93 CC 36v 'always on'

doclomlom

Hi -- I have a 93 V-glide 36v CC that still runs pretty good - except now, when ever the cart is engaged in Forward, it starts to move very slow, as if the accelerator pedal was pushed a bit. If the parking brake is engaged, and it's left in Forward, the coils get very hot. The same happens for Reverse. As well, this all happens even with the the key off (or no key at all). A couple years ago I replaced the F/N/R mechanism and solenoid after a fire, so I'm guessing those parts are good! (That story can be found here: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...blems-now.html )

Thanks in advance for any help.

Greg

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

93yellowclubcar

1 or 2 issues here. Either your V-glide arm isn't returning down far enough to hit the arm on the microswitch and "turn off" you cart or the microswitch is broken and always on. Very possibly both.

The key should cut power though, my guess is there is something miswired also.

Here's the diagram for your cart, I would start by confirming that everything is wired correctly.

crash test dummy

Stan is correct you have 2 problems
power on all the time = the key switch is bad
moving while no gas pedal push / hot coils = v-glide not adjusted right




adjustments attached

Attached Images

	pages_251.png (36.5 KB, 0 views)
	pages_251_3.png (70.2 KB, 0 views)
	pages_251_30.png (76.9 KB, 0 views)

doclomlom

OK, thanks you guys for this. I will check all these issues. The wiring diagram is very helpful. I won't be back at my cart till next weekend, but I will keep you posted. Thanks!!

Greg

Sergio

Did You guys catch that part?

The most likely problem is a "welded" solenoid.

Make sure the "limit switch" in the FNR is working properly and not by-passed.

Also as mentioned, make sure the pedal is returning all the way.

Both of those could cause arc on the solenoid contacts when it closes, and that can weld the contacts.

Edit: Missed where 93yellowclubcar mentioned to make sure the wiring is correct, but wow, has it been wrong for 2 years?

doclomlom

hi guys -- I removed the key switch (removed the wires) and the problem still exists, so I'm guessing that's not it. Before I start pulling batteries out to get to the vglide, is there any way to check or test the solenoid first? Preferably without having to remove it? Are there certain voltages I can check for, referring to the wiring diagram 93yellowclubcar attached? Thanks very much!!

Greg

tag50

Disconnect the cables from the pack neg. and pos.

With the system dead there should be no continuity between the large posts of the solenoid.

You can check the function of micro switch in the V-glide with the meter at the ends of the small gauge black and green wires at the back of the charger port and the small post of the solenoid while operating the go pedal.


.

crash test dummy

solenoid test

doclomlom

Thanks for all this, you guys are very helpful!

I removed the solenoid connections and there is continuity across the large posts, so I guess that is my problem. I replaced the solenoid about 4 years ago after an electrical fire, not sure why it would go on me. I will this opportunity to examine the vglide mechanism as described above as well. There is also continuity across the small solenoid posts, not sure if that matters. But noting across large / small posts.

Thanks, I will keep you posted when I put in the new solenoid.

Greg

PS -- I did not try the jumper cable test, I had removed 2 batteries to get at the solenoid so my pack was all disassembled.

crash test dummy

yep that's a bad solenoid ... i've seen solenoids last years and go in weeks