...? This cart does not have a run/tow switch...also because I am going with a new type of wireless light system there will not be active wires from the brake switch...will that make the regen inoperative?