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Unread 04-02-2015, 02:17 PM   #1
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Default Tips to "rattle-can" my top

I know some of you out there have done this. I have my top removed and cleaned up and want to paint it black. Wondering if anyone has any tips or experience as far as how many cans/coats I need and what paint works best? I was thinking something with a satin finish and maybe using Krylon Fusion for plastic.
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Unread 04-02-2015, 03:21 PM   #2
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

I painted some Jeep fender flares with Krylon fusion and it held up for years! The key is in the prep work. Make sure you scuff the area and cleanit well with rubbing alcohol. Several light coats should do it!
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Unread 04-02-2015, 03:40 PM   #3
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

Check out master66's Sticky in the Body and Paint subsection in the Design Center area. He's a pro and covers what you're asking ( including the Krylon Fusion).


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Unread 04-02-2015, 04:05 PM   #4
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

He specifically addresses painting the body and I would be much more careful doing so. But the top is easy enough to remove and repair/repaint if necessary. It's a golf course retiree - even more than that, it's a replacement top from a retiree because my son flipped my cart and ruined the original top. So, it has its share of scratches and scrapes already from people running under trees and lord knows what. Painting it black will hide that stuff better and will also look better with the way i'm redoing the entire cart.
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Unread 04-02-2015, 04:11 PM   #5
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

I repainted my buddies ez-go a few years with satin black Krylon fusion and it's holding up good. I used laquer thinner with a red scotchbrite to prep it with a final wash of wax & grease remover before painting.
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Unread 04-02-2015, 04:25 PM   #6
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

You are on the right track with a satin finish for rattle can. If the top has texture use a satin or semi-gloss finish and it will look good and not "look" painted. Plastic is funny stuff and its hard to get rattle can to come out good in gloss but in a matte type finish it can come out much better. Not say'in rattle can gloss will not paint plastic IMO its just looks better with a matte type finish. Wipe it down lightly with a clean rag and lacquer.

Now days Krylon came out with Fusion but if you go to their website most of their paints say plastic and work well for it. I tried Fusion on a garden chair when it came out but did not like it as well. To me.. it came out very thick looking and obvious.

Of note I like Krylon's spray nozzles better than Rustoleum's. They plug and drip when pressure gets lower. Also "sun" your cans to warm them and spray in shade above 75 deg. if you can. Another tip.... get a fan so after you spray it you can blow low speed air across the top to keep insects away!

The little buggers love fresh paint and will land on it very fast! Do not try to pick them off if they do unless you have very small tweezers and just grab a leg or wing slowly... Don't try to grab the whole body. You can let small ones stay and sand them off with fine paper later.

Krylon makes a Colormaster paint in satin that says "metal- wood- plastic and more" So this is what I used on my WPR Camo build for our Toro Workmans resin body parts.

Whisper'in Pines Ranch (WPR) Camo Job

I used to detail engines and cars back in the late 70's. On the parts in the engine area I always used Krylon semi-gloss black lacquerer or semi-gloss clear on plastic parts and they come out looking new. Everybody else used black gloss or clear gloss on their detail jobs and the dealers wanted to know why our stuff looked like it was "not done" but as factory new and all the other guys looked "painted" and bad. Never gave up that trick.

I have sold stuff on fleabay for Early Broncos and used the same finish and they come out like factory look.

This came out fresh and like new after a walnut blast in the cabinet on the plastic to promote the grain in the plastic cover then black Krylon semi-flat on the cover.

Early Bronco T shifter Consol.jpg

Practice on something of "like" plastic if possible to develop your technique before you start on your top. Spray from wet into dry to cut down on streaks and with good light! Ever see a paint booth and how much lights they have? They need light to see the "wet line"

Another tip.... if you live by a golf cart company that does custom stuff... see if they will give you a top they have removed to do a custom tops.
Try to get one of the same type plastic. I went to a custom builder here in So. Cal. to see if I could buy a removed top and they gave me 2 tops! They just throw them away!

Hope this helps ... Good luck!

Last edited by Bronco Barney; 04-02-2015 at 07:54 PM.. Reason: info link
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Unread 04-02-2015, 04:59 PM   #7
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

I used the flat black Krylon Fusion after a simple soap and water cleaning and it's been holding up quite well. About 4 cans to apply a couple of light coats if I recall.

Easier than you think if you aren't looking for show cart quality!
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Unread 04-02-2015, 05:46 PM   #8
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

I used the truck I undercoating because the surface ed so scratched up it is textured.
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Unread 04-02-2015, 08:15 PM   #9
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

I am blacking most everything on the cart, so I wanted to do my flat silver speaker grills also. Put a couple coats on them today with the Krylon Fusion Satin black and they came out looking great. Will start on the top tomorrow.
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Unread 04-03-2015, 04:13 PM   #10
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Default Re: Tips to "rattle-can" my top

I've done several cart tops and I use spay on bed liner for truck beds. I think the Rust-Oleum brand works the best. I've done at least 6-8 of them with great results. I've done Yamaha, Club Car and EZGO tops.
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