1995 Club Car DS solenoid not clicking over

JaseKart

Hi all,

I'm really hoping someone can help me. I just bought a 1995 Club Car DS. It ran great for 2 weeks and now she's dead. The solenoid isn't clicking over. Ive replaced the solenoid, micro switches behind the f/r switch and I just ordered a Pot micro switch because I blew the one that was in it while trying to fixy cart. I've ran various tests on the cart. And especially thanks to a lot of the posts on here I've been able to troubleshoot a good chunk of it myself. So here's what I've done this far and what's been happening....

1. As stated, solenoid is NEW ( I bought 2...tested both) and they won't click over. I've jumped the large terminals with a screwdriver and the wheels go when the key is turned and the pedal is pressed. SOMETHING is not activating the solenoid and closing the circuit. I also just tried to make the solenoid click by wiring one small terminal to the last neg and the other to the first poz of the bank. The solenoid clicks so it does function.


Here are the voltage readings: this is with the cart fully wired and batteries plugged in. Full bank reads 52.4 volts.
1. Key turned off. Cart in forward. Green and white wire on micro switch behind shifter coming from pedal reads 0 when pedal not pressed or pressed. Key on: green and white wire reads 52.4 when pedal pressed. 0 when not pressed.
2. Black and white wire going from shifter micro switch to solenoid reads 52.4 volts with pedal pressed. 0 volts not pressed.
3. Small post on solenoid with black and white wire and a red wire and red end of diode reads 52.4 volts when pedal pressed. 0 when not pressed.
4. Other small post with yellow wire and other end of diode reads 52.4 with pedal pressed. 0 volts not pressed.
5. Large post of solenoid with 2 red wires, a green wire, a resistor, and a large red wire (coming from positive battery) reads 52.4 with pedal pressed or not pressed.
6. Other large post with thick yellow wire leading to controller and other end of resistor reads 52.4 with pedal not pressed and then goes down to 0 with pedal pressed.
7. Yellow wire connecting to controller reads 52.4 with pedal not pressed and 0 with pedal pressed.

Hope this gives it a clear picture of what's happening.

My ultimate question is...WHERE IS THE CIRCUIT NOT CLOSING THAT ITS PREVENTING THE SOLENOID FROM ACTIVATING? Between all the rewiring I'm not sure if I mounted the solenoid to the frame and if it has to be mounted to be grounded. In the process of the extensive testing I have blown my potentiometer micro switch. I actually debated on trying to use an extra F/R micro switch o have and rigging it next to the pot box to test it but I don't want to do further (and expensive) damage. I already ordered the pot micro switch and it should arrive in a few days. If I ran a wire from the small post with the yellow wire (that runs to the OBC) to the mount of the solenoid and mounted it to the frame would that close the circuit? I've been at this for daaaays. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you

Jase

BGW

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CCFanatic

DON'T ground anything to the frame on electric carts. A very good way to create expensive problems

JaseKart

This is the solenoid I have

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JaseKart

There's an original mounting location on the frame for the solenoid? Don't solenoids need to be mounted in that location to ground the solenoid? Looking online I was under the impression that the mounts on the solenoid are their grounds

Sergio

No vehicle with over 24v can be grounded to a chassis.

It looks like the OBC lockout is not working. It should provide a negative signal to the solenoid through the yellow wire when the charger is not plugged in.

You need to disconnect the yellow wire from the OBC to the small solenoid post and run a new wire from that small post on the solenoid to the Controller B- terminal.

JaseKart

Which terminal is that? The controller has 6 terminals, 3 small and 3 large. What else would be connected to that terminal so I know I have the correct one? I've attached a photo of the wiring diagram. Thank you. This is making more sense. When everything is plugged in and the key is turned, when I press the pedal the wheels move a hair...it almost look as if they are locked.

Attached Images

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Sergio

The controller B- is the terminal connected to pack negative.

This diagram should be easier to read.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...car_ds_48v.jpg

If the solenoid does not engage, You will only get a small burst of power when the pedal is pressed and the controller capacitors discharge.

JaseKart

Thank you so much. I'm very excited to try this and I hope it works. One other question. About the pot micro switch....can I test this with a regular micro switch or would I be damaging the pot? If so is there any way I can test this with the current busted micro switch and jump something? Thanks again.

Sergio

It would appear the micro switch is working since the voltage at the solenoid small post is changing when you press the pedal.

You can by-pass that switch by just connecting the Blue with the Green/White wire at the Multi-Step Potentiometer box (Vglide looking thing).

Keep in mind that when you do that the solenoid will engage as soon as you turn the Key switch ON.

JaseKart

Oh my god dude it's worked! Thank you!!!!!! You rock. Now a question...the yellow wire from the OBC that's not connected to anything...what do I do with it? Will the cart still charge and shut off on its own? I do have a 48 v maintainer/charger/pusle that I can use but takes days to bring it to a full charge. How do you suggest I proceed with the charging process to keep my batteries healthy and not overcharge with the original charger