97 Club Car - Won't Move - Solenoid Clicks - Resistor Question

jroeiii

97 Club Car DS 48v

Cart was working fine other than an intermittent rattle coming from the rear end - could be the motor brushes or something. Parked as normal and hasn't moved since a few weeks ago.

Key ON - pedal is depressed - Solenoid clicks, but what happens if the resistor is bad and out of spec from Test Procedure 7.2? I originally suspected the controller since there was no power to the F&R switch. But once it was bench tested it was reported working fine. If I trace the wiring diagram - the RED wire from the solenoid goes to the Controller Pin #1 -- 48v -- assume this is the input voltage referred to in Test Procedure 10.3. Makes me suspect if the voltage is not passed correctly to the controller, it won't "turn-on" to send power to the F&R switch and the cart will do nothing as it's doing now.

From the Service Manual I see the following:

Solenoid
1) Loose wires. Figure 20-2 or 20-3,Page 20-3 or 20-4
2) Failed contacts. Test Procedure 7

Test Procedure 7 - Solenoid Contacts (Power Off):
As stated in WARNING above, follow procedures exactly.
- REMOVE THE KEY.
- PUT THE FORWARD AND REVERSE SWITCH IN NEUTRAL.
- DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES AS SHOWN (FIGURE 20-1, PAGE 20-2).

1. Remove the yellow wire and red wire from the large posts of the solenoid. Remove resistor assembly. Place the red (+) probe of the VOM on one of the large posts of the solenoid and the black (-) probe of the meter on the other large post on the solenoid. It should show no continuity. If the VOM shows continuity, replace the solenoid.
2. Using a VOM, check for continuity between both resistor terminals. If reading is not approximately 250 ohms, replace the resistor.





Batteries
Test Procedure 1 -- Check Battery Pack Voltage B- B+ for > 48v

PASS

Solenoid
Test Procedure 7 - Solenoid Contacts (Power Off):

REPLACED NEW - CLICKS - DID NOT REPLACE RESISTOR

Forward and Reverse Switch
Test Procedure 6 - Forward/Reverse Switch:
Testing the Forward and Reverse (F&R) Switch
Test Procedure 3 - Forward/Reverse Anti-Arcing Limit Switch:
Test Procedure 4 - Accelerator Pedal Limit Switch:

Potentiometer
Test Procedure 8 - Multi-step Potentiometer:
Test Procedure 9 - Continuously Variable Potentiometer:

Controller
Test Procedure 10 - Solid State Speed Controller:

BENCH TEST REPORTED WORKING AS NORMAL

Motor
To test run a series motor



FWIW -- I started pulling together a simple step by step doc from the service manual and other posts I found here. If anyone wants to use feel free.

Attached Files

96-97_Troubleshooting_SolenoidControllerMotor_Testing_050715.pdf (1,003.6 KB, 0 views)

BGW

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jroeiii

I appear to not have 5v on pin 2 controller input - power source bad any ideas what to check next?

scottyb

In 97 CC made a couple of drive systems.

1. Can you ID your drive system below?

2. What is the battery pack voltage at rest?

Attached Images

ezgo-guide-#2.jpg (139.0 KB, 0 views)

jroeiii

Hi ScottyB - Definitely Series cart. Silver Curtis 1204-412 300 AMP Controller.

Battery Pack is 48.4v at rest, hasn't been charged in a few weeks.

Solenoid
REPLACED NEW - CLICKS - Upon Pedal Depressed.
RESISTOR SHOWS 239 Ohms Resistance

F/R Switch
I have no voltage on the F/R switch BLUE or ORANGE cables.

(I have a 96DS cart next to it showing 51.4v on the F/R switch with - on B- and + on BLUE / ORANGE cables)

jroeiii

I fixed the controller input voltage on pin #2 green (7.8v) when pedal pressed and matches the other cart.

The odd thing is the F/R switch voltage shows 26v in N and 1.7v in F/R.


My working cart is 52v in F/R and 10.7v in N

Contrasting those two is 1/2 the voltage and sent FROM the motor terminals when in Neutral? What gives - am I staring at a dead / shorted motor?

All readings taken from battery #1 negative.

jroeiii

Get out the butter - motor appears to be toast.

- applied to A1
A2 cross connected to S1
+17v applied to S2

No spark / no load / nothing.

sthreatt

I would think that to indicate a bad motor ... possibly bad brushes or a broken brush spring.